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citrusgalore Citruholic

Joined: 21 Dec 2008 Posts: 131 Location: Columbia, SC zone 8b
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Posted: Thu 04 Feb, 2010 2:47 am |
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I've noticed that the smaller nucellar seedlings are more branched than the hybrid seedlings which are much taller. Can I, with confidence, then sort my seedlings that will be true Sunburst from the hybrids which will be a new variety?
Theoretically speaking, it would be a new cultivar that could be registered if it was noteworthy. Am I correct in this thinking? _________________ A small piece of land with fruit trees and a garden allows one to live as kings and queens in times of trouble. |
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Malcolm_Manners Citrus Guru

Joined: 13 Nov 2005 Posts: 676 Location: Lakeland Florida
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Posted: Thu 04 Feb, 2010 10:16 am |
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For rootstocks on commercial nurseries, that's exactly what they do -- they grow the seedlings in a row or on a greenhouse bench, so they can look at a lot of them at once. The notably taller ones (known as "bulls") and the notably shorter ones ("runts") as well as any with obviously different leaves, are pulled up and discarded. The uniform seedlings that remain are the nucellar seedlings that they'll use for budding. Of course there is a possibility that a hybrid would look so much like the nucellars that it would get missed, but at least this method rogues out most of the hybrids.
Yes, your hybrids could provide the next great variety to change the citrus world. But the probability is quite small. Rather like winning the state lottery I suppose. |
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citrusgalore Citruholic

Joined: 21 Dec 2008 Posts: 131 Location: Columbia, SC zone 8b
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Posted: Sat 06 Feb, 2010 2:25 am |
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Since questions come up from time to time about the nucellar and zygotic seedlings, I thought I would post a couple of pictures that show both for contrast.
Side by side:
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/2110/dsc00246xh.jpg
Close up of leaf detail for hybrid:
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/9797/dsc00252i.jpg
Closeup of leaf detail for nucellar:
http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/9166/dsc00256x.jpg
The seeds of these seedlings were planted on the same day from the same fruit. Grown under the same conditions, watered and fertilized the same, and it is is easy to see the differences in them. The nucellar seedling's nodes are wide (1 to 2 in. apart) and the hybrid's nodes are less than an inch apart. The nucellar's leaf surface is twice that of the hybrid. The nucellar's has grown straight and only one tiny branch has begun to form, even though it was pinched about 3 months ago. It put out another main leader and kept going up. The hybrid immediately branched and continues to do so. _________________ A small piece of land with fruit trees and a garden allows one to live as kings and queens in times of trouble. |
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Mark_T Citruholic


Joined: 30 Jun 2009 Posts: 757 Location: Gilbert,AZ
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Posted: Sat 06 Feb, 2010 3:25 am |
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What about multiple seedlings from the same seed?
I recently germinated a minneola tangelo and got two seedlings out it. Can I assume the larger one is a nucellar and the smaller a hybrid? |
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Millet Citruholic


Joined: 13 Nov 2005 Posts: 6656 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Sat 06 Feb, 2010 4:21 pm |
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The possibilities are, 1). The smaller seedling is the hybrid, 2). The smaller seedling is the nucellar, 3). the larger seedling is the hybrid 4) The larger seedling is the nucellar. - Millet (1,087-) |
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Sylvain Site Admin


Joined: 16 Nov 2007 Posts: 790 Location: Bergerac, France.
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Posted: Sat 06 Feb, 2010 5:06 pm |
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Just keep both! |
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Mark_T Citruholic


Joined: 30 Jun 2009 Posts: 757 Location: Gilbert,AZ
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Posted: Sat 06 Feb, 2010 6:12 pm |
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Millet wrote: | The possibilities are, 1). The smaller seedling is the hybrid, 2). The smaller seedling is the nucellar, 3). the larger seedling is the hybrid 4) The larger seedling is the nucellar. - Millet (1,087-) |
Well that clears it up.
On a side note do Flying Dragon seeds tend to produce multiple seedlings, this has been my experience with my first attempt at growing them? |
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Sylvain Site Admin


Joined: 16 Nov 2007 Posts: 790 Location: Bergerac, France.
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Posted: Sun 07 Feb, 2010 3:30 am |
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> The possibilities are, 1). The smaller seedling is the hybrid, 2). The smaller seedling is the nucellar, 3). the larger seedling is the hybrid 4) The larger seedling is the nucellar.
And don't forget this possibility:
5) The hybrid and the nucellar have the same size.
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ilyaC Citruholic


Joined: 04 Sep 2009 Posts: 276 Location: France, 40km South of Paris
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Posted: Sun 07 Feb, 2010 12:15 pm |
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Malcolm_Manners wrote: | The notably taller ones (known as "bulls") and the notably shorter ones ("runts") as well as any with obviously different leaves, are pulled up and discarded. |
What a pity that off-types and zygotics of citranges and citrumelos are being massively culled all over the world.
Imagine, how many valuable frost hardy citruses are being missed. Even if the chance to find such F2 plants is low, but multiplied by industry scale it is becoming almost certain.
This year I am doing the inverse that is done by industry.
I planted ~2000 citrumelo seeds and is keeping only mono embryonic seedlings. The rest is culled.
Up to now I observed 5% of such plants, some are runts, but some are interesting vigorous off-types. Next year I am going to select them for frost hardiness. _________________ Best regards,
Ilya |
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Skeeter Moderator

Joined: 23 Jul 2006 Posts: 2218 Location: Pensacola, FL zone 9
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Posted: Mon 08 Feb, 2010 12:17 pm |
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Best of luck to you--we can always use more cold hardy citrus. _________________ Skeet
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Millet Citruholic


Joined: 13 Nov 2005 Posts: 6656 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Mon 08 Feb, 2010 2:06 pm |
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The 2 or 3 year old grafted budwood remains juvenile, and must grow out its time before becoming mature, as if it was left alone as the original seedling. - Millet (1,077-) |
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TRI Citruholic

Joined: 13 Jan 2010 Posts: 399 Location: Homestead, FL Zone 10
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Posted: Wed 03 Mar, 2010 6:57 am |
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Do the seedlings grow straight up with no branching? Do satsuma seedlings have thorns? I am trying to germinate some seedlings in my new propagator that I bought from Amazon.com. So far there are no sprouts but it is only 6 days. I am also propagating some Meyer lemon cuttings and will report the results in a few weeks.
I am using peat pots for the rooting medium and the propagator is a dome with a platic tray and top with a heat mat under the tray. |
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citrusgalore Citruholic

Joined: 21 Dec 2008 Posts: 131 Location: Columbia, SC zone 8b
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Posted: Wed 03 Mar, 2010 9:56 pm |
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TRI,
The statistics for these Sunburst seedlings were this:
I planted 26 seeds
some germinated, some didn't
the final count was 39 viable seedling trees
they do eventually put on thorns, mine have a few coming out now
my seedlings were planted Nov 09
I cut them back at about 15 inches (to an outside bud) to get them to branch out
the taller larger leafed seedlings resisted branching, and continued to put up a central leader and no lateral branches; the few that did, the laterals grew an inch or so and then stopped.....just a week ago, I re-cut the nucellar seedlings to try to get some good laterals growing
the smaller leafed hybrid seedlings readily branched and pushed out lateral growth faster
I didn't use bottom heat. I do remember peeling the outer skin off and they came up very quickly, in about 3-5 days.
Hope this helps _________________ A small piece of land with fruit trees and a garden allows one to live as kings and queens in times of trouble. |
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Millet Citruholic


Joined: 13 Nov 2005 Posts: 6656 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Thu 04 Mar, 2010 1:42 am |
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Here is my experience. I have grown a great number of seedling trees. I almost never cut the top, because I do not want to delay the time until maturity. In every case, every tree branched out. For tens of thousands of years, nature's method of growing citrus was, of course, through seed, which forever and always produced fully branched out trees. Generally, as with all trees started by seed, my seedling trees first grow in a up right pattern until approximately 2-1/2 to 3 feet, at which point they always begun to branch out. NOTE: Frequently new fast growing young trees develop weak trunks that must be staked for support. How nature avoids weak trunks and stems, is by the wind. The flicking back and forth of the tree against the pressure of the wind, produces firm strong trunks and stems. When the tree is two inches tall place the tree in the wind, or if the weather is still to cold, place the young tree in front of a fan. By doing so you will never have a tree that requires support. - Millet (1,051-) |
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citrusgalore Citruholic

Joined: 21 Dec 2008 Posts: 131 Location: Columbia, SC zone 8b
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Posted: Thu 04 Mar, 2010 9:20 pm |
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I wasn't aware that cutting the seedlings back would delay their maturing/fruit-bearing. In any event, I will do it again simply because I don't like one long leader coming out and laying on the ground. I haven't noticed them being in the sunshine and wind making any difference at all in the time needed to become more erect. I know that a few varieties have this 'weeping' habit and it comes naturally. Fortunately, the FD's stay erect and I don't cut them back anyway since they will be topped when forcing the buds.
Aesthetically speaking, I will continue to top my trees to get them to form up to produce a nicer looking tree.
I once purchased a grafted citrus with one long weepy branch that was almost on the ground, so much so, I was afraid that the trunk would twist off from the graft. It is still long and draping at the top though it has been staked over a year. It has yet to branch out! It is about four years old.
I don't have any claim to expound; this is just what I have observed from personal experience. _________________ A small piece of land with fruit trees and a garden allows one to live as kings and queens in times of trouble. |
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