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lnewporttx
Joined: 12 Feb 2010 Posts: 21 Location: Austin, Texas
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Posted: Thu 19 Apr, 2012 2:18 pm |
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Sorry to bring this up again. In my previous topic on April 12 Millet said that my Lemon Meyer tree was dealing with twig die back and to slip the tree out of the container and examine the root system.
I have a few questions regarding this to make sure I'm not going to hurt my tree . When I slip the tree out of the container should I also remove the dirt or only look at roots I can see? I'm scared I may shock my tree if I remove the dirt.
Also when I do this and examine the roots what am I looking for ? Or should I just come back here with pictures?
My original post where I asked this
link
Thank You. |
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Laaz Site Owner
Joined: 12 Nov 2005 Posts: 5678 Location: Dorchester County, South Carolina
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Posted: Thu 19 Apr, 2012 3:44 pm |
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Photos will help. What you are looking for is rotten or mushy roots.
If the soil hasn't been changed in a while it would be a good to to do that. When I change my soil, I grab a hold of the lower trunk & pull the tree out of the container. Then, I spray all the soil I can away from the root ball with a garden hose. Now I can put new soil in the container. place the tree where I want it, and refill the rest of the container with new soil & water it in well. _________________ Wal-Mart a great place to buy cheap plastic crap ! http://walmartwatch.com/ ...
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RyanL Citruholic
Joined: 07 Jan 2010 Posts: 410 Location: Orange County, North Carolina. 7B
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Posted: Thu 19 Apr, 2012 6:02 pm |
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Like Lazz said, your problem is almost certainly root rot. It looks like your containers are just too large for the trees you have as well, this could be contributing to or even creating the issue. You really want the soil to be drying out within a week or less. I would replant your trees with containers about 1/2 the size you currently are using. Yes, you will be watering more but, the more you water(when soil is dry) the more oxygen exchange you have in the root area. Without a short dry/water/dry/water cycle you have stagnant root area leading to rot. temperature also has an effect on root rot, put the trees in the most sun you have available, when the sun shines it will warm the root zone, this combined with good fertilization and the right container size should yield positive results quickly. |
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lnewporttx
Joined: 12 Feb 2010 Posts: 21 Location: Austin, Texas
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Posted: Thu 19 Apr, 2012 10:21 pm |
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Laaz wrote: | Photos will help. What you are looking for is rotten or mushy roots.
If the soil hasn't been changed in a while it would be a good to to do that. When I change my soil, I grab a hold of the lower trunk & pull the tree out of the container. Then, I spray all the soil I can away from the root ball with a garden hose. Now I can put new soil in the container. place the tree where I want it, and refill the rest of the container with new soil & water it in well. |
Thanks! I'll do that! |
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lnewporttx
Joined: 12 Feb 2010 Posts: 21 Location: Austin, Texas
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Posted: Thu 19 Apr, 2012 10:24 pm |
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RyanL wrote: | Like Lazz said, your problem is almost certainly root rot. It looks like your containers are just too large for the trees you have as well, this could be contributing to or even creating the issue. You really want the soil to be drying out within a week or less. I would replant your trees with containers about 1/2 the size you currently are using. Yes, you will be watering more but, the more you water(when soil is dry) the more oxygen exchange you have in the root area. Without a short dry/water/dry/water cycle you have stagnant root area leading to rot. temperature also has an effect on root rot, put the trees in the most sun you have available, when the sun shines it will warm the root zone, this combined with good fertilization and the right container size should yield positive results quickly. |
I think the soil is drying out within a week though.
What size pot do you think it should be in? What confuses me is it's been in that pot since 2007 or 2008 and never had any issues.
I *think* if it's root rot it may be a result of the treatment it received while in the popup greenhouse. It was very humid in there and there was a lot of condensation on the walls. What do you think? |
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Laaz Site Owner
Joined: 12 Nov 2005 Posts: 5678 Location: Dorchester County, South Carolina
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Posted: Thu 19 Apr, 2012 10:28 pm |
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4-5 years in the same soil is way too long. _________________ Wal-Mart a great place to buy cheap plastic crap ! http://walmartwatch.com/ ...
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lnewporttx
Joined: 12 Feb 2010 Posts: 21 Location: Austin, Texas
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Posted: Fri 20 Apr, 2012 1:21 am |
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Laaz wrote: | 4-5 years in the same soil is way too long. |
No, no I said pot not soil. I've changed it's soil the year before. I think I posted here before asking about when is a good time to change the soil out. Otherwise I remove the top layer each year.
RyanL said that my pot size is the problem , it's never seem to be an issue before however. |
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Evaldas Citruholic
Joined: 30 Jan 2010 Posts: 303 Location: Vilnius, Lithuania, Zone 5
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Posted: Fri 20 Apr, 2012 8:02 am |
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lnewporttx wrote: | Otherwise I remove the top layer each year. |
It's pretty much the same as the tree being in the same soil for 4-5 years |
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RyanL Citruholic
Joined: 07 Jan 2010 Posts: 410 Location: Orange County, North Carolina. 7B
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Posted: Fri 20 Apr, 2012 11:19 am |
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Its hard to say for sure that the problem is, it really looks like root damage. reducing the pot size would help with soggy rots. this may not be the best solution, you'll have to decide. |
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lnewporttx
Joined: 12 Feb 2010 Posts: 21 Location: Austin, Texas
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Posted: Fri 20 Apr, 2012 11:50 am |
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RyanL wrote: | Its hard to say for sure that the problem is, it really looks like root damage. reducing the pot size would help with soggy rots. this may not be the best solution, you'll have to decide. |
Well I purchased a new pot last night and new soil. This time I bought perlite , and orchid mix so hopefully I the roots will have more room to breathe. My store doesn't carry coconut husk but I have it ordered .
Thanks for all the help hopefully this works. I don't want to lose my little guy. |
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Millet Citruholic
Joined: 13 Nov 2005 Posts: 6657 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Fri 20 Apr, 2012 12:19 pm |
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I've always believed that it is not the amount of water, nor the length of time that a medium stays wet that causes a root problem. Rather the problem is caused by a lack of available oxygen at the root level. Three or four years ago, I ran an experiment, which is probably still posted somewhere on this forum, to find out if a long term wet medium that maintained good root zone air was detrimental. I watered a high oxygen level CHC medium, every single day, and at times twice daily, for an entire month. At the end of my experiment, the tree remained healthy, and with a sound root system.. I don't believe the successful result was solely because of the CHC medium, it is my opinion that any medium that provides a high level of oxygen to the roots, would act the same. - Millet (275 BO-) |
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RyanL Citruholic
Joined: 07 Jan 2010 Posts: 410 Location: Orange County, North Carolina. 7B
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Posted: Fri 20 Apr, 2012 1:11 pm |
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Millet wrote: | I've always believed that it is not the amount of water, nor the length of time that a medium stays wet that causes a root problem. Rather the problem is caused by a lack of available oxygen at the root level. Three or four years ago, I ran an experiment, which is probably still posted somewhere on this forum, to find out if a long term wet medium that maintained good root zone air was detrimental. I watered a high oxygen level CHC medium, every single day, and at times twice daily, for an entire month. At the end of my experiment, the tree remained healthy, and with a sound root system.. I don't believe the successful result was solely because of the CHC medium, it is my opinion that any medium that provides a high level of oxygen to the roots, would act the same. - Millet (275 BO-) |
Millet you are very correct, this is the whole concept behind hydroponic culture! You can even keep a plants roots completely submerged in water 24/7 as long as there is enough oxygen available. My comment about water cycle is more positioned to soil as being a simple way to make sure your tree's rot system is receiving enough oxygen. CHC behaves much differently then soil(as you know I'm sure), so the comments I posted are not valid when addressing a tree growing in a CHC based medium. |
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Millet Citruholic
Joined: 13 Nov 2005 Posts: 6657 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Fri 20 Apr, 2012 1:25 pm |
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Ryan, your advice is well taken. Over watering, or long periods of container wetness (even semi-long periods of wetness) of any medium that does not provide good oxygenation could be fatal to a tree. - Millet (275 BO-) |
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lnewporttx
Joined: 12 Feb 2010 Posts: 21 Location: Austin, Texas
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Posted: Sun 22 Apr, 2012 3:18 pm |
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lnewporttx
Joined: 12 Feb 2010 Posts: 21 Location: Austin, Texas
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Posted: Sun 22 Apr, 2012 3:20 pm |
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But I did change it's pot out to a teracotta type pot. It's not true teracotta though. I can see a fibertype material in the clay which makes a bit lighter in weight.
The pot is the same size as my last one because the plant's roots filled up my last pot . The new soil is Miracle Grow's Orchid mixed with Perlite.
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