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Persimmon grafts look good.
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Skeeter
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Joined: 23 Jul 2006
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Location: Pensacola, FL zone 9

Posted: Sat 14 Apr, 2007 7:28 pm

My wild persimmon tree finally started budding out last week and I grafted 2 scions that Joe sent me onto it. The Jiro buds are already swelling. The Izu is still green but hasn't shown much sign of growth yet.

I followed Joe's tutorial on the bark graft for the Jiro and used the whip graft method on the smaller Izu scion.

I will try to get some pictures tomorrow if the weather will clear up.

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Posted: Wed 02 May, 2007 10:03 pm

Both scions are starting to break-- several buds on both of them are long and green--no leaves yet, but the buds are nearly 1/2 inch long, so clearly they have taken.

Thanks again Joe for the scions and the tutorial-- with your help I'm 100% on persimmons!

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JoeReal
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Posted: Wed 02 May, 2007 10:13 pm

Glad to hear that Skeet!

I have one persimmon graft that the strong winds have ripped off all the newly 5" long sprouted branches from the buds so that it was bare again. I left it for dead, but now, which is a eek later, I see some tiny green resprouting happening on the same grafted stem around the places of original buds, and for sure I know all of the buds were blown away. It was also bark grafted.
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Posted: Wed 02 May, 2007 11:07 pm

It sound like you were saved by the multiple eye phenomenon (or second chance bud as I call it) that saved my Daisy bud as well as a pecan I grafted years ago.

It's nice to get a second chance!

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Posted: Mon 21 May, 2007 11:43 am

Wow-- What growth! I just looked at the date of the posting I made when the buds began to break--May 2-- The growth on the Jiro is now over 2 ft!-- In less than a month!

Both the Jiro and the Izu have 2 buds that sprouted. The Jiro scion was 1/2 inch in diameter and the Izu was only 1/4 inch-- the growth from the Izu is about 6 inches from both sprouts which is still seems pretty good to me. I will try to get some pictures up this week.

Thanks again Joe-- your method works great!

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Ramon-Tj
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Posted: Mon 21 May, 2007 1:48 pm

skeeter can you get fruit from a pecan that sprouted from seed? last year I discarted some pecan nuts in to the garden I have been pulling them out finally I decided to pot a few of them, how long before they fruit, are they easy to graft??

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Posted: Wed 23 May, 2007 12:22 am

Yes you can get pecans from a seedling-- you just don't know what they will be like unless you graft a known variety. Most seedlings are a little smaller than commercial varieties and are good tasting, but that is not a certainty. I have tried budding pecans with very limited success, but have had good luck with the 4 flap bannana graft (about 80%--when I use stored winter wood on active budding trees).

As for potting your trees-- I think you would be better off to plant a new pecan in the spot where you want a tree. When you dig them up you usually have to cut the tap root and the tree will be much easier to blow over when it grows up, but if you plant it in place the tap root will make it much stronger-- all of the pecans in my yard were planted from seed in place.

There is one more thing you may need to know-- there are 2 types (referred to as male and female)-- but that is not exactly true-- both types have male and female parts, but the "male" puts out catkins first.
Anyway-- you need both types to get consistient pollination.

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Ramon-Tj
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Posted: Wed 23 May, 2007 12:35 am

thank you skeeter, maybe if I graft this ones in the pot and then plant them inground and keep the from growing to large my yard is well protected from winds

Ramon
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Skeeter
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Posted: Fri 25 May, 2007 12:13 pm

You can do that, but you would be surprised at how much faster the ones that are planted directly in the ground will grow since their taproot is intact. Try both if you have the room in your yard.

BTW, if you have not chosen a variety, I recommend Elliot--they are very good tasting, shell out easily after they are cracked and are resistient to most disease.

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Posted: Thu 28 Jun, 2007 6:27 pm





Here are a couple pictures of the persimmon grafts at 2 month-- the Jiro is starting a second growth spurt-- I may have to move the graft of the Izu to one of the Jiro branches next spring or they may get burried under the growth of the Jiro.

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JoeReal
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Posted: Thu 28 Jun, 2007 7:04 pm

that's the trick Skeet! Always regraft from the less vigorous to the more vigorous and you will have a well balanced tree. Multi-grafting when you are prepared to solve its problems will work great and quite a nice challenge to play around with your plants.
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Posted: Thu 28 Jun, 2007 11:22 pm

Thanks Joe-- I just can't believe the growth out of this graft in just 2 months! How big will this tree get? The japanese persimmons I am use to are relatively small trees--usually about 10 to 12 ft tall.

We had 2 at the farm where I grew up-- one had a kind of pointed bottom and the other was relatively flat bottomed. We did not eat many except in persimmon bread.

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JoeReal
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Posted: Thu 28 Jun, 2007 11:27 pm

Jiro is an intermediately vigorous tree and tend to be more upright, so it could be tall... Here's from my database:

Other names include Ziro. The tree produces medium sized fruits. Firm ripe fruits can be eaten fresh. Non-astringent type regardless of pollination. A pollination constant non astringent (PCNA) type. Fruit shape is flat, with a squarish cross section. Best time to harvest is when fruits have dark-orange skin color. When ripe, flesh is orange-yellow in color when pollinated. Sugar content of the fruit is medium. It has rounded seeds that are medium to large sized. Cold storage of fruits are not recommended. The female flowers are medium sized. Cultivar originated from Japan. The fruits after cold storage have good taste quality. It flowers are of the intermediate type. It bears female flowers only. Tree ripened fruits have poor to fair taste. An intermediately vigorous tree. Its fruits ripen intermediately in the season. This plant is mainly used for fruit production. Frost resistance is low. Fruit production has high reliability. Fruits are primarily used as dessert. It has medium parthenocarpic fruit sets. It has none or very low grafting compatibility on Diospyrus lotus rootstock.
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JoeReal
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Posted: Thu 28 Jun, 2007 11:29 pm

And about Izu: Although it is also intermediately vigorous tree, it is not as upright as Jiro.

It produces medium sized fruits. A pollination constant non astringent (PCNA) type. Fruit shape is very flat, with a roundish cross section. Best time to harvest is when fruits have orange-red to red skin color. When ripe, flesh is red in color when pollinated. Sugar content of the fruit is medium. It has sub-triangular to sub-ovate seeds that are large sized. An intermediately vigorous tree. An advanced (domesticated or bred) cultivar. Its fruits ripen intermediately to early in the season. Izu is late bloomer compared to others. It has low parthenocarpic fruit sets. Frost resistance is low. Fruits are primarily used as dessert. It bears female flowers only. This cultivar is mainly used for fruit production. Cold storage of fruits are not recommended. The female flowers are medium sized. Fruit production has high reliability. It has none or very low grafting compatibility on Diospyrus lotus rootstock. Tree ripened fruits have poor to fair taste. Cultivar is of Japanese origin. The fruits after cold storage have poor to fair taste quality.
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JoeReal
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Posted: Thu 28 Jun, 2007 11:30 pm

But interactions with rootstocks could play a role in the vigor of the grafted cultivar.
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