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Citrus Bark Grafting Tutorial - the Real deal!
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Citrus Growers Forum Index du Forum -> Tutorials (Grafting and budding)
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JoeReal
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Joined: 16 Nov 2005
Posts: 4726
Location: Davis, California

Posted: Mon 16 Apr, 2007 4:38 am

These are my new blood oranges, bark grafted 3 weeks ago, and look how vigorous their sprouts already are. We had 70's and 50's for the last month, and these guys are very anxious. The T-bud would have been still asleep and it would just be time to force them. The bark grafts on the other hand are pushing out.

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JoeReal
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Joined: 16 Nov 2005
Posts: 4726
Location: Davis, California

Posted: Mon 16 Apr, 2007 4:40 am

This is Ruby blood orange that I bark grafted over the Cara-Cara branch. I just did the bark graft 4 weeks ago. That is in March, and already have very nice growth.

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JoeReal
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Joined: 16 Nov 2005
Posts: 4726
Location: Davis, California

Posted: Mon 16 Apr, 2007 4:41 am

Remember that this is my very first citrus bark graft. EZ's Kaffire lime bark grafted unto Rio Star grapefruit.

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JoeReal
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Joined: 16 Nov 2005
Posts: 4726
Location: Davis, California

Posted: Mon 16 Apr, 2007 4:42 am

Look at the Kaffir lime now, less than a year later, and it survived the arctic blast of 2007, with lowest temp of 20 deg F and almost a month of frosty and freezing nights.

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JoeReal
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Joined: 16 Nov 2005
Posts: 4726
Location: Davis, California

Posted: Mon 16 Apr, 2007 4:44 am

My 50-in-1 citrus tree is currentlya 57-in-1 citrus tree. Thanks to these volunteers that were bark grafted on the top canopy. These are cold hardy types, they are on the top and would serve as my natural frost blanket for the 57-n-1 citrus tree.

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JoeReal
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Joined: 16 Nov 2005
Posts: 4726
Location: Davis, California

Posted: Mon 16 Apr, 2007 4:45 am

And yes, before you move on to the next tree, don't forget to sterilize your pruning shears and grafting knives, also your hands. Rubbing alcohol is a good massager too.

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JoeReal
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Joined: 16 Nov 2005
Posts: 4726
Location: Davis, California

Posted: Mon 16 Apr, 2007 4:47 am

Because if you did not sterilize, your grafts could end up like these guys. They were eaten by sooty mold. Yes they took only to die a quick death, with the black traces left behind by the mold.



So it is good to sterilize. Helps prevent spread diseases too.
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Laaz
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Joined: 12 Nov 2005
Posts: 5657
Location: Dorchester County, South Carolina

Posted: Mon 16 Apr, 2007 8:46 am

Great post Joe. Thanks for the in-depth photo tutorial.

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valenciaguy
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Joined: 24 May 2006
Posts: 340
Location: Southern Ontario, Zone 6a

Posted: Mon 16 Apr, 2007 9:24 am

Joe did you leave a little bare spot around the buds on the scion so they can grow when ready, or did you completely cover the whole scion. If you did is it the dame for other fruit trees like apples, pears etc.

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JoeReal
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Joined: 16 Nov 2005
Posts: 4726
Location: Davis, California

Posted: Mon 16 Apr, 2007 11:04 am

valenciaguy wrote:
Joe did you leave a little bare spot around the buds on the scion so they can grow when ready, or did you completely cover the whole scion. If you did is it the dame for other fruit trees like apples, pears etc.


With parafilm tape, there is no need to leave any space, cover them completely, the same style for all other fruit types. The parafilm is so soft that the buds can grow through them, easily.

The only time I would leave a little bit space is if the citrus scionwood is so fresh that the leftover petioles are still attached. I wouldn't want to cover the petioles, so will have to wrap the scionwood as good as possible without including the leftover petioles. The leftover petioles will wither away and fall off and sometimes could rot away. You wouldn't want those rotting parts sealed inside.

The petioles that remain on the scionwood are intentionally left during citrus budwood collection for various good reasons. Among them is that it serves as a nice handle when holding the bud without touching the cut side when doing T or Chip budding. It also enhances take. But these fall off after some time when you are storing the budwood for a long time, and hen still very fresh budwood, they are firmly attached.
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JoeReal
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Joined: 16 Nov 2005
Posts: 4726
Location: Davis, California

Posted: Mon 16 Apr, 2007 11:05 am

Laaz wrote:
Great post Joe. Thanks for the in-depth photo tutorial.

You're welcome Laaz!
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bencelest
Citruholic
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Joined: 13 Nov 2005
Posts: 1596
Location: Salinas, California

Posted: Mon 16 Apr, 2007 12:13 pm

Awesome! All of it.
I constantly learn something new!
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JoeReal
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Joined: 16 Nov 2005
Posts: 4726
Location: Davis, California

Posted: Mon 16 Apr, 2007 12:18 pm

Thanks Benny! You already know that you can work faster with bark-grafting citruses, so there is absolutely no need to place the scionwood in a glass of water like for other dormant scionwood as in my other bark grafting demo.
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bencelest
Citruholic
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Joined: 13 Nov 2005
Posts: 1596
Location: Salinas, California

Posted: Mon 16 Apr, 2007 1:01 pm

Wonderful and thorough picture demo.
Oh, yes, I am a believer for Joe's bark graft method. All my plum cultivars are 100% sucess and possibly the persimmons had my scion remained fresh but somehow my wife adjusted the tempt colder and the scions frozen but most of them are swollen now.
Thankks Joe so much.
I saved all these pictures too.
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patrick
Citruholic
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Joined: 12 Aug 2006
Posts: 44
Location: PHOENIX

Posted: Mon 16 Apr, 2007 4:39 pm

Joe,
Thanks for the great article.
Right now the sap is flowing and the bark is slipping well on my trees in Arizona. Would this method work in fall when the bark isnt slipping as much? Can this graft be performed with success all year around?
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