General Grafting Guidelines
you can graft quinces, pears and apples right now, they can be dormant grafted. You can graft apples and pears all the way into spring blooms and even after. But if you want to save time and not doing anything, do the quinces, pears and apples whenever you have time to leave you free to graft others that are more timing sensitive, especially the persimmons.
Followed by plums and apricots in late winter.
When you graft apricots, you will have to wait that there is no rain during the last three days before and no rains in the forecast a week after the graft as apricot grafts are prone to diseases. It helps to spray fungicides like copper sulfate or kocide or other more potent fungicides (sold to licensed applicators only). Graft about a couple of days later after applying fungicides.
This is then followed by Cherries when you see that the buds are swelling.
Come spring when you see the pink color breaking out of the peaches, that is the time to graft them. Graft peaches from pink bud stage to until they push out the leaves. When their leaves have pushed out, it would be less successful, but still you can do it if you insist, you will just have to try more grafts to increase chances of take later in the season.
The last to be grafted among your dormant scionwood would be the persimmons. Wait until you see green leaf buds and wait for one of them to open in the destination branch. Then do the bark grafting. It helps if you do a lot of grafting on one tree at the same time so that it will boost the growth of all the grafts, otherwise, it will boost the growth of other branches rather than your graft.
After the dormant scionwood, it would be loquats, citruses and avocadoes T-budding or bark grafting.
