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dauben Citruholic
Joined: 25 Nov 2006 Posts: 963 Location: Ramona, CA, Zone 9A
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Posted: Sun 16 Mar, 2008 3:07 am |
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Since this forum started me on the path to grafting my own trees, I started looking into good grafting knives. It appears that Tina knives are the best on the market from the research that I've done, but many of the models are between $50-$150. I found this website below that offers very resonable prices, but you have to buy three knives. I thought this forum might be a good place to get a group order going if there was any interest. I don't know anything about Timm Enterprises though. I didn't see anything on Dave's Garden
http://www.timmenterprises.com/specials/tina.htm
Phillip |
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Skeeter Moderator
Joined: 23 Jul 2006 Posts: 2218 Location: Pensacola, FL zone 9
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Posted: Sun 16 Mar, 2008 7:52 pm |
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I could get one of the 641L if you order. _________________ Skeet
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dauben Citruholic
Joined: 25 Nov 2006 Posts: 963 Location: Ramona, CA, Zone 9A
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Posted: Sun 16 Mar, 2008 8:30 pm |
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Skeeter wrote: | I could get one of the 641L if you order. |
Are you a lefty? One thing I just noticed on their website is that they say "wholesale". I will have to check to see if they are truely wholesale, or just a gimmick for "wholesale prices".
Phillip |
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Skeeter Moderator
Joined: 23 Jul 2006 Posts: 2218 Location: Pensacola, FL zone 9
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Posted: Mon 17 Mar, 2008 12:46 am |
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I am ambi, but I do most of my knife work with the left hand. I will be ready if you get an order. _________________ Skeet
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Skeeter Moderator
Joined: 23 Jul 2006 Posts: 2218 Location: Pensacola, FL zone 9
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Posted: Mon 17 Mar, 2008 11:32 am |
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Those are some awesome prices if we can get them-- the 641 model sells for over $100 on some sites. _________________ Skeet
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JoeReal Site Admin
Joined: 16 Nov 2005 Posts: 4726 Location: Davis, California
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Posted: Mon 17 Mar, 2008 12:07 pm |
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It says, we can combine various models to make up the minimum three required. I would like the $16.15 model 645F/9 for citrus budding. Costs almost the same as Victorinox budding knife. |
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dauben Citruholic
Joined: 25 Nov 2006 Posts: 963 Location: Ramona, CA, Zone 9A
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Posted: Mon 17 Mar, 2008 12:34 pm |
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I'll give 'em a call this morning.
Phillip |
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dauben Citruholic
Joined: 25 Nov 2006 Posts: 963 Location: Ramona, CA, Zone 9A
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Posted: Mon 17 Mar, 2008 3:17 pm |
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Joe/Skeet:
I placed the order. Joe I think I have your snail mail address, but you should probably send me a PM with it again. Skeet, I'll need the same from you. The lady mixed up some of the numbers, so I hope we get what we ordered. I think she got them straight the second time around. She said that the order would be shipped tomorrow.
Phillip |
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BabyBlue11371 Site Admin
Joined: 28 Nov 2005 Posts: 830 Location: SE Kansas
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Posted: Sat 10 Jan, 2009 4:55 am |
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I was wondering how the transactions went? Since they are not listed on GWD.. I'd like to hear a bit of personal feedback..
I'm thinking of trying left handed grafting...
and maybe order 645F/9 how did that compare to your knife Joe?
Gina *BabyBlue* _________________
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dauben Citruholic
Joined: 25 Nov 2006 Posts: 963 Location: Ramona, CA, Zone 9A
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Posted: Sat 10 Jan, 2009 1:20 pm |
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BabyBlue11371 wrote: | I was wondering how the transactions went? Since they are not listed on GWD.. I'd like to hear a bit of personal feedback..
I'm thinking of trying left handed grafting...
and maybe order 645F/9 how did that compare to your knife Joe?
Gina *BabyBlue* |
I placed a couple of orders with Timm. Everything went fine except I thought that they had send right handed knives instead of the left handed ones. It turns out that the Tina left handed models aren't marked as such, but if you hold them in your left hand, you can see that the flat part of the knife is against the budwood like it's supposed to.
Personally, I ordered several knives and sold the rest on Ebay. I got some of the wood handled ones with the folding plastic bark lifter, but I think I might like the brass one that Joe got better. Joe mentioned that he thought the bark lifter was too wide and was going shave some of the brass off. Can't do this with the plastic version. All and all, I'm happy with the knives. You just have to watch for rust dilligently since high carbon blades rust easier than stainless.
Phillip |
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BabyBlue11371 Site Admin
Joined: 28 Nov 2005 Posts: 830 Location: SE Kansas
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Posted: Sat 10 Jan, 2009 4:46 pm |
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dauben wrote: | BabyBlue11371 wrote: | I was wondering how the transactions went? Since they are not listed on GWD.. I'd like to hear a bit of personal feedback..
I'm thinking of trying left handed grafting...
and maybe order 645F/9 how did that compare to your knife Joe?
Gina *BabyBlue* |
I placed a couple of orders with Timm. Everything went fine except I thought that they had send right handed knives instead of the left handed ones. It turns out that the Tina left handed models aren't marked as such, but if you hold them in your left hand, you can see that the flat part of the knife is against the budwood like it's supposed to.
Personally, I ordered several knives and sold the rest on Ebay. I got some of the wood handled ones with the folding plastic bark lifter, but I think I might like the brass one that Joe got better. Joe mentioned that he thought the bark lifter was too wide and was going shave some of the brass off. Can't do this with the plastic version. All and all, I'm happy with the knives. You just have to watch for rust dilligently since high carbon blades rust easier than stainless.
Phillip |
Phillip,
Thank you for your input!!
An idea for the plastic bark lifter... buy a nail buffer...
http://www.drugstore.com/products/prod.asp?pid=194983&catid=59857&aid=335944&aparam=rite_aid_nail_buffer_kit&CAID=1f77ddd6-75d3-4ef1-a6e3-0fe2c286c86d
i bought some and used them for my fingers.. they were past their prime and I tried it out on Joe's brass bark lifter.. the result was amazing!!! I think this might work with plastic as well.. maybe use a fine fingernail file to get general shape you want then fine tune with the fingernail buffer..
I will do some trial runs with what I have and let you know how it goes..
Gina *BabyBlue* _________________
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Skeeter Moderator
Joined: 23 Jul 2006 Posts: 2218 Location: Pensacola, FL zone 9
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Posted: Sun 11 Jan, 2009 2:43 pm |
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I'm very happy with my Tina knife. Super sharp! _________________ Skeet
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jbclem Citruholic
Joined: 13 Aug 2008 Posts: 34 Location: Topanga Canyon, Ca 9b
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Posted: Tue 17 Feb, 2009 7:38 am |
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Skeeter, I'm about to put in an order for some Timmen Enterprize Tina knives, and I wanted to ask about the one you bought (641L) since that's the one I think I want.
It's listed as a budding knife, and the blade is curved without much of a straight portion. I'd like to know if you used yours for grafting and if you had any trouble with the curved blade...or did it work fine for grafting.
I want to use it for budding and grafting, but I notice the grafting knives have long straight blades with no curves at all. whereas the budding ones have, besides the obvious upward curve at the point, a long very gradual curve in the blade.
Same question for Joe Real, I think you bought the 645F/9, which is also a budding knife. Have you used it for grafting, as well as budding.
Finally, I'm curious to know how often you've had to sharpen these knives to keep the really keen edge they're known for.
John |
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dauben Citruholic
Joined: 25 Nov 2006 Posts: 963 Location: Ramona, CA, Zone 9A
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Posted: Tue 17 Feb, 2009 2:49 pm |
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Quote: | Skeeter, I'm about to put in an order for some Timmen Enterprize Tina knives, and I wanted to ask about the one you bought (641L) since that's the one I think I want. |
Just know that the 641L is a left handed knife. The knives themselves are not marked with an "L" when you order them, but you want the flat side of the knive against the budwood when cutting. That's the only way to know the difference between the 641 and 641L.
Quote: | It's listed as a budding knife, and the blade is curved without much of a straight portion. I'd like to know if you used yours for grafting and if you had any trouble with the curved blade...or did it work fine for grafting. |
Typically when carving on the scion you want to use the entire length of the blade when you make your cut (Joe correct me if I'm wrong). By starting your cut at the base of the blade and sliding the knive as you make your cut, the straight blade helps make a flat cut on the scion. The curved blade makes it a bit more difficult to do this for grafting.
Quote: | I want to use it for budding and grafting, but I notice the grafting knives have long straight blades with no curves at all. whereas the budding ones have, besides the obvious upward curve at the point, a long very gradual curve in the blade. |
You might want to look into the combination budding/grafting knive (640/10). It has a straight blade to do both, but has the tongue on the back of the blade to lift the bark for budding. The cost is almost as much as getting two of the lower costs knives though.
Quote: | Finally, I'm curious to know how often you've had to sharpen these knives to keep the really keen edge they're known for. |
These blades have a high carbon steel knive that hold an edge much better than stainless. Just beware of RUST!!! Make sure to clean and oil the knife each time you use it. I used it one time and just from the moisture from cutting the bud, it started rusting. This is the tradeoff with high carbon steel versus stainless steel. You get a much harder metal, but much less tolerant to moisture.
Phillip |
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JoeReal Site Admin
Joined: 16 Nov 2005 Posts: 4726 Location: Davis, California
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Posted: Tue 17 Feb, 2009 4:25 pm |
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JbClem, for sure I have used the knife already a thousand times, but mainly for budding. They are excellent for citruses, making the T-cut and opening them.
For grafting, ie, whip and tongue, cleft, even chip-budding, I use the box cutters at Home Depot. Blades are easier to replace and they are so cheap. The box cutter blades are easy to use when taking out the buds, but they are hard to use when making T-cut and opening the bark flaps, and I use the Tina knife for that. This way, I never need to sharpen the Tina budding knife. It is only used for making the T-cut and opening bark flap. The box cutter blades I replace every 50 grafts or so, but depends on how hard the wood that I work on. |
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