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Nutrient deficiency
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Ivannn
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Joined: 14 May 2009
Posts: 176
Location: Bologna, Italy

Posted: Sun 01 May, 2011 6:59 am

Millet, i am probably in the last case you said Very Happy

So it's a simple analog probe (from Tenax - mini pH meter, one can find it on line), very cheap - at the garden store i paid 13 euro, so i didn't have to think a lot about whether to buy it or not Smile and anyway it was the only probe apart from a similar object that could measure pH + humidity + light. I decided to trust the ph-only meter.
The pH range is 3 - 10.
This morning i measured lime juice and it said 3.5, so at least i can say that the measure given is maybe not accurate but at least around the real value.

Anyway i guess the most accurate measure is made by using distilled water to moisten the soil sample.
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Mark_T
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Joined: 30 Jun 2009
Posts: 757
Location: Gilbert,AZ

Posted: Sun 01 May, 2011 8:37 pm

Can someone recommend some decent PH meters that will last?
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Hershell
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Joined: 23 Nov 2009
Posts: 342
Location: Ga. zone 8

Posted: Sun 01 May, 2011 10:49 pm

Hanna 9811. I have had it about 12 years and it still works good. you have solution to calibrate it every time that you use it so you know that it is accurate. I do the pore through method so it works with any soil because you are testing water that has been in the soil.

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Hershell
Nothing in the world takes the place of growing citrus.
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GT
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Joined: 11 Jul 2010
Posts: 395
Location: Beaumont, TX (zone 9a)

Posted: Sun 01 May, 2011 11:53 pm

Ivann,

That sounds like mine that I tossed the same day i got it... The "light meter" is useless and the ph reading changes with the depth at which you stick the probe. Laughing Laughing Laughing

I ended up using a chemical one.

Good luck!
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Hershell
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Joined: 23 Nov 2009
Posts: 342
Location: Ga. zone 8

Posted: Mon 02 May, 2011 9:53 am

It does not have a light meter and you dont stick the probe in soil.

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Hershell
Nothing in the world takes the place of growing citrus.
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Ivannn
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Joined: 14 May 2009
Posts: 176
Location: Bologna, Italy

Posted: Mon 02 May, 2011 10:45 am

GT wrote:
Ivann,

That sounds like mine that I tossed the same day i got it... The "light meter" is useless and the ph reading changes with the depth at which you stick the probe. Laughing Laughing Laughing

I ended up using a chemical one.

Good luck!


Yes GT, i thought that the light measure was kind of strange! So i bought the "only pH" meter. It seems to work, but i have to find out how to not contaminate the soil pH with the water pH...lost battle i think! Very Happy
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Mark_T
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Joined: 30 Jun 2009
Posts: 757
Location: Gilbert,AZ

Posted: Mon 02 May, 2011 4:26 pm

Hershell wrote:
Hanna 9811. I have had it about 12 years and it still works good. you have solution to calibrate it every time that you use it so you know that it is accurate. I do the pore through method so it works with any soil because you are testing water that has been in the soil.


Thanks Hershell, I'll look into it.
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Hershell
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Joined: 23 Nov 2009
Posts: 342
Location: Ga. zone 8

Posted: Mon 02 May, 2011 11:21 pm

Mark. I bought it from Coor Farm Supply, You can ask them about it at 919-934-4573. Honestly I wouldn't spend $300 on a meter again but I bought it at a trade show where they had all brands on display and would actually let you use all of them to see if you liked it before you bought one. That was what sold me one this meter and I know other growers that use the same meter.

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Hershell
Nothing in the world takes the place of growing citrus.
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danero2004
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Joined: 19 Jun 2009
Posts: 523
Location: Romania Zone 6a

Posted: Tue 03 May, 2011 4:31 am

Now it is funny we started from nutrition deficiency and got into the PH meters Laughing Laughing Laughing
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Steve
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Joined: 10 Sep 2007
Posts: 253
Location: Southern Germany

Posted: Sat 07 May, 2011 7:23 pm

Evaldas wrote:
HERE it says "The ideal pH is 5 to 5.5."


Well, for many trifoliate stocks this pH will last very good, but for Citrus stocks and many hybrids, 6 to 6,5 is much better.
Because Calcium and Magnesium get very difficult available in soils with a pH of lower than 5 - but trifoliata thrives very well in such acid circumstances.

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Eerh, hmm, uuuh, oooh, just guessing Wink
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Skallywagz



Joined: 23 Sep 2010
Posts: 14
Location: McLennan County, Texas

Posted: Sun 08 May, 2011 7:43 pm

Going back to my original post... I've noticed now all of my trees are doing the same thing plus all of them have dying "branches" (more like twigs). The dying branches have 1 or 2 declining leaves or no leaves at all. I probably should had mentioned in my earlier post that the leaves fall without the stem. Ive trimmed off any dying wood and i orded some 25-5-15 that millit strongly recommends. Any ideas or is it just more symptoms from what was previously stated. I also recently pulled 1 out of the pot and the roots show new growth so no root rot if that was any concern.
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danero2004
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Joined: 19 Jun 2009
Posts: 523
Location: Romania Zone 6a

Posted: Mon 09 May, 2011 4:20 am

This behaviour is most common to something at root level - low aeration/burned roots from fertilizers/too much water(root rot) ....you must check immediately the roots...asap Shocked

Even tho.. you see new growth I still stick to my thinking , also leaves falling without stem is a WLD factor asa I remember well.
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Millet
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Joined: 13 Nov 2005
Posts: 6656
Location: Colorado

Posted: Mon 09 May, 2011 6:02 pm

I think what you are calling "branches" might be, or hopefully are, small to medium sized twigs. If so, it is common to have small twigs die from time to time year around. Twigs frequently lose the competition with their neighbors for nutrients, or with branches that are located in a more efficient location, and are better able to serve the tree. Every week I could go through my greenhouse, and clip off some dead twigs. Now if you are posting about more substantial branches, then that is another matter. - Millet (617-)
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danero2004
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Joined: 19 Jun 2009
Posts: 523
Location: Romania Zone 6a

Posted: Mon 09 May, 2011 6:18 pm

Millet how much nutrients does the CHC keep inside ? Regarding to how often we should apply any fertilizers , also at what ratio ? spring/summer/autumn/winter?
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Skallywagz



Joined: 23 Sep 2010
Posts: 14
Location: McLennan County, Texas

Posted: Mon 09 May, 2011 6:26 pm

Yes they smaller twigs. I guess I'm just so paranoid since I've had so much trouble growing these trees. One other question. When I made my soil mix last fall I added some dolomite to the mix. It says to reapply every spring which doesnt specify to container. Assuming that since they are in pots will the dolomite leach out faster and should I start using Epsome salts.
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