Dauben, I can't tell you if the PWT is lowered by using a 'wick' but I can tell you that for sure it will pull additional water from the pot that normally would stay in the pot.

I did an experiment 2 summers ago after hearing about wicking. I took a plant that had been watered the day before (so drainage had stopped) and stuck a cloth wick (made from an old rag) in one of the holes under the pot. The pot was elevated on those 'L' shaped pot stands, the wick was inserted about 2 inches into the medium and within seconds water started to drain from the pot. I was quite surprised by how much water actually drained after a few hours.

The wick was about 6 inches long by 1 inch wide, as well the other end was touching concrete which seemed to pull water away from the wick

What effect this has on the PWT I can't answer.

I'm going to be doing some repotting soon, and want to follow 'best practices'. Some of my trees are getting bigger and represent a challenge to move around. Every fall, they go into the green house. Every spring, they come out. As I write, moving the plants is the biggest concern.

To be blunt, I would like these 4' trees to be 6' trees. If they got that big, how would I move them?

Additionally, if they get any bigger how does one pull off repotting?

Finally, since I often hear that one should fertilize to the 'drip' line, it seems that there should be some relationship between pot width and the tree's drip line. Thus, pot geometry seems an issue.

Thanks!

Mark

There is a hard and fast rule in the nursery industry - At least once each year, every plant in every container should be transplanted. This means either transplant into a larger container, or remove the tree from the present container, prune the roots and and prune the foliage to balance, then replace the tree back into the original container and fill the space with new grow medium. You can put the container on rollers, or purchase a hand dolly to move the tree easier. If you do nothing, (leave the tree in the same container) the tree growth will stop, and soon decline. - Millet

Hi Millet,

>There is a hard and fast rule in the nursery industry - At least once
>each year, every plant in every container should be transplanted.

That's fine. I guess I've got 10 plants to repot rather than 5.

>You can put the container on rollers, or purchase a hand dolly
> to move the tree easier.

I'm ready for the dolly

The question of ideal pot geometry remains, though. I guess that you are saying that geometry is unimportant if you repot every year.

> prune the foliage to balance, ...

Any advice on this? The few times I've pruned a citrus tree, I feel like a butcher waving a meat cleaver.

Mark

would having a pot that is tall solve the problem of Perched Water Table? or at least drop it to a point that it is not a problem. what would be the ideal height of a pot?

The size of the container does not effect the perched water table. In a higher, shorter, wider or narrower container the perched water table remains the same. Therefore, a higher container has more growing room above the perched water table than does a short container. - Millet

I did an experiment with using wicks on two of my citrus trees in containers. I put 5 wicks in one and 1 wick in the other. Since then, I've noticed that the container with 5 wicks consistently appears to drain more. My only problem is my experiment is that I didn't have a control with no wicks. Bad scientist!!

Phillip