I see some scales on the tree ? You got some "sticky leaves" maybe . Other than that the tree is in good shape.

I have treated with Agricultural Oil spray a couple of time, I do get sticky leaves and spray about every 6 weeks. Thanks for mentioning the scale - is it the brown spots on the stems?

I should update with some more pics to show LED light progress. I now have 2-28 watt LED panels and 1-90 watt LED UFO. I had to lower my table because a couple of the trees were outgrowing the top of the LED lights.

I have kept a log and can say that the 14 watt LED panel I had was too weak for much growth (had a catnip plant under it and it would produce leggy stems).

So, that being said I've learned that the low end LED panels are too weak for most applications.

I spray my trees as instructed and that is at 6 days not 6 weeks , but scale I have to remove them by hand because is the only way you can get rid of them

Thanks for mentioning the scale, the scale on that older photo was mostly gone but a couple of brown ones remained although dry and dead. I did fine a couple of others on visual inspection of the trees, thanks for mentioning it - good eyes.

I'm glad I could help and to mention that a tree that had some scale on it must be in quarantine for few months and only after that if you see no signs of other scales invasion you can be sure that they are all gone.
I was tricked and they all got back the first time, but now I know how to spot them.

Thank you

@Stoddo2k11:

sorry for going off the topic... have you done the flower pollination part? paint brush or some other gadget? thanks in advance... i'm getting very desperate for bees not doing their job... seems like i'll have to do everything on my own...

cheers

Igor, with just a few exceptions, the vast majority of citrus varieties are self fertile, and therefore do not require any help from you or from bees to set fruit, they will set fruit on their own. What citrus varieties are you concerned about? - Millet (638-)

@Millet:

i'm concerned about dwarf citrus sinensis (since it's currently blooming). however i'd be glad to know the same thing for citrus maxima (pomelo)... i've done some investigation, with ambiguous results though. so i don't want to risk staying without its very first crop.

thanks!

Citrus Maxima (Pummelo) is self fertile and does not require insect pollination. I also have a Pummelo tree that was recently in bloom, and has set a crop of fruit without any source of pollination. The tree is growing inside a greenhouse, therefore there are no bees nor any type of pollinating insects. - Millet (636-)

here's an updated pic of 3 of my citrus trees under LED lights (2 LED 28 watt panels from Sunshine Systems and 1 UFO HO LED light). The plants seem to do well under the LED lights, I also have a dwarf banana plant that puts on a new leaf about once every 2 weeks. I have noticed that the coverage area of the LED lights is far less than advertised. I also have a lavender bush and catnip plant both doing well under LED lights.

I do have a question though, since the plants have been indoors since October of last year - how does an indoor plant know when its spring to start flowering (one of the citrus is starting to flower)? The temps haven't changed since its indoors, do the citrus trees have an internal 6 month timer?

I have moved my three citrus trees outside for the summer but will update pics in the pics section. I am posting a pic of my flood and drain hydroponics setup under LED lights (it has a tomato, basil, orange tree, flowers, mini belle pepper, chives, lettuce).

However, what I have learned about the LED lights can be a lesson. They don't cover much square area and multiple lights are needed for anyone more than 2 x 2, also higher wattage ones produce far better results (1 watt-3 watts per LED light) and cost for lighting everything is quite high for the lights ($150-$250 for decent LED panels). Once summer ends I will need to buy a grow tent to better cast the lights and for easier hanging. But, either way one can see that LED lights so work on this hydroponic system. I can harvest lettuce, basil, chives, cilantro daily and flowers for cherry tomato and belle pepper are starting.

Time to set the LED grow lights again , so I ordered myself some LED to create my own set-up , it is very easy and much cheapper.

@danero2004 what kind of LED did you order? i ask because there is a lot of cheap Leds from china that is sold on ebay and other places and those are very low quality. That is why we often hear about LED UFOs that is pretty much useless.

Lumen is mentioned in the beginning of this thread, but actually PAR i the factor you should look at. I myself have grown under HPS lamps earlier and a 400watt bulb is really powerfull, but will also drain you electric bill.

Myself i use CREE or Edison Led which should be some of the best on the market, and i am very happy with their performance.

Here is a link where they compare HPS to LED and explain difference between lumen and PAR

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DAw13w9eFxY

I use this

Bright White-Yellow : 590nm
Red: 625nm
Blue: 465nm


Blue LED - 9000mcd x 50
Red LED - 8000 mcd x 150
Bright white-yellow - 14000 mcd

example with the bright yellow white .....
Lenses Type : Crystal Clear
Case Style : Round 5mm
Brightness : 14000mcd (Ultra Bright)
Forward Voltage : 3.2v – 3.8v
Forward Current : 20mA (Typical) 30mA (Max)

from the video I see that LumiGrow is the best ! with medium costs compare to 600 HPS , the only one who could beat the Lumigrow