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Avocado Grafting
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JoeReal
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Joined: 16 Nov 2005
Posts: 4726
Location: Davis, California

Posted: Sun 04 Jun, 2006 1:20 pm

Practically all techniques used on citruses will work on avocadoes. Most grafters complain that avocado grafting are one with the highest failures. I used to complain about persimmons as the highest failure until I knew what worked best for them. And for avocadoes, it can be done also and here's a summarized secret that I am willing to share.

The secret starts with scionwood collection. The scionwood should be green, near the terminal of the branch, select those that have the youngest but mature full sized leaves, and where these are attached, they make good scionwood material. Do not collect scionwood deeper into the canopy, but near the outside of the canopy, cut out all the blooms from that scionwood and discard those, the stems between the bloom and where the mature leaves are attached are very good materials.

Do T-budding like you would a citrus, but you have to completely cover the grafted bud with parafilm tape, then tighten with rubber band wrap except on the pimple of the bud, then a layer of vinyl tape over the rubber band. Do not remove the wrapping until after 6 months or the bud will dry out. force the bud next year if you do the budding during or after summer.

When doing cleft graft, you have to cover the entire scionwood with parafilm. Then a sandwhich bag wrap over the graft and the union, tighten with rubber band. The destination branch should be the same property as the scionwood branch, meaning that it should be on the terminal, and where the mature leaves starts. After the sandwhich bag wrap, place aluminum foil over it and secure lightly with rubber band. Do not take out the wrapper for 2 months. Never be in a hurry to take off the wrappings.
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JoeReal
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Posted: Sun 04 Jun, 2006 1:24 pm

When done with the ordinary bark or cleft graft in the places suggested earlier, simply cover with sandwhich bag and zip up the bag, allowing some little gap around the stem for passive air flow.

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JoeReal
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Joined: 16 Nov 2005
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Location: Davis, California

Posted: Sun 04 Jun, 2006 1:25 pm

Fold the bag loosely, tie it also with grafting tape to hold the shape, and then place aluminum foil over it if you expose the plant to direct sunlight. In my case, this is under a tree and is shaded from 11 am till sunset, so no need to put aluminum foil.

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JoeReal
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Location: Davis, California

Posted: Sun 04 Jun, 2006 1:27 pm

Voila!

The key is to let the bag stay longer. Never be tempted to take off the bag quickly. A couple of months should do it. The bag on this one will be taken off within 2 weeks. Meanwhile, tear some small holes on the bag when growth has started.

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JoeReal
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Location: Davis, California

Posted: Sun 04 Jun, 2006 1:29 pm

Works with T-budding also. In this case, I scored (cut carefully with knife) the parafilm which was used to cover the bud completely. This is to assist in sprouting of the bud, just a little tear on the film directly over the pimple of the bud to allow it to grow. Do the scoring after a month.

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JoeReal
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Joined: 16 Nov 2005
Posts: 4726
Location: Davis, California

Posted: Sun 04 Jun, 2006 1:32 pm

Here's a very slow growing one, after 2 months in the bag, it started to grow, but I have taken off the bag completely and I am confident that this will make it successfully. If I had not used a ziploc sandwhich bag, this may have shriveled and die already at this time, something that is experienced even by the most avid citrus grafters.


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JoeReal
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Joined: 16 Nov 2005
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Location: Davis, California

Posted: Sun 04 Jun, 2006 1:35 pm

Avocado grafting is really not that hard. Just follow my general secrets in the first post of this thread, and then you can use ziploc sandwhich bag to ensure higher survival and success rates.

Perhaps my next project would be a dozen avocadoes in one tree. But then I really have not big space remaining in my yard. Something may have to go if I will get hooked to avocadoes. I might get rid of one of those multi-grafted peaches.
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bencelest
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Joined: 13 Nov 2005
Posts: 1596
Location: Salinas, California

Posted: Sun 04 Jun, 2006 1:42 pm

Thank you Joe. I am saving this for future reference .
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Malcolm_Manners
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Joined: 13 Nov 2005
Posts: 676
Location: Lakeland Florida

Posted: Mon 10 Jul, 2006 12:04 am

I've never grafted avocado in California or other dry-air areas, so perhaps that's what makes them challenging in such climates. But I have grafted thousands of them in Florida, where they have to be the very easiest of all plant species to graft. Nearly anyone can learn in a few minutes, to get 95% or better success. So for anyone in a humid climate, here's how we do them:

1. Any time of year works, but cooler weather in the fall is best. November is the favorite month among commercial grafters.
2. Rootstocks are young (6-8 weeks) seedlings, with the stems still red or pink in color.
3. Scions are dormant twigs, similar in diameter to the rootstock stems. Make them about 3" long.
4. Use a cleft graft, with the cleft/wedge about half the length of the scion.
5. Wrap with grafting rubber (or just a wide rubber band), covering all of the wound, but leaving the top inch or so of the scion exposed.
6. Place the plant in light shade. It will heal and begin growth in about 4-5 weeks. Normally, the rubber will rot and fall off on its own, but if it's still there in 6-8 weeks, remove it.
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Westwood
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Joined: 31 Jan 2006
Posts: 454
Location: Oregon

Posted: Tue 11 Jul, 2006 7:28 pm

Joe I have started 7 different seeds of avacodo... where can i buy the scion woods ?
right now i just have roots shooting down from the seeds so im way ahead of grafting .. also what is the best age to graft ? Tammy

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JoeReal
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Joined: 16 Nov 2005
Posts: 4726
Location: Davis, California

Posted: Tue 11 Jul, 2006 7:35 pm

When seedling stems are about as big as pencil diameter, then that's the best and the easiest time to graft. Just contact me when you're ready to graft, and perhaps can send you budwoods just for the postage and packing materials.
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Westwood
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Joined: 31 Jan 2006
Posts: 454
Location: Oregon

Posted: Wed 26 Jul, 2006 12:16 pm

here they are OK i know funny how some are BIG rooted with pin points for stalks LOL while the big one has many roots looking good .

PIC http://img68.imageshack.us/img68/5868/dscf0137nv8.jpg.
I grew them in a container that carried 4 lbs of Grapes with big holes all around its top and bottom so i had to also use paper towels .

Never have i gotted seeds to start with water this easily in fact i did just as many with water and they all Died. Tammy

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Patty_in_wisc
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Joined: 15 Nov 2005
Posts: 1842
Location: zone 5 Milwaukee, Wi

Posted: Thu 27 Jul, 2006 12:38 pm

Tammy, I got no pics.

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Westwood
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Joined: 31 Jan 2006
Posts: 454
Location: Oregon

Posted: Fri 28 Jul, 2006 1:07 am

Thanks Patty Im fixing it i moved all my pictures to a New folder so i could Make a dvd out of them ..

Im kinda doing a thing with the yard to see how much its changed .

first pics have glass garbage and Trash all overthem as well as ash ..
Now grins its better but lots of work to be done. Pics Fixed now Tammy

http://img488.imageshack.us/img488/4616/dscf0138rl3.jpg

Starter Container
http://img488.imageshack.us/img488/6533/dscf0141ya7.jpg

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If it breaths and loves life Im a Friend..

If it Breaths and Hurts life .. thats the end..
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Patty_in_wisc
Citrus Angel


Joined: 15 Nov 2005
Posts: 1842
Location: zone 5 Milwaukee, Wi

Posted: Fri 28 Jul, 2006 3:31 am

Hey Joe, I have 2 avocado trees. One is Reed (or Florida) 24" high & a haas 20" high (from soil). Both are 1/4" diam. They are growing real well.. started them in water last Dec or Jan.
Could I have some budwood to try onto my haas? I never got budwood before! If you still have some, pm me your addy & how much to send, & I'll pm you my addy. How exciting!
There is no branching yet..just main stem. Could I graft more than one variety on that main trunk? Thanks

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Patty
I drink wine to make other people more interesting Wink
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