Joe:
Here's how the green gage fruit look like( I upload it on noncitrus forum propagation by mistake):

Silverhill T-budded to a matured Eureka lemon.

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Benny, you are an expert T-budder afterall!

The greatest advantage of T-budding (or chip budding) over TWG or bark graft or cleft graft is that you can select the orientation of the bud with respect to the grafted branch. Of course, there is also that you use only a minimal amount of propagating material, a single or a couple of buds would often be enough to add a new variety.

No, I would not call myself an expert on T-budding, not by a long shot.
But thanks for a nice compliment.
But I have good news. I have at least 2 Sarawak Pomellos that was successful and guess what? T-budding to my other pomellos and Oroblanco. It is just too small to take pictures right now but the T-buds are very green and something else is trying to sprout there. Could be either a thorn or bud or flower or any of the three. It looked like the beginning of a thorn. Very sharp.

Hi Benny. You don't worry that the Eureka is not very cold hardy & that if you get a bad freeze it could kill the tree & all the scions ? The Satsuma I would bud to sour orange or trifoliata, but lemon ?

Benny's yard is maritime buffered during the winter. It seldom goes below 26 deg F in their area.

I on the other hand, more inland than where he is, my Eurekas can take a 22 deg F each winter with minimal damage due to the gradual cooling and adequate hardening process. So there is really not much of a concern.

We have several grapefruits and pummelos too, even if they are less cold hardy than the Eureka lemons.

And besides, Benny always protects his plants during the winter and he has growth even at that time because of his over protective nature, LOL.

Laaz:
Joe is correct. I am lucky to have a weather like this.
I can't remember when there is a 28 degrees here. There was once a 38 degrees last Winter but only for a brief hours. Not any of my citrus were affected. Even my bananas, not all of the leaves died even.
My Eureka is the least of my worry because iI think I planted that what 1986?
There was once I think a hard freeze that went below 28 degrees about 3 years ago but like Joe said, I had Christmas lights and a lot of clear plastics to cover my plants. But I don't remember my Eureka was affected by that.
Anyway, my worry is not having any high heat in my area so I can have a sweet oranges and pomellos. But I can live with that.
Thanks for your input.
Benny

A follow up:
I don't remember I lost any citrus trees from the freeze. A guava and banana tree perhaps but not citrus.
Benny

A Shasta gold at center. You are probably wondering what are those empty wine barrels for. Well I transferred my other plants to the ground that were planted there and I don't know now where to put them.

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My question is: should I leave them all alone or choose the most ruboust and eliminate the other three?

Depends really on how you want it to look. Often I leave them alone because I already imagined that they should take and would overpower the canopy space designated to them in much less time. That is why you see that sometimes I can turn half the canopy to a different variety in just one season, I do a lot of T-buds for varieties that I liked better, that is why I tend to use most buds, and even if some would fail, I would have added the new cultivar 100% of the time.

Shasta Gold at close up and moved to a different location. All pictures were taken on 5 2 06



Yosemite Gold. I had problem with yellowing of leaves last year with her but I think it recovered.




Joe’s clemenule.

As you will notice, none of them have fruits. I clipped all of them thinking that they should grow vegetative this year. Now I have nothing to show to you guys.
And I cut some branches from them so I can graft them to some of my other trees.

And thanks Joe for a fast response. I am going to leave them as is then.
Imagine all of that hard work (fun) and just eliminate them afterwards?
I like your response Joe.