Hi!
I was thinking how fun it would be to grow my own Calamondin plants from seeds, since I have a fruiting tree. So I thought I'd give it a go in spring, but before I'd like some questions answered .
1. What diameter pots should I choose to plant the seeds in?
2. Do I put only one seed in one pot? Do they germinate well or bad? How long after putting them into the soil they germinate?
3. Into what soil I should plant the seeds? The same mixture of peat moss and pine bark? They sell some sort of special soil for plant sprouting...
4. NOW I would like to grow little Calamondin trees, not bushes, and I also wouldn't like a long stick growing out of it, with some leaves on the very top, as many lemon seedlings grow... Are there any steps of what and when I should prune to achieve this?
5. And finally: right now on my Calamondin there's only fruits that are starting to get ripe, no ripe fruits at the moment. When is it OK to use seeds from a fruit? Only when it's completely ripe?

And another question:
I was told recently that citrus seedlings' tops of the roots have to be pruned on the first transplantation (after about 6 months) so that they would branch out, because the main root may simply grow and circle around. Is this true?

Evaldas, to answer your question on germinating citrus seeds.

1). A 4 inch pot works well for germinating seeds.

2). You can put either 1 seed or more seed in the same container. I normally just put one. If your Calamondin seed are fresh they should germinate well. Seeds should germinate in 12 to 21 days if kept at 86 to 90F. Sooner if you peel off the testa (hard outer seed coat).

3).You can plant seeds in any good commercial potting soil.

4). Your Calamondin should grow into a nice standard tree if you insure good sun light and protect against the root system from becoming root bound.

5). I would wait until the fruit is ripe.

Good luck. - Millet (1.055-)

Citrus grown from seed produce long central tap roots, which will begin to circle aground after the tap root hits the bottom of the container. If you cut the tap root at that point, it will produce lateral roots. This is what a air root pruning container accomplishes. See the "4 Inch Rule" on the Internet link below. - Millet (1,055-)

http://www.rootmaker.com/docs/4inchRuleWeb.pdf

OK, some more questions:
What are the chances that if I prune my Calamondin seedlings, in order for them to branch, they would bloom later? Because in this forum everyone mentions that if you prune a citrus seedling it won't bloom, but in my country's forums everyone says that you're SUPPOSED to prune your citrus seedlings if you want them to bloom quicker.

Let's imagine I want to grow my Calamondin seedlings so that they would be suitable for grafting a year later:
They should be grown like long sticks with leaves without allowing them to branch, correct?
Where can I find this info on the internet about grafting? Cos what I've read till now was very confusing, I don't understand what branches of a blooming citrus should be used for grafting, what size and etc...
I mean is there any place that describes this shortly but in a detailed way? How the grafting should be done and etc....

I always top (prune) my seedlings at about 18" this forces the plant to branch and if it does delay fruiting, it would not be by much.

Most of your budding and grafting questions relate to the physical techniques and tools. You can start with very fine sticks and razor blades for cutting, it can be hard to tape up at the end which is probably the main limitation here.
As you try to use older, thicker, woody budwood, the knife will have a harder task.
Basically you have to be able to make the required cuts, to remove the buds then insert them in the stock etc, or shape the scion for grafting.
It is a matter of tools( knives and tape ) and more importantly practice.

If you look at the recent picture of the Australian Sunrise Lime tree



On the far right is a large tall rounded thick shoot, thornless with large leaves and evenly spaced buds, which could be cut as a budstick, easy to cut good size flat buds.
A similar more angular shoot can be seen at the top middle.
Lower down thinner, thornless upright shoots can also be seen, also ok if they have hardened off enough.
These type of shoots might be expected to produce similar types of growth when the budded trees produce their shoots.
On the far top left are some very thorny thin shoots growing up at an angle. These could also be cut as budsticks, as long as you can cut flat backs to them when budding. They may produce thorny bushy growth at first, but later send up a vertical leader.
As you look lower down on the tree, more possible budsticks can be seen, although the buds are more closely spaced, and sticks thinner.
After budding, some of these may not flush as quickly as those from top growth budsticks. Also removing these may chop your tree up too much.

Ok.. thanks

Another question: why do seedlings are less likely to bloom that are pruned, than those that aren't? What is the reasoning for this? What way a seedling grown is most likely to bloom?

It is generally thought that to achieve fruiting, a citrus seedling must reach a certain size, or more correctly node count. Age alone will not lead to fruiting.
Any pruning retards growth, and reduces the node count, which delays the time to first flowering. Regular pruning will simply delay the maturity process.

A citrus tree started from seed will mature, and begin fruiting, only after growing its required number of nodes (required node count). A node is the point where a leaf is attached to the tree. Soon after a citrus seed germinates, it produces it first leaf (first node). A little later the tree grows higher and produces it second leaf (second node), then taller to produce its third leaf (third node). As time passes, the tree grows taller and taller, thus producing more and more nodes, until finally one day the the tree has grown tall enough to reach its required node count, then the tree becomes mature and begins to produce fruit. For orange trees, this can take as long as 8 to 10 years. When a seedling tree is top pruned back, it reduces the node count, plus stops the node count from progressing. Cutting off the top of a seedling tree stops the tree from growing taller, and causes the tree to begin producing side branching. The nodes produced by side branching do not directly count toward the required node count. Therefore, every time a citrus tree is top pruned, it delays the tree from achieving its required node count to become mature, thus extending the waiting time for any fruit production. As Laaz points out, pruning will produce a fuller looking tree, but also extends the amount of time before the tree will produce fruit. It is a matter of choice for the grower. - Millet (1,052-)

Interesting info Millet!

So in the case where the seedling's apical "trunk" is pruned for a fuller branched tree, if the node count stops, when DOES the node count resume?

When you cut the tree's central leader, after a time the axillary bud just below where the cut was made will begin to grow a new central leader, which once again picks up the node count. However, in cases where a cut has eliminated a good amount of the trees top, the count will once again have to start all over at what ever the node count number was at the point where the cut was made. - Millet (1043-)