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Lane Late in 18in. pot, told to fertilize, cant stop yellowi
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gotro17
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Posted: Thu 14 Jul, 2011 1:41 pm

Going against my rule of not purchasing trees from a certain grower (the trees never look like the ones I get from Four Winds (consistently healthy and gorgeous), I bought a Lane Late navel about 2 months ago. The nursery mgr assured me it only needed a "shot" of fertilizer... well, my trees are perhaps too spoiled (as i'm hoping to find is the case here) and I mixed my 1/3 happy frog, 1/3 redwood shavings, 1/3 perlite with osmocote and EB Stone citrus fertilizer (clearly before I was privy to this forum and all the alternative mixes). The leaves never perked up and since seem to be getting worse. About a month ago I applied fish and kelp emulsion to my other trees and added some to Lane (affectionately named). This weekend it started warming up (we have a very coastal climate here, 10 miles inland from northern end of Malibu) and I was overdue to fertilize everyone else. I applied cottonseed meal and a touch of gypsum and deep watered. As it has been cooler, I have only been watering about once a week.... there are no pests, even with a scant hint of sooty mold on 2 leaves.

I know there are a ton of leaf yellowing topics here but none seemed to fit my particular circumstance.


Thank you SO much for any and all advice (even criticism)~ I appreciate it!
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gotro17
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Posted: Fri 15 Jul, 2011 1:29 pm

Somebody please answer... I'm starting to freak out it's leaf greening (from Asian Psylliad). Ventura county has yet to report any so far though... Those are the only pics I'm able to find that remotely match mine!
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Laaz
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Posted: Fri 15 Jul, 2011 1:42 pm

Dr. Manners would be the one to ask, but that doesn't look like greening to me.

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gotro17
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Posted: Fri 15 Jul, 2011 3:17 pm

In all your wisdom, what do you think it might be? There are more this morning, but we are in a cold week with temps just warming to 70 today...
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jrb
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Posted: Fri 15 Jul, 2011 4:19 pm

Where did these leave come off the tree? Are they the oldest leaves? It looks like nitrogen deficiency to me. If they're the oldest leaves on the tree it's probably nothing to worry about as the oldest leaves often give up their nitrogen before they drop.

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Millet
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Posted: Fri 15 Jul, 2011 5:04 pm

It looks to me that the tree is starving for nitrogen. The symptoms for nitrogen deficiency appear on the older leaves. The symptoms of nitrogen deficiency are: 1). For a less severe nitrogen deficiency, yellow-orange veins with some green out on the far sides of the leaves. 2). With a severe nitrogen deficiency (which this tree is suffering from), the leaves become totally yellow with no variation of color. This poor tree is in drastic need of some REAL NUTRITION. In my estimation, E.B. Stone Citrus fertilizer is a 100 percent completely worthless fertilizer. What this tree needs is to be fertilized with a fertilizer containing a readily soluble high nitrogen, and quickly. - Millet (550-)
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Laaz
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Posted: Fri 15 Jul, 2011 5:16 pm


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gotro17
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Posted: Fri 15 Jul, 2011 5:27 pm

Thank you so much! I was going easy on the fertilizers, I didn't want to hurt the tree after repotting. I do thinknthe poor thing started off "in the hole" coming out of the nursery.

Can you please recommend the nitrogen fix my poor little guy needs? Also, what are your thoughts on gypsum, cottonseed meal and the fish kelp emulsion. I rarely use the E.B. Stone...really only have it on hand for something is better than nothing situations...which possible nothing is just as good Wink
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gotro17
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Posted: Fri 15 Jul, 2011 5:52 pm

By the way the majority of the affected leaves are near the trunk, closer to the bottom...
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Laaz
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Posted: Fri 15 Jul, 2011 6:07 pm


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Millet
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Posted: Fri 15 Jul, 2011 11:16 pm

Citrus are heavy feeders, requiring a good deal of nutrition. I never use cottonseed meal nor fish kelp emulsion. Actually, I never use anything organic with citrus. I have used gypsum in the past but very rarely. I much prefer Magnesium Sulfate (Epsom Salts), over gypsum, as a magnesium source. There are many good fertilizer formulations one can use. Personally, I use 25-5-15 W/trace minerals (a 5-1-3 ratio), other members have use 30-10-10, Vigoro, and many other formulas. Whatever formulation you choose, be sure it contains all the trace minerals. Applied at 250-PPM Nitrogen would be a good rate to apply. Good luck to you and your tree. The best. - Millet (550-)
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danero2004
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Posted: Sat 16 Jul, 2011 6:07 pm

If I may add a question , isn't it because of the iron ?

One of my citrus trees had that , but was fertilized quite enough and I was affraid maybe it was over-fertlized.

Lowering the PH level in soil does not have anything to do with yellowing of the leaves , by making the trace minerals not available to the roots due to PH low level ?
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igor.fogarasi
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Posted: Sat 16 Jul, 2011 6:37 pm

a complete yellowing of the leaves shouldn't necessary indicate the iron deficiency.
iron deficiency is more like yellowing of the whole leaf except its veins, which in most of the cases, remain green...



i'm preety sure that asian psylliad didn't do a number on your plant! on the other hand i agree with millet stating that it might be the repercussion of a nitrogen deficiency. which appears mostly on the older leaves...

igor
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danero2004
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Posted: Sat 16 Jul, 2011 6:47 pm



well what about this leaves. Any recipe to follow ?
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Millet
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Posted: Sun 17 Jul, 2011 1:12 am

As igor.fogarasi wrote above, iron deficiency shows green veins, on otherwise yellow leaves. Nitrogen deficiency shows yellow-orange veins on otherwise yellow leaves. Further, when a tree is iron deficient, the affect leaves are the tree's new leaves . When a tree is nitrogen deficient, the affect leaves are the old leaves. - Millet (549-)
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