It would appear to me that one would have the easiest time and get quality budwood if he cut it in Feb here in S Louisiana. That wood would be from the last flush of the summer (June) and would be dormant in Feb. Am I correct in assuming that the time to graft would be just before the first Spring flush here....(March)?????
My citurs goes through about 4 flushes during the year. Several of them are in the Summer time....March , July.....I would also assume that one could graft during any of these flushes if he had budwood and temps below roasting (about 80 degrees or so). Someone tell me if I have arreved at a suitable conclusion with correct information from my gleanings and work. I guess it might be simiple to say ...........dont graft when.........................but I find that during times that you ........should not graft.........there are some periods the things work out fine..........Share and shine some light on what I have said here................I could be wrong and I dont want to be wrong............I want to know the "right" times to graft......................

We were just posting about that. The best budwood comes from 3rd flush wood--wood that has 2 flushes past it. When citrus first flushes the wood is very angular, making it difficult to get a good fit when you try to insert the bud. That same wood or part of the stem, gets a little more round but is still somewhat angular after the next flush--this is 2nd flush wood and is usable, but 3rd flush wood is almost perfectly round and fits well on pencil size stock.

As for time to graft, it depends somewhat on the type of graft, I have had much more success with bark grafting when it is hot (mid summer) compared to T-budding. However, T-budding has worked well for me in the spring and late fall when highs are 70 to 80. For T-budding the bark has to be slipping, and that usually means the tree is flushing. I think it is even better to select a limb that is flushing.

If you graft in the fall, you have to wait until spring to force the buds.

My preferance is to bud in the fall after the day temp drops below 90 degrees f. At that time the best budwood is next to the last flush of growth. It is round and hardened off. The budwood can be taken and used immediately. For fall budding it is wise to give the understock a shot of fertilizer about a month before fall budding time. If white line have developed on the stems of the budwood the buds will be difficult to get to grow (force) Preferabley store in a zip lok bag and kept cool. I use freeze blocks with a bubble wrapping covering the blocks in an ice chest. Fall buds are left wrapped 5 weeks and then forced in the spring.
For spring budding the budwood needs to cut before the buds start forcing. In our area this about the middle of February for satsumas and about the first of February for round oranges and grapefruit. the leaves are clipped off and placed in a zip lok bag and stored in the refrig crisper until the bark will slip on the understock in the spring.
A lot of this I learned from Fletcher Granberry at DeRidder Louisiana in the late 1960s. He was budding citrus in the 1920s when he was in his teens He died in the early 1960s. I was fortunate to have known him as a teacher and a friend. Fletcher would start his fall budding after the first good rain after labor day.
My preferance for understock to bud is one year old whips before the develop side branches.