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Millet
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Posted: Thu 11 Aug, 2011 1:27 pm

Whether one uses Foliage Pro or not all depends on the pH of your tree's medium, and the pH of your water. It is mostly NO3. - Millet (523-)
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RyanL
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Posted: Thu 11 Aug, 2011 5:20 pm

Millet wrote:
Whether one uses Foliage Pro or not all depends on the pH of your tree's medium, and the pH of your water. It is mostly NO3. - Millet (523-)


I don't understand what you mean. You can adjust the PH of any nutrient solution before applying it to your tree and the medium will give or take, a small margin, hold that value until the next application. This is how I water my trees.

Example: soil is 7.0PH and I apply a 6.0 nutrient solution, the soil ph is quickly lowered to around 6.0-6.2. Most of us citrus growers prefer to use what would be considered a "soilless" medium IE: your beloved CHC, peat, wood chips, sand, ProMix, ect. these soilless mediums more or less hold a PH value if applied through amended water.

The liquid fertilizer Dynagro foliage pro should be a good choice for citrus, given the fact it is complete and has a good NPK for citrus. soil PH should not be a factor in choosing if this is a good fertilizer or not.
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Millet
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Posted: Thu 11 Aug, 2011 8:32 pm

Most nurseries of the world adjust the medium's pH by using the proper acid or basic fertilizer formulation. They don't adjust the pH with some acid or basic liquid every single time they intend to fertilize or water their crop. With using the proper fertilizer to fit the situation, from crop to crop, the medium becomes stable for a long duration. It would be a real hassle to adjust each and every time one wants to water. Ryan, I certainly hope you are not using vinegar. - Millet (523-)
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danero2004
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Posted: Fri 12 Aug, 2011 10:04 am

Millet , I agree with Ryan that a good fertilizers with a proper PH level with set the PH in our "chc soil" to the desired level , and not by using chemicals but only the fertilizer itself.

I was reading about vinegar , and even that many nurseries might this or sulphur to control PH level , and I've used to put a tablespoon of vinegar to 2 gallons of water but not for decreasing the PH but only to cut some of the water hardiness.

So , is it real that vinegar will help getting the right PH?
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Millet
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Posted: Fri 12 Aug, 2011 12:15 pm

Ryan finding a fertilizer with a 6.0 - 6.5 pH has nothing to do with adjusting the pH of a medium. I think I will just pass on this discussion. It would take to long, and I just don't have the time. However if you are interested you can read about it in "Understanding pH Management".

I would say from looking at the pictures of your trees that you posted on this forum, all the time and process that you have put into them is certainly agreeable with your trees. They look very nice indeed. - Millet (522-)
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RyanL
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Posted: Fri 12 Aug, 2011 12:42 pm

Millet wrote:
Ryan finding a fertilizer with a 6.0 - 6.5 pH has nothing to do with adjusting the pH of a medium. I think I will just pass on this discussion. It would take to long, and I just don't have the time. However if you are interested you can read about it in "Understanding pH Management".

I would say from looking at the pictures of your trees that you posted on this forum, all the time and process that you have put into them is certainly agreeable with your trees. They look very nice indeed. - Millet (522-)


I agree, and that's why I deiced to delete my last post, but you read and responded so quickly. I think its fair to say we both understand PH management, so for anyone else interested on further explanation on PH refer to Millet's above post. And thank you, about my trees.
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lkailburn



Joined: 14 Jul 2011
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Location: Zone 4b Colorado

Posted: Sat 13 Aug, 2011 12:37 pm

can i add in one other question to this topic? At what frequency are you all fertilizing at?

-Luke
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Evaldas
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Posted: Sat 13 Aug, 2011 1:40 pm

lkailburn wrote:
can i add in one other question to this topic? At what frequency are you all fertilizing at?

-Luke

Every watering, 250 ppmN solution.
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danero2004
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Posted: Sat 13 Aug, 2011 2:06 pm

Evaldas , isn't too much at every watering ? Due to the high aerated bark or chc mix I need to water every day and sometimes 2 times a day , so doing like you say aren't going to burn the tip of the roots?
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Evaldas
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Posted: Sat 13 Aug, 2011 2:26 pm

danero2004 wrote:
Evaldas , isn't too much at every watering ? Due to the high aerated bark or chc mix I need to water every day and sometimes 2 times a day , so doing like you say aren't going to burn the tip of the roots?

I water much less frequently, the most frequent would probably be every 4 days (in the summer).
I started now, before applying fertilizer solution, to add little amount of water to moisten the soil (depending on the size of the pot, for 12cm diameter about 100ml, for 21 cm ~500ml).
How do you fertilize?
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danero2004
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Posted: Sat 13 Aug, 2011 3:25 pm

I followed the Millet advice to fertilise at 15 days , but I do a 7 day foliar feed , and until know I don't have salts acumulated neither burned roots , just a little on N on some of them , but I just feed them with some high N and they begin to colour up again
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Sven_limoen
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Posted: Wed 17 Aug, 2011 8:42 am

danero2004 wrote:
I do a 7 day foliar feed , and until know I don't have salts acumulated neither burned roots , just a little on N on some of them , but I just feed them with some high N and they begin to colour up again


N as in nitrogen? In what form can you buy that and where?

_________________
growing (at least trying): C. sinensis, C. latifolia, C. limon, C. mitis
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danero2004
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Posted: Wed 17 Aug, 2011 11:44 am

I've used 30-10-10 from scotts proffesional. I don't have pure N Smile
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Millet
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Posted: Wed 17 Aug, 2011 12:05 pm

30-10-10 is a very acid (H+) producing fertilizer. 30-10-10 has 1,039 pounds of acidity for every 2,000 pounds of fertilizer. A good fertilizer when there is a need to lower the pH of a growth medium. - Millet (518-)
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danero2004
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Posted: Wed 17 Aug, 2011 5:32 pm

The PH is now 6 at last measurement , and was a high need of Nitrogen , I usually use 23-6-10 (UNIVERSOL 23+6+10+3MgO+ME Green) which have the biggest Mg ratio of all. I use as here I was adviced 1 gr/1L water and also Scotts recom' using the same ratio 1gr/1L/week.

This it the product and have a 4-1-2 ratio close to 5-1-3 required , although this was a ratio recorded in plain field and not in a pot



And this is the other one to recover the lost N from the soil , I used it twice in a row 2 weeks , and than back to 23-6-10

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