Citrus Growers Forum Index Citrus Growers Forum

This is the read-only version of the Citrus Growers Forum.

Breaking news: the Citrus Growers Forum is reborn from its ashes!

Citrus Growers v2.0

How Low Did You GO in this freeze event?
Goto Previous  1, 2, 3
 
Citrus Growers Forum Index du Forum -> Citrus news
Author Message
Skeeter
Moderator
Moderator


Joined: 23 Jul 2006
Posts: 2218
Location: Pensacola, FL zone 9

Posted: Wed 09 Jan, 2008 12:57 pm

What a difference a week makes! Our overnight low was 68! We will get well into the 70s today. I sure hope the cold was enough stress to insure a good bloom. I sprayed the trees with salt peter yesterday to help support a good bloom. We will surely have at least a couple more cold waves come by and it always seems like the last cold comes around Easter--sometimes cold enough for frost, so I will keep the covers handy.

_________________
Skeet
Back to top
nospice
Citruholic
Citruholic


Joined: 05 Jun 2006
Posts: 43
Location: louisiana next to new orleans

Posted: Wed 09 Jan, 2008 6:59 pm

28 in new orleans
Back to top
Millet
Citruholic
Citruholic


Joined: 13 Nov 2005
Posts: 6656
Location: Colorado

Posted: Fri 11 Jan, 2008 12:32 am

........However the citrus are just the opposite-they have to be well watered to survive cold events-drought stress will just add to cold injury on them................

I was reading today in Walton Sinclair's book "The Grapefruit" and here is what it says in his chapter on freezes.

(l) Cooper et al. in studying the effects of drought on the dormancy and on the cold hardiness of citrus trees, showed that a 3 year old Meyer lemon tree could be protected from cold by maintaining drought conditions in the soil. The tree was not irrigated between November 12 and February 12 a period during which no rain occurred. ....using the tree-freezer technique, they found that the dry tree showed no injury until exposure to 26F for 3 hours.

(2) In the citrus growing districts of the United States, freezes usually occur in December, the preconditioning of the trees either by drought or by low temperatures during November is highly important in determining their cold-hardiness.

(3) Cooper et al reported on an experiment that occurred naturally in Texas during the 1949 freeze, showing the relationship between drought and cold hardiness. Many nurserymen had not irrigated their surplus stock for several months before the freeze. The nonirrigated nursery trees were all (100%) uninjured,, the irrigated trees in certain nurseries were uninjured, while the irrigated trees in other nurseries were severely injured.

This says that non hydrated citrus trees fared better that hydrated trees. What actually kills the tree in a freeze is that the water in the tree's cells freezes solid, which caused it to expand, thus kills the cells and the tree dies. I am not certain, but it seems to make sense that the less water in the tree at the time of the freeze the less internal ice expansion takes place and the fewer cells in the tree burst and are damaged or killed. ????????? I don't know as in Colorado we never have a problem with freezes unless the greenhouse heating system fails. Comments appreciated. - Millet
Back to top
Davidmac
Citruholic
Citruholic


Joined: 26 Oct 2007
Posts: 149
Location: Havana, Florida zone8b

Posted: Fri 11 Jan, 2008 1:00 am

Wow-that is fascinating Millet! Perhaps I should treat my citrus like my succulents after all Shocked I remember in one of Dr.Coultas's lectures back in 1977 in my Citrus Culture class he told us that citrus should not be in any enviromental stress during a freeze to lessen cold injury-we were told that it is important to irrigate in the winter just as we do during Florida's dry springtime.I pulled down my old textbook ( Citrus Growing in Florida-Ziegler and Wolfe-University of Florida Press)-and found the statement on page 90-"However, a prolonged drought may put trees in condition of water deficiency which renders them more subject to cold injury than trees with adequate moisture content."However the research you cited refutes this conventional wisdom-and actually makes some sense- perhaps there is a limit to how dry you want to go-perhaps Dr.Manners can give us some additional wisdom.This is very,very interesting Shocked

_________________
Back to top
Millet
Citruholic
Citruholic


Joined: 13 Nov 2005
Posts: 6656
Location: Colorado

Posted: Fri 11 Jan, 2008 2:25 am

Now this is very interesting. There must be two books with the very same title. I have the book "Citrus Growing In Florida" published by the University of Florida Press, but the authors are Larry Jackson & Frederick Davies, and your quotation does not appear on page 90. However, concerning cold hardiness, it does say all conditions that promotes a tree to be in a growing condition should be avoided. My book says it is the 4th edition. I wonder if that makes any difference. - Millet
Back to top
A.T. Hagan
Moderator
Moderator


Joined: 14 Dec 2005
Posts: 898
Location: Gainesville, Florida, United States, Earth - Sol III

Posted: Fri 11 Jan, 2008 11:06 am

If he's willing to give an opinion I'd like to hear from Dr. Manners as well. I gave my whole grove a good watering before the freeze because I thought it was best not to have them go into sub-freezing temperatures while water stressed myself.

.....Alan.
Back to top
Skeeter
Moderator
Moderator


Joined: 23 Jul 2006
Posts: 2218
Location: Pensacola, FL zone 9

Posted: Fri 11 Jan, 2008 12:03 pm

I certainly am not an expert here, but based on my knowledge of Chemistry and Physics, there may be two competing processes at work.

One factor I have recently read that makes the tree less susceptible to cold damage is that wet soil retains more heat and therefore can reradiate more heat at night.

I am guessing, but another factor that may make the tree more susceptible and is related to the internal freezing Millet mentioned is that in a drought state, the internal liquids may have a lower freezing point due to higher solids. Maybe Dr. Manners can add to that.

_________________
Skeet
Back to top
Davidmac
Citruholic
Citruholic


Joined: 26 Oct 2007
Posts: 149
Location: Havana, Florida zone8b

Posted: Fri 11 Jan, 2008 12:24 pm

Quote:
My book says it is the 4th edition. I wonder if that makes any difference. - Millet
Yes-the authors of mine are Lois W. Ziegler and Herbert S.Wolfe- it simply states Revised Edition-1975.
SB369.2.F6Z53 1975 ISBN 0-8130-0488-8 for whatever that is worth- oddly through the years I have loaned out a number of my textbooks that were never returned to me-I have lost my Plant Pathology, Bacteriology, Plant Physiology and Plant Propagation (Hartman and Kester)textbooks-but have managed to keep my Citrus Growing in Florida-perhaps my choice of living up in the shadow of Georgia instead of imperial Polk County kept it in my library Very Happy

_________________
Back to top
JoeReal
Site Admin
Site Admin


Joined: 16 Nov 2005
Posts: 4726
Location: Davis, California

Posted: Fri 11 Jan, 2008 1:15 pm

Skeeter wrote:
I certainly am not an expert here, but based on my knowledge of Chemistry and Physics, there may be two competing processes at work.

One factor I have recently read that makes the tree less susceptible to cold damage is that wet soil retains more heat and therefore can reradiate more heat at night.

I am guessing, but another factor that may make the tree more susceptible and is related to the internal freezing Millet mentioned is that in a drought state, the internal liquids may have a lower freezing point due to higher solids. Maybe Dr. Manners can add to that.


There are many factors at work. Each of them have a different context. One of the confusing context would be the temperature range.

For example, if the temperature is hovering slightly above freezing, chilling injury during a bright sunshine but chilly morning can occur if the citrus plants were not hardened slowly. In the early mornings up to sunrise, frost can form on the topmost leaves of the canopy even if air temperature is well above freezing bringing the actual temperature on those leaves to below freezing and are being damaged cellularly. Frost formation is a result of the leaves losing radiant energy and the still air is not fast enough to warm up the leaves to compensate for the black body radiation losses. Any moisture gets condensed and then forms ice on the leaf surfaces.

Another example, if the temperature range is just slightly below freezing, application of water will work wonders, as is often the case for subtropical climates like California and cold parts of Florida. This is because water has high heat capacity, and sometimes a few inches of application will provide enough heat energy content from the water to bring the temperature a couple of degrees higher, preventing citruses from freezing.

Those above two temperature regimes, from slightly above, frosty conditions and slightly below freezing are where some citrus belts are located in the country. And that is why you would see different techniques. Through time, it could be colder than the average and thus the context of protection should be adjusted. That is also the reason why I keep using different techniques depending upon the temperature range. Each technique would have appropriate resource cost to me, and I would the appropriate one that can do the job at the time at the least resource (mostly time) cost to me.

But when it gets well below freezing, application of water can become detrimental as now the ground would be frozen, and application of water could damage everything at the cellular level, but now it would depend what the plant's survival mechanisms are and could vary amongst various cultivars. One of those would be solute concentrations. Usually, slow growing evergreens would have very high solute concentrations and they are able to survive temperature well below freezing. Remember that the slow growing flying dragon have good tolerances for cold and I suspect that its solute concentration at the cold winter time is relatively higher than other cultivars. Thus it can be argued that plants that are slightly dessicated have better chances of survival because their solute concentrations have been increased from the controlled drying process, as long as the dessication doesn't kill them completely. This adaptation to cold temperature has often the same mechanism as drought tolerance. Plants with higher solute in their cells have better chances of surviving drought periods because they can retain water. The downside by retaining water using high solute concentration is that there is very slow nutrient turn-over and slow water utilization, thus the plants are very slow growing.

Yet, there are some good techniques that are seldom utilized by those who understood different properties of water. Water in the form of fluffy snow can become an insulation, and to certain extent, well formed ice over an object can keep the core temperature just slightly below freezing, and if the ice is thick enough, it keeps the cold out. This insulating property of ice and snow have been used in building igloos and ice castle hotels. There are very few citrus growers under extreme freak weather conditions have been able to successfully utilize such insulating properties of frozen water, IIRC from the agricultural Engineering magazines that I used to read way back in College, some 30 or more years ago.

But still lower temperature when even the citruses with highest solute content will freeze, there are those mechanisms similar to cold hardy deciduous trees. The way those cells are frozen, allows them to thaw slowly without damage. I think only the extreme inedible citruses or their relatives are able to do this.
Back to top
Skeeter
Moderator
Moderator


Joined: 23 Jul 2006
Posts: 2218
Location: Pensacola, FL zone 9

Posted: Fri 11 Jan, 2008 2:15 pm

Joe, everything you said makes sense to me based on what I know. One thing I might add so that others may understand better is the process of protection by ice formation.

It is often said that ice insulates the tree keeping the trunk at or below freezing. I don't think ice is a great insulator (snow is due to the air in it). What happens when water is sprayed on the tree during temps below freezing is that the water gives up heat (1 cal/gram until it reaches the freezing point). When it actually freezes each gram of water gives up 80 cal of heat-- the opposite of the process of making ice cream in a churn where by adding salt and causing the ice to melt it and has to gain 80 cal/gram to melt.

This process is offset to a certain extent by evaporation during the spray application which takes away almost 600 cal/gram, fortunately vapor pressure is not that high at temps near freezing so not too much water evaporates. This process is also affected by humidity.

The point is that if one puts a nice coat of ice on the tree and then stops applying water, the ice temp may drop well below freezing, although by having added mass it will mean that more heat has to be removed to lower the tree temp than would be otherwise.

The protection temp from spraying water is also dependent on the rate of water flow. The seminar I recently went to in Fairhope suggested rates between 10 to 40 ga/hr and felt that the higher rate would protect trees to near single digits.

_________________
Skeet
Back to top
gregn
Citruholic
Citruholic


Joined: 15 Oct 2006
Posts: 236
Location: North Vancouver, BC, Canada

Posted: Fri 11 Jan, 2008 4:57 pm

Quote:
Yet, there are some good techniques that are seldom utilized by those who understood different properties of water. Water in the form of fluffy snow can become an insulation, and to certain extent, well formed ice over an object can keep the core temperature just slightly below freezing, and if the ice is thick enough, it keeps the cold out. This insulating property of ice and snow have been used in building igloos and ice castle hotels. There are very few citrus growers under extreme freak weather conditions have been able to successfully utilize such insulating properties of frozen water,


Joe, as a note, I had a 8" - 10 degree Tangerine (clemYuz2.2) which survived 10f (-12c) with only a milk crate covered in a plastic bag then covered in a pile snow that I had cleared from my driveway. (Nov 06). There was no supplementary heat source. - Thank goodness we don't get events like that often![/quote]

_________________
Gregn, citrus enthusiast. North Vancouver Canada. USDA zone 8. I grow In-ground citrus, Palms and bananas. Also have container citrus
Back to top
Laaz
Site Owner
Site Owner


Joined: 12 Nov 2005
Posts: 5679
Location: Dorchester County, South Carolina

Posted: Fri 25 Jan, 2008 10:19 am

Once again they predicted 26 F & we only hit 30 F...

_________________
Wal-Mart a great place to buy cheap plastic crap ! http://walmartwatch.com/ ...

Back to top
Ned
Citrus Guru
Citrus Guru


Joined: 14 Nov 2005
Posts: 999
Location: Port Royal, SC (Zone 8b)

Posted: Fri 25 Jan, 2008 11:24 am

30 degrees here this morning. For what it is worth, the edition of Citrus Growing in Florida offered now is the 4th. So it would appear that there have been four editions over the years.

Ned
Back to top
gregn
Citruholic
Citruholic


Joined: 15 Oct 2006
Posts: 236
Location: North Vancouver, BC, Canada

Posted: Tue 29 Jan, 2008 8:10 pm

28f DEGREES THIS MORNING and snow started to fall last night around 10pm
forecasters called for 2 to 4 inches and turning to rain by mid morning ... it is now 2 pm and still snowing at 32f ( 8 inches later.... Blah) My 10 degree tangerine is under a pile of snow... I keep going out and shaking the snow off my palms Smile

Greg

_________________
Gregn, citrus enthusiast. North Vancouver Canada. USDA zone 8. I grow In-ground citrus, Palms and bananas. Also have container citrus
Back to top
Citrus Growers Forum Index du Forum -> Citrus news
Goto Previous  1, 2, 3
Page 3 of 3
Informations
Qui est en ligne ? Our users have posted a total of 66068 messages
We have 3235 registered members on this websites
Most users ever online was 70 on Tue 30 Oct, 2012 10:12 am

Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group