A couple of days ago I noticed a string of crystallized sap coming out of the bark at the base of one of the branches on my Bergamot orange. I picked it off and examined the spot where it came out of, but couldn't see anything special about it. Now I come home from work and I see another string of hardened sap. The color is kinda rosy-orange transparent and it's pretty hard except where it leaves the bark it's syrup-y. What's happening?

I found this, not sure if it will help or not.

http://www.texasweet.com/About-Texas-Citrus/How-to-Care-for-A-Citrus-Tree

I have a citrus tree in the house that is about five years old. It seems to be doing quite well other than the sap that the tree is producing. It has also never produced fruit. What can be done?
I'm unclear about the nature about the "sap" which is "coming out of the tree." If it is a thick, honey-colored viscous material oozing from the trunk or a major limb, then the tree has become infected with a fungus disease, which will become more serious with time. The treatment is to apply a 12 to one mixture of water and Ridomil with a brush or sponge to the whole trunk and any limbs which might be affected. Another treatment is to spray the foliage with Alliette as directed on the label. These are both commercial orchard materials and may be available from a well-equipped garden center. Both materials are used in other crops and should be available somewhere in your area. Your county agent should be able to help.

Yes, it is phytopthora. You have to cure it because it will kill your tree. It takes from few days to few years to kill your tree.
It is not always easy to cure, it can take several months.

Thanks for the help.
Phytophthora, that doesn't sound too good. My meyer lemon seems to have the same problem now (gummosis). I've done some research and if I understand this correctly, I can control this fungus with chemicals (like fosetyl-al/aliette) but it is impossible to get rid of it completely? Bummer.

I've only recently repotted them in a CHC mix, the soil they came in was way too heavy. I should've done this much sooner.

I had an Almond tree get gummosis and I had to burn the tree. I miss that tree too.

Although it is a strong possibility, i wouldn't 100% assume its PHYTOPHORA until you do some more investigation.Gumming could be caused by other pathogens, or even borer damage.
How is the rest of the plant ? Any sign of overall decline ?
Apart from chemicals, there has been some Australian research into using composted chicken manure ie; " biological control of Phytophora cinnamoni in Thryptomene spp. using manure treatments." author David Guest et al.

Even UC Davis is an advocate for using compost tea and treated municipal wastes to control phytophthora in problem fields such as those for avocado, citruses, almonds and other fruits. The only problem with manure types is that they are very unreliable because the composition of the microorganisms in the the composted manure are not the same and will perform the same in various problem soils. Sometimes, the manure itself are the cause of introducing other pathogens and problems could be aggravated. But if you have a manure composting facility that works well for you, it can and will work well for you when you make an effort to maintain your microorganism communities in the compost heap.

Pyrethrum, is considered "organic" just because it can be derived from chrysanthemusms, (Chrysanthemum cinerariaefolium), grown primarily in Africa. However, much of the pyrethrums are produced synthetically, instead of harvested. Actually, pyrethrum is a broad spectrum insecticide, similar to many of the synthetics, that kill beneficial insects as well as pests, thus acts in the same way as many of the synthetic pesticides. It affects the transmission of nerve impulses to and from the brain, and should be considered dangerous by anyone using it. Pyrethrum is often mixed with piperonly butoxide which is derived from safrole, a once common food flavoring, that is now banned from food because it has been shown to be carcinogenic. This mixture is a common choice for wasp sprays because it acts so quickly to disrupt the insects; nerve impulses, knocking them right out of the sky. The EIQ of pyrethrum is around 18, the EIQ of piperonly butoxide is 20.8. There is not much difference, if any, between Pyrethrum and many common synthetic insecticides. Still the public thinks they are spraying "organic". I write all this, to illustrate, that their is not as much difference, between *some* organics and synthetics pesticides as people are taught to believe. - Millet (1,376-)

Hey Millet.
The product I used consists of 4g/l pyrethrum of natural origin (Chrysanthemum) and 825g/l rapeseed oil. It has to be thinned with water (10ml per liter) and sprayed on the leaves. Once pyrethrum dries up it becomes harmless. Seemed pretty innocent to me (except for those red spider mites of course).

Don't get me wrong, Pyrethrum is a good insecticide to use, and is relatively safe to use, as are all synthetic insecticides, when used according to the label. I have not yet trialled Joe Real's AZ41 on spider mites, as currently my trees are free of them. AZ41, being totally non-toxic, would be an outstanding product to use - depending on how well it controls mites. I do not know how good AZ41 is on mites, but I plan to trial it on spider mites this summer. I have used it on aphids, and I can testify that it seems to do a very good job. But before I am 100 percent certain, I still have some more aphid trials to do yet, but AZ41 looks very promising.. I have also sprayed in on white fly, on both tomatoes, and pomegranates. One problem with white fly control, is that the they fly away as soon as the spray is used. The life span of a greenhouse white fly is 40 to 60 days depending on temperature, and a each femail can lay up to 161 eggs. Therefore, my plan of attack is to spray the white fly eggs which are attached to the bottom surface of the leaves. However, I am spraying the entire plant. I won't know how long the trial will need to be. The big four greenhouse pest are aphids, white fly, scale and mealy bug. I will trial all four and report when I know the results. Millet (1,376-)

Thanks Millet!

Initially you will have excellent kill of aphids and scales during spraying, but insect resistance surges, and some generation will survive and will rebound and you will observe some of them, albeit reduced population. But then go on with the regular spraying as AZ41 has another mode of operation up its sleeves. Our botanist who tested AZ41 thoroughly told us that through time, as the plant's Systemic Acquired Resistance builds up from the regular spraying, it affects the reproductive ability of insect pests feeding on the plants and that effectively decreases their populations to the point that they won't be a bother. So far, I have proven it to be extremely effective against white flies, cottony scales, mealy bugs, aphids, red scales and even ants. The ants no longer climb my citrus trees. I still have a few aphids on my roses, but these are far fewer than what I used to have.

One of the very effective use of AZ41 is the control of powdery mildew. I have completely eliminated them from my apples, roses, artichokes, grapes and other ornamentals. Another effective control is the gummosis on my Midknight Valencia Orange. I have those sap that SGF observed. So I pruned them and applied AZ41, and had no problem ever since about the sap oozing out. The gummosis problem in citruses may also be due to lack of copper in the nutrition program. So make sure you have adequate copper in your micronutrient mix.

We have observed AZ41 to be extremely effective against phytophthora in pineapples, avocadoes and citruses in a tropical setting. The technique involved soaking the whole pot in a diluted solution of AZ41, preferrably 1 part AZ41 to 500 parts water, and then spraying the entire tree with a dilution of 1 part AZ41 to 256 parts water. Then follow it up with a twice a month spraying of AZ41 at dilution of 1:256. In 2004, studies in Australia have shown that AZ41 is able to reduce the incidence of phytophthora root rot from 20% down to 0.1%. That one involved dipping the whole planting material into the diluted solution and air drying them before they are planted.

AZ41 has good sticker property that you can mix foliar blend fertilizer during the sprayings. AZ41 is a bio-stimulant that has these insecticidal, nematicidal, and fungicidal properties. Thus all you need to do is follow your nutrition program and supplement with AZ41 for your total plant nutrition and plant protection. Compared to other products, AZ41 enhances the immunity system of your plants to pests and diseases through regular use.

This is the only product that I have used that have cured my scale problems, mealy bug problems, cottony scales, completely revived my few problem blueberries and produced powdery mildew-free roses for the first time this season, even if we had late season rains. Most of all it is non-toxic, not made with nor made from any synthetic chemicals. Very aromatic, pleasant to apply, does not require any protective suits, gloves, or goggles, and helps prevent water pollution when it gets into the ground or the streams.

I am currently doing some NPK foliar spray trials. On my tomatoes, I added a foliar rate of 25-5-15 to the AZ41 spray. Therefore, I hope to achieve white fly control, foliar spray nutrition using AZ41 as a NPK sticker, and also receive the AZ41 bio-protection. Do to all the spring field work, I can tell you these particular greenhouse tomatoes plants are in pretty rough shape, as I did not get on the white fly problem as quickly as I should. Will be a good test for AZ41. - Millet (1,376-)

Millet, when you have fruits and during in between applications without the fertilizers, continue spraying AZ41 unto the tomatoes, wetting leaves and the fruits, and you should have remarkable taste difference on those fruits sprayed and not sprayed with AZ41. We have formal tests going on with a big commercial greenhouse that grows organic tomatoes near the Monterey area.

From your photo's, I would seal the cut surfaces ( especially the one at soil level ) to prevent infection, and keep some mulch peices away from the base to allow a bit more drainage and air flow around the trunk. Also check the trunk at soil level and just below for any cracking rotting bark, and/or sap production.