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Patty_in_wisc Citrus Angel
Joined: 15 Nov 2005 Posts: 1842 Location: zone 5 Milwaukee, Wi
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Posted: Sat 06 Jan, 2007 12:20 am |
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Hi Bengy, I did whip & tongue graft. Just make sure the scion is same size diameter as your seedling. See the 2 buds growing at top?
Are you going to graft onto the mature tree & the seedling? _________________ Patty
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Bengy
Joined: 24 Sep 2006 Posts: 10 Location: Australia
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Posted: Sun 07 Jan, 2007 2:01 pm |
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Hi ! Patty, that's a nice looking avocado. I would like to graft some type B's avocs onto my 8 yrs old hass. I got a wurtz seedling but it's still too young to collect scion woods from it as it's not even a pencil size in diameter yet neither a ruler in height yet, but i have a 2 yrs old (or less) grafted bacon (rootstcok sharwill) w/c I've bought not long ago. Which type of graft will do best for matured avoc if scions will be taken from my seedlings? |
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Patty_in_wisc Citrus Angel
Joined: 15 Nov 2005 Posts: 1842 Location: zone 5 Milwaukee, Wi
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Posted: Tue 16 Jan, 2007 2:00 am |
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Bengy, you don't graft seedlings onto a mature tree! The scion should be taken from a mature, fruiting tree. Seedlings will take (as Malcolm Manners said on page 2) 7 years or more to fruit. It will take as long to fruit if grafted onto another stock! The graft that I showed, scion was taken from a mature fruiting tree, & grafted onto a seedling.
As I said, I did whip & tongue graft, but cleft will work too.
Why don't you take scion/budwood from your mature tree & graft onto your seedlings? _________________ Patty
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Bengy
Joined: 24 Sep 2006 Posts: 10 Location: Australia
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Posted: Sun 21 Jan, 2007 12:16 pm |
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Hi! Patty, thanks again for your explanation about avoc's grafting, now i understand it a bit better....I'll graft seedlings onto seedlings just for experiment...Like wurtz onto hass rootstock. It's ok w/ me if my seedlings will take 7 or more yrs to bear fruits, as i already have an 8 yrs old hass & a bacon as pollinator....Your advice is deeply appreciated. |
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Bengy
Joined: 24 Sep 2006 Posts: 10 Location: Australia
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Posted: Tue 23 Jan, 2007 1:08 pm |
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Hi! Patty, this is how my hass avoc looks like & that little one in the front is a 2 yrs old bacon w/c i've bought not long ago.
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Bengy
Joined: 24 Sep 2006 Posts: 10 Location: Australia
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Posted: Tue 23 Jan, 2007 1:13 pm |
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why it doesn't work?...will try again the other way
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Patty_in_wisc Citrus Angel
Joined: 15 Nov 2005 Posts: 1842 Location: zone 5 Milwaukee, Wi
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Posted: Tue 23 Jan, 2007 7:32 pm |
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Nice pic Bengy, & those are healthy looking. Is the one in back the 8 yr old Haas - growing inground? Yeah, practicing on little ones is a good idea. Try grafting Haas to your bacon? Cut a branch leaving about 4 buds & after your graft, snip top of bud off leaving 2-3 buds & wrap in plastic. Joe has some directions in the graft forum. Mine did well with whip & tongue ...was my first Avo graft too!
Link to whip & tongue graft (pics)
http://members.fortunecity.com/pjsauber/WhipTongue.htm# _________________ Patty
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Persea
Joined: 23 Jan 2007 Posts: 7
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Posted: Wed 24 Jan, 2007 9:53 pm |
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hey everyone...
I'm new here.... and a huge avocado tree lover from Paris France (which might be a beautiful city but whcih doesn't make it easy to see avocado trees)...
Anyway, nice to see a discussion that goes beyond the "how to grow an avocado tree from a pit" question!
I've tried grafting my seedlings and if I could do it I'm sure anyone can... chip budding seems to give really good results with me plus you get to do mseveral graft with little material!
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Persea
Joined: 23 Jan 2007 Posts: 7
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Posted: Wed 24 Jan, 2007 10:03 pm |
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Bengy wrote: | why it doesn't work?...will try again the other way |
You need to make sure both the rootstock and the scion are the same diameter so the cambium of both are in close contact, cambium being the green outline you see right underneath the cork : it's the living tissue responsible for healing and and growing new cells.
Also make sure the tape you tie the graft with is not too tight but tight enough hold the rootstock and scion close together.
Make sur no air or water comes through it as air will dessicate and water prevent healing of the wound! |
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Patty_in_wisc Citrus Angel
Joined: 15 Nov 2005 Posts: 1842 Location: zone 5 Milwaukee, Wi
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Posted: Thu 25 Jan, 2007 4:41 am |
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Hello & welcome Persea!!! Thanks for the demo pics of Chip Budding. I will try that sometime. I think it's wise to tie plastic wrap loosely around tape, & tied to top & bottom of bud to keep from rain & hold moisture in... do you? To tell the truth, I did not know what Chip budding was --- only T budding. Hope to see you around more Thanks again. _________________ Patty
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Persea
Joined: 23 Jan 2007 Posts: 7
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Posted: Thu 25 Jan, 2007 8:02 pm |
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Hi Patty and thanx for the warm welcome!!
Actually you should tie the tape starting from bottom to top so that each layer kinda covers the top of the previous one and stops rain from been able to get in kind of like a tile roof.
I do use plastic wrap with wedge grafting to moist inside, I don't use it for chip budding as the tape should do!!
But unlike what's describe and the picture that I posted you actually need to cover the bud when chip bud grafting for at least 2 weeks. That's about when you should know whether your graft is succesful or not.
Also you may wanna keep keep the petiole stub to use as a test : if after 2 weeks it falls down when you hardly touch it and the wound remains green then you may presume it's successful. If it's still tightly holding onto the chip it's not a good sign.
I also found this video which could be helpful... do not bother with what's said a the begining though...
http://www.songonline.ca/video/Grafting-ChipBud.mov |
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JoeReal Site Admin
Joined: 16 Nov 2005 Posts: 4726 Location: Davis, California
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Posted: Thu 25 Jan, 2007 8:13 pm |
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Based on my experiences, chip budding has a lot lower percentage success rates than T-budding especially for citruses and avocadoes. When grafting apples, pears they are about the same success rate. |
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Persea
Joined: 23 Jan 2007 Posts: 7
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Posted: Thu 25 Jan, 2007 10:05 pm |
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Really??
I know T budding will work great on Citrus but based on what I've read in an avocado grower's book T budding is a bad choice because the bud is kinda slow to push out and/or will need several manipulations before it does!
Most of the chip budding I've tried have been successful and the wound have healed 2 weeks after the procedure, the bud starting to push out soon after...
Hey you never know til you've given it a try I guess I should try T budding too on my new seedlings... |
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valenciaguy Citruholic
Joined: 24 May 2006 Posts: 340 Location: Southern Ontario, Zone 6a
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Posted: Thu 25 Jan, 2007 10:58 pm |
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I just know that Chip budding is good for peaches, plums apricots aswell, which I am going to be doing some grafts come summer I am very excited. For success rates it must just be different environmental factors grafting seems to have so many factors that can affect it so certain people do better with certain grafts. |
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JoeReal Site Admin
Joined: 16 Nov 2005 Posts: 4726 Location: Davis, California
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Posted: Thu 25 Jan, 2007 11:01 pm |
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Persea wrote: | Really??
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Yes, you might have missed it. Proof is in the very first few pics of this thread. My T-buds are extremo growing. Only 1/3 of the avocado chip buds have ever succeeded. There is only one avocado T-bud that failed on me. I do more than 1,500 grafts each year on various plants, various places, and various techniques, except for the experimental ones, the success rates are more than 99% for T-buds, Bark-grafts, cleft grafts, tongue and whip, side veneer (similar to chip budding but using very long sections). This year I am slowing down on my grafting.
So really is quantifiable for me. But there could be something else wrong with my chip budding avocadoes, and could be due poor scionwood material and poor timing of grafts. Will try it again some time, but that would be far-off in this grafting season. I am starting right now with pomes, doing dormant grafting. |
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