I live in Virginia and have 2 6' trees. one washington navel tree, and one Myer lemon tree. When i recieved them they were healthy with green leaves. I potted them and the leaves started either falling off or drying/crincling up. It looks like now where the old leaves where are these thorns. Will the leaves grow back and is the tree just in shock from traveling from CA to virginia and then being potted. I do have southern exposure on them as well as grow lights that are red right now. I heard when they flower that is the color to use. I also have blue as well. Any insight would be great. I love growing my citrus trees. I did just use fast draining potting soil, and then stones on the top to keep the cats from digging at the plant. Once again thanks.

Welcome to The Citrus Growers Forum. We are pleased that you have became a member. Because the tree discarded its leaves soon after re-potting, the cause is almost certain to be either root damage, as a result of the transplanting, or Winter Leaf Drop (WLD). Placed in front of a south facing window, the tree's leaf blades can easily heat up to temperatures of 110+F. What is the temperature of the container's potting mix? NOTE: it will be cooler than the room temperature. If your not familiar with WLD you can read about it using the search function on this form. A very valuable item to have if you grow containerized citrus is a soil thermomether. Again Welcome. - Millet (699-)

I tested the ph and it came in at 5.8 and the temp of the soil was about 63 F. The myer lemon tree is flowering and growing lemons, just the leafs are falling off. The orange tree is hurting bad. All leafs are crumbled off, but most of the branches look green. Is the plant just in shock. Thanks for the help.

If the potting mix is 63F then the tree's condition is not a result of WLD, unless, of course, the potting soil became too dry. Shock from the move maybe, but I rather guess it is shock/root damage from transplanting, especially due to the dry leaves. However, it is hard to tell for sure, as your tree is in Virginia and I am in Colorado. Did you remove some of the medium when you transplanted? It is very hard on a citrus to loose all of its leaves, but if it has to happen this is the best time of year with the days getting warmer and longer. Anyway, the best to you and your two trees. - Millet (699-)

I did remove some of it, but maybe not enough. I will keep lots of light on it. Is there anything else i can do to help it. I will try to take some photos so you see what i mean by it looks like new leaves are growing on it. Thanks again for all your help.

You said there are thorns where the old leaves were. Are they really thorns, i.e. they were there when you received the tree? Or are they new growth, that look like little strings coming out from where the leaf fell off?

An FYI If your tree is in shock, it may likely produce hundreds of buds which become small flowers. Sort of like the tree thinks it's going to die so it tries to flower to produce seeds so its offspring can live on. Even in that case, there is still hope.

I would not suggest you put too much stress on the tree, which could even be keeping it under lights and direct sunlight for too long or it gets too hot. You want it in as much morning sunlight as possible, but when stressed usually best if it's indirect bright light. I wouldn't have it lit more than 8 hours at this point. Unless you see lots of new leaves (not flower buds) forthcoming, then treat it more like normal.

Yes pictures would be extremely helpful.

They thorns are new growth. It looks like the tree is slowly growing new leaves. I mean real slow. I am just watching how i water it and misting it. I did get a new navel tree about 5' tall with a bunch of flowers. I put peat moss, sand, and wood chips as the soil and this seems to be doing much much better. The soil is about 63, does that need to be higher, and if it does how can i increase the soil temp. Also under my grow lights i have pink going now, is that correct or should i put the blue bulbs in.

Soil temp at 63 is OK, it's not great. It's all in balancing the relationship between how much light vs. root activity is gets. The roots practically shutdown at 55F, so at 63 they are active but won't keep up with lots of direct sunlight or lamps. There are other posts regarding soil temps, like wrapping the outside of the container in Christmas tree lights (the old style that give off heat). If the container in direct sun for the morning, you can always wrap it with bubble wrap, too. See how far that will get the temp to rise. I've done that before and it works great. Once you get to 75 you should be doing very well. Even 70 eliminates a lot of the worries about excessive light.

You might try creating a new post and asking the question about the grow lights I don't have any experience (at all) using lights for growth.

But I do know you are NOT trying to get your trees to flower. So putting special lights trying to induce, or keeping them within the flowering stage, is not what you'd do for a stressed tree.

For your new post, try to take a picture of the tree (as of today) so we can see how far it's come. And also include the current soil temp.