I just ordered a few 5gal rootmaker containers. I'm going to put my variegated Calamondin in one. I'm hoping to make this the trees permanent home. Since the the Rookmaker prunes the roots of the tree, do I need prune the roots or foliage at all to maintain the size of the tree?

I also plan on putting my Citrus hystrix in one as well for its permanent home. I just need some help, because I don't want to pot-up these trees.

One last Rootmaker question. If I put the Rootmaker container inside a larger container, say a nice clay pot, will that disrupt the air root pruning?

The use of RootMaker containers is based on the 4-Inch rule. To achieve the highest success using a RootMaker container, one should start with a seed, and move up through the various sizes of air root pruning containers. However, one can also start with a bare root tree, and transplant into the proper size RootMaker container, by fanning the tree's root system out in a more or less horizontal direction, so that the tree's root system can benefit from the 4-inch rule. The 4-Inch rule to maximize root branching in containers should be a consideration at every transplant. Anyone that has ever pruned shrubs or trees to make a hedge has experienced the 4-inch rule. It has long been known that when a twig or branch is cut in the pruning process lateral branching occurs, typically from the point of the pruning cut and extending back about 4 inches. Allow the numerous branches produced as a result of the first pruning to grow out 4 to 6 inches then prune again and additional new branching occurs. Branching occurs as a result of removal of the terminal bud, and the hormone that suppresses branching. The 4-inch rule also applies to roots as well. Therefore a root in a RootMaker container is air root pruned over and over, each time doubling the number of new lateral roots.

It is important to note that the 4-inch rule DOES NOT compensate or overcome the problem of leaving plants in a given container size too long. Benefits from RootMaker air-root pruning containers follow a rough bell curve - that is, root branching increases and increases, reaching a maximum, then, if transplanting does not occur, root branching and benefits begin to decline. This occurs because there is a limited amount of space in any container and as that space is filled with roots there is little space for new development. The plant can become root bound even though there is not root circling. Very quickly space, water, and oxygen in the growth medium becomes limiting and stunting begins.

Therefore, as with all containers, using a RootMaker container as a permanent home, the tree will need to be lifted from the container from time to time to have the root ball cut back, and then replaced back into the container and filled in with new medium. The foliage also will require some pruning back to match the root loss. The other alternative is to transplant the tree into a larger container. - Millet (901-)

Millet, when you remove a tree from it's container and prune the roots, how do you match the foliage pruning to the pruning you've done to the roots?

At what point do you stop potting up on your trees? Some trees I just don't want that large. There must be some size limit most of you pro's stop potting up to with your container grown trees and just maintain.

There are many container trees that have been growing in the same size container for more than 100 years. To achieve this longevity, the grower has lifted the tree, pruned the roots and foliage every couple years. If this is not done the tree will begin to decline. Cut the foliage back the same percentage as the percentage you cut back the root system.

Here is a picture of Oscar Tintori's container trees. These trees have been pulled, root and foliage pruned many times. By doing so Oscar has established a great business and wonderful old trees. Oscar is in Italy. He has published a book, which I have in my library.

http://web.tiscali.it/oscartintori/

With dedication, learning, hard work, and love of your trees, you can also achieve the very same, or higher level of success, as Tintori has. The very best of success to you and your citrus. - Millet (901-)

Thanks Millet.

Speaking of Tintori, I've been looking for some nice prints of the old botanical citrus drawings I think one of his books has. I think they beautiful and I would love to have a few on my wall.

It has been a couple years since I've read Mr. Tintori's book. I'll have to look at it again to see if there are such prints. - Millet (901-)

Hi Mark,

Mark_T wrote:

Speaking of Tintori, I've been looking for some nice prints of the old botanical citrus drawings I think one of his books has. I think they beautiful and I would love to have a few on my wall.

Try and search for "Volkamer" on ebay for instance. I've quite a few times seen such prints offered.

Cheers,
christian.

Dang, I ordered the Grounder 5 gallon instead of the Rounder 5 gallon. Will it make a difference?

I don't think so, but I am not sure, as I have never used the grounder. I only purchase the Rounders. In fact I just ordered two cases of Rounders today. The Rounders have a much broader bottom, and are more stable against tipping over against the wind. However, they both are 5-gallon. The rounder should be an easier container to fit inside a large decorative container than the Rounder. - Millet (899-*) Down 100 More Days.

Millet,
Are you saying that Tintori takes those huge trees out of those pots and cuts the roots every year or so? He must use a tractor. What type of medium are they in? I am still trying to crack the code for potted citrus.

In Tintori's book, a picture is shown of using a forklift, and what looks to be a 4-6 inch wide strap to lift the tree out of the container, so they can accomplish the root pruning. Then the tree is put back into the same pot. - Millet (898-)

I looked into Oscar Tintori's book today to see how they re-pot their trees. They use two methods. 1). They wrap a cloth around the tree's trunk to protect it, then tie a strong rope around the trunk, placing the rope over the cloth. Through a loop in the rope, they slide a pole through, and two men lift the tree, while a third man taps down on the container's rim to help dislodge the container. 2). They use a portable crane to lift the tree out of the container, while a man taps down on the container to help remove the container. - Millet (897-)

Thanks Millet,
I need to get that book. So I guess once I get successful with a potted tree to a size I like I can keep it in the same size container by removing and root pruning and replacing. What is the biggest citrus you have and do you have a photo of it? I notice that Tintori sells a bagged potting soil. So I wonder how many people use this bagged mix with good results. I need to crack the code by next spring for my new 5gal dwarfs.

Tintori's book is entitled "Ornamental Citrus Plants - advice on their cultivation from our rural gardening tradition". The book contains many good pictures of various varieties of citrus. However, in my personal opinion (for whatever thats worth), I would give the book a rating of only a 3, on a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the best. I was disappointed after reading it. - Millet (897-)