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DaveF Citruholic
Joined: 25 Jul 2009 Posts: 38 Location: Twin Cities, Minnesota
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Posted: Thu 15 Sep, 2011 10:41 pm |
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Hey guys. We had our first hard freeze last night and I've sadly had to bring my tree inside for the long winter.
Here's my current lighting setup, I'm curious for any feedback to see whether I'm doing anything wrong.
They're flourescent lights so I have them within a few inches of the top of the tree, but the thing is so spread out that I wonder if it's going to get enough light on the lower levels. I was thinking of maybe getting some clamp on lights to put on the posts of my shelf there to light up the sides. Do you think the top light alone will be enough or should I look into getting more?
Here's the variety of light I have now:
I'm considering getting a MH grow light to replace that since reading threads on the forum here makes it sound like that is the preferred setup. Thoughts on that? If I do it, how much power do I need? Will one of the 250 watt kits from amazon.com work?
I like this setup because it will let me slide a big flat rubbermaid tub under the bottom shelf so I can water right where it's at and let the overflow run through the wire rack so I won't have to haul the thing into the bathroom to soak anymore.
Now I just need to find a decent heat source for the soil. I don't think Christmas lights wrapping the pot will work well because it's in a rootmaker container where water runs out the sides when I'm watering. Maybe a seedling heat mat underneath when I'm not watering?
Thanks,
Dave |
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Millet Citruholic
Joined: 13 Nov 2005 Posts: 6656 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Thu 15 Sep, 2011 11:06 pm |
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I used a 250 watt Metal Halide light (MH) on my Marisol Clementine tree, along with placing a silver colored 4-ft board on all four sides of the tree. I lit the MH light from sunset until 10:00PM (when I go to bed). The four silver boards reflected the light evenly to all four sides of the tree. I also kept the root zone around 80F. I did this for two winters. The tree had 5 flushes of new growth each year. The tree is now about 9 - 10 feet tall and 10 feet wide. Currently it has a large fruit crop. - Millet (487-) |
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DaveF Citruholic
Joined: 25 Jul 2009 Posts: 38 Location: Twin Cities, Minnesota
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Posted: Thu 15 Sep, 2011 11:12 pm |
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Damn that sounds awesome. I think i'd be in trouble if this thing got that large but that tells me the 250 would be more than enough output for this little guy.
Was the silver board you used just the foam housing insulation with silver on the sides? |
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Millet Citruholic
Joined: 13 Nov 2005 Posts: 6656 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Thu 15 Sep, 2011 11:18 pm |
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Yes that is the board that I used. - Millet (487-) |
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RyanL Citruholic
Joined: 07 Jan 2010 Posts: 410 Location: Orange County, North Carolina. 7B
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Posted: Mon 19 Sep, 2011 12:48 pm |
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You may conciser pruning that guy a little for a even height canopy, because the light intensity will be high for the branches close to the light and low for the branches away. |
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DaveF Citruholic
Joined: 25 Jul 2009 Posts: 38 Location: Twin Cities, Minnesota
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Posted: Tue 20 Sep, 2011 12:16 am |
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RyanL wrote: | You may conciser pruning that guy a little for a even height canopy, because the light intensity will be high for the branches close to the light and low for the branches away. |
What would be the best way to do that? Just snip off those top three leaf clusters?
Will that lock the tree out of ever looking more like a tree than a short bush? I'd hoped for that longest central one to thicken up someday and make a trunk. Maybe that's not going to happen.
Thanks,
Dave |
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JackLord Citruholic
Joined: 14 May 2010 Posts: 70 Location: Washington, DC
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Posted: Wed 21 Sep, 2011 2:09 pm |
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I do a variant of the silver board, but not with my Citrus. Those go on the sunporch in the sweet spot. I overwinter my other tropicals in the basement under plant lights. To reflect more light, I procured a whole bunch of those foil-like survival blankets. They are dirt cheap and seem to reflect liight well. They also conserve heat, hence their name. |
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SeaHorse_Fanatic Citruholic
Joined: 19 Sep 2011 Posts: 86 Location: Burnaby, BC Zone 8b/9b
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Posted: Wed 21 Sep, 2011 4:36 pm |
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Great idea on those metallic survival blankets. Gotta go find some now.
Anthony |
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JackLord Citruholic
Joined: 14 May 2010 Posts: 70 Location: Washington, DC
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Posted: Wed 21 Sep, 2011 5:24 pm |
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SeaHorse_Fanatic wrote: | Great idea on those metallic survival blankets. Gotta go find some now.
Anthony |
I procured a ton off of eBay for a pittance. |
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RyanL Citruholic
Joined: 07 Jan 2010 Posts: 410 Location: Orange County, North Carolina. 7B
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Posted: Wed 21 Sep, 2011 5:27 pm |
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DaveF wrote: | What would be the best way to do that? Just snip off those top three leaf clusters?
Will that lock the tree out of ever looking more like a tree than a short bush? I'd hoped for that longest central one to thicken up someday and make a trunk. Maybe that's not going to happen. |
Yes snip off the top two to make the canopy level, you can then drop the light down a little for better coverage. It will form a bush like appearance but that's not bad and would probably suite your setup more efficiently. BTW, citrus normal form is more or less bush like. |
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Big_al Citruholic
Joined: 13 Feb 2008 Posts: 49 Location: Minneapolis, MN
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Posted: Sun 25 Sep, 2011 9:21 am |
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I just brought mine in as well...
Washington navel, trovita, gold nugget, page, kishu, variegated lemon.
I am lucky to have a sun room at home and grow lights in the office.
My last attempt at citrus indoors in MN was a DISASTER! This board helped me a lot!! I dropped a grand total of 6 leaves on all trees combined this year, but had to completely change my approach to citrus. I am used to growing mangos, and this is an entirely different animal.
As to winter...WLD got me, but scale got me as well...in two different houses, with completely different trees.
Things I have learned for citris in the twin cities:
south windows during mid winter cause leaves to get very hot! East seems to be better. Or. at least, use a seed heating mat under the south facing trees.
Also, start looking for scale bugs on top of, and under leaves. they are there...I guarantee it! use a qtip dipped n rubbing alcohol and check the trees thoroughly every few days! I knocked out a few last night.
Scale hates fish emulsion spray...I don't know why, but it does...problem is that fish emulsion stinks!
Next, We give the trees more light than they really need in the winter. My friend in eden prairie has a 20 year old calamondin that is in an obstucted east window, and it is fine. It has spent its entire life here and fruits every year.
I would recommend a 175-250 metal halide if no east or south windows are avail. The nice thing about 175 is it is a small light. much smaller than the 250, and fine for a tree of your size. I have a spare that you are welcome to borrow if you like. Also, the aluminum bubble insulation sold a HD works fantastic! It is similar to what Millet uses, but more adaptable in my opinion. Drop me a PM sometime...and listen to the folks on this board!
Albert |
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DaveF Citruholic
Joined: 25 Jul 2009 Posts: 38 Location: Twin Cities, Minnesota
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Posted: Sun 02 Oct, 2011 1:38 pm |
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RyanL wrote: | DaveF wrote: | What would be the best way to do that? Just snip off those top three leaf clusters?
Will that lock the tree out of ever looking more like a tree than a short bush? I'd hoped for that longest central one to thicken up someday and make a trunk. Maybe that's not going to happen. |
Yes snip off the top two to make the canopy level, you can then drop the light down a little for better coverage. It will form a bush like appearance but that's not bad and would probably suite your setup more efficiently. BTW, citrus normal form is more or less bush like. |
Is there anything special I need to know about the pruning or should I just grab a shears and go at it?
How hard would it be to get one of those cut off tops to root into a new tree? I wouldn't mind getting another one growing here. Do I just dip the cut in hormone and let it sit in water for a while? |
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DaveF Citruholic
Joined: 25 Jul 2009 Posts: 38 Location: Twin Cities, Minnesota
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Posted: Sun 02 Oct, 2011 1:42 pm |
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Big_al wrote: | I just brought mine in as well...
Washington navel, trovita, gold nugget, page, kishu, variegated lemon.
I am lucky to have a sun room at home and grow lights in the office.
My last attempt at citrus indoors in MN was a DISASTER! This board helped me a lot!! I dropped a grand total of 6 leaves on all trees combined this year, but had to completely change my approach to citrus. I am used to growing mangos, and this is an entirely different animal.
As to winter...WLD got me, but scale got me as well...in two different houses, with completely different trees.
Things I have learned for citris in the twin cities:
south windows during mid winter cause leaves to get very hot! East seems to be better. Or. at least, use a seed heating mat under the south facing trees.
Also, start looking for scale bugs on top of, and under leaves. they are there...I guarantee it! use a qtip dipped n rubbing alcohol and check the trees thoroughly every few days! I knocked out a few last night.
Scale hates fish emulsion spray...I don't know why, but it does...problem is that fish emulsion stinks!
Next, We give the trees more light than they really need in the winter. My friend in eden prairie has a 20 year old calamondin that is in an obstucted east window, and it is fine. It has spent its entire life here and fruits every year.
I would recommend a 175-250 metal halide if no east or south windows are avail. The nice thing about 175 is it is a small light. much smaller than the 250, and fine for a tree of your size. I have a spare that you are welcome to borrow if you like. Also, the aluminum bubble insulation sold a HD works fantastic! It is similar to what Millet uses, but more adaptable in my opinion. Drop me a PM sometime...and listen to the folks on this board!
Albert |
Thanks for the tips. I don't even know what scale looks like, off to google ...
As for the windows, the place I have mine is in front of a sliding glass door on the southwest side of the house. It's really the only place I can put it and most days I leave the blinds shut on the slider because I don't want the place looking like a UFO when I leave in the dark in the morning and have that plant light on.
I think my flourescent lamp isn't cutting it. I have a seedling heat matt under the pot and the a kitchen thermometer says the soil is at 75F in the middle but the thing is still starting to drop leaves for some reason. Reading the winter guidelines thread I'm thinking that I'm not giving it enough light with this setup and with the lights hanging so far above. I wonder if pruning the top two branches and moving the lights much closer to the now level canopy will be enough or if I should look at getting a brighter MH grow light. |
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daytripper Citruholic
Joined: 18 Aug 2011 Posts: 28 Location: Long Island N.Y.
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Posted: Mon 03 Oct, 2011 10:50 am |
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Just leave the blinds open on the door and that should fix your problem. I have my setup next to a southe east facing bay window with 110W of cfl above it that stays on from 8am-4pm. You cant even tell from outside that the light is on unless it is a real dark and rainy day, and the sunlight gives you the full spectrum of light that the T5 lights you have dont. |
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DaveF Citruholic
Joined: 25 Jul 2009 Posts: 38 Location: Twin Cities, Minnesota
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Posted: Wed 05 Oct, 2011 12:59 am |
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Is this scale?
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