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luteo
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Joined: 18 Feb 2012
Posts: 37
Location: Ohio

Posted: Sat 31 Mar, 2012 9:49 pm

Here are the seedlings I have so far. Sorry for the poor image quality. Only have a camera on my phone:

Honey Tangerine
http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/949/honeytangerine.jpg

Lemon
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/3254/lemonbh.jpg

Unknown tangerine
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/4779/tangerine.jpg

I have a bout 11 or so more varieties that should sprout soon I hope.
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Millet
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Joined: 13 Nov 2005
Posts: 6657
Location: Colorado

Posted: Sun 01 Apr, 2012 12:33 am

To reduce the possibility of stem rot fungi, water your seedlings only in the morning, then set them in the direct sunlight so that the surface layer of the medium quickly dries. Stem rot, a frequent killer of young citrus seedlings, requires moisture to develop. Good luck with your plants. - Millet (295 BO-)
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Mark_T
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Joined: 30 Jun 2009
Posts: 757
Location: Gilbert,AZ

Posted: Sun 01 Apr, 2012 3:31 am

Millet wrote:
To reduce the possibility of stem rot fungi, water your seedlings only in the morning, then set them in the direct sunlight so that the surface layer of the medium quickly dries. Stem rot, a frequent killer of young citrus seedlings, requires moisture to develop. Good luck with your plants. - Millet (295 BO-)


Would stem rot fungi, cause seedling top die back? That has been my most frequent seedling challenge.
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Millet
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Joined: 13 Nov 2005
Posts: 6657
Location: Colorado

Posted: Sun 01 Apr, 2012 1:11 pm

Mark, I don't know what you mean by seedling top die back. Stem rot attracts the young seedling's stem at the point where the stem meets the soil. This spot on the stem turns brow dies, then the entire seeding wilts and dies.- Millet
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luteo
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Joined: 18 Feb 2012
Posts: 37
Location: Ohio

Posted: Sun 01 Apr, 2012 5:21 pm

Thanks Millet. I am actually on a more nocturnal schedule at the moment. So everything gets watered in the afternoon instead of the morning. I will keep an eye on things though. I have gone digging and found a few moldy seeds Crying or Very sad This medium is very uneven in water retention it appears. I think I shall make my own in the future.
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Laaz
Site Owner
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Joined: 12 Nov 2005
Posts: 5653
Location: Dorchester County, South Carolina

Posted: Sun 01 Apr, 2012 5:37 pm

Good luck with them. I have found that most citrus grown from seed will fruit in 3-4 years. The exception in my case was the grapefruit which took 6. My times may be a bit quicker as my zone is 9a and we only get a few nights below freezing... Very Happy

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cristofre
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Joined: 09 Mar 2010
Posts: 200
Location: Clayton, Georgia USA zone 7B/8A

Posted: Mon 02 Apr, 2012 2:35 pm

Laaz wrote:
Good luck with them. I have found that most citrus grown from seed will fruit in 3-4 years. The exception in my case was the grapefruit which took 6. My times may be a bit quicker as my zone is 9a and we old get a few nights below freezing... Very Happy


Thats good to know. Being that I have no money for buying expensive trees, I am currently growing 30-40 citrus trees from seed including trifoliate orange, kumquats, mandarins, Meyer Lemon.

I have one container tree I started from a baby that is close to 10 years old now and it has never flowered yet though. I don't even know what variety it is.
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Laaz
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Joined: 12 Nov 2005
Posts: 5653
Location: Dorchester County, South Carolina

Posted: Mon 02 Apr, 2012 2:38 pm

Keep them well fertilized & watered and they should do well for you. You do know Meyer will not come true from seed... I am also talking about in-ground trees.

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luteo
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Joined: 18 Feb 2012
Posts: 37
Location: Ohio

Posted: Mon 02 Apr, 2012 6:41 pm

I'll be growing in containers, inside except for summer. So I imagine it will take longer to get to fruit. But I am still quite young and have tons of patience. Wink

There are a few varieties I won't ever get by seed, so learning to bud may be in the near future. Maybe I am vain, but the visual appeal of most grafts I do not like. Budding seems to be the least unattractive graft.

So deciding on and starting some rootstock is the next step.

I do ponder something. I understand not to prune back an immature citrus, as this will reduce the node count and all. But what about snipping a leaf bud at the tip of growth? Say if I want a bushier, stocky trunk/set of branches. This wouldn't be as drastic as pruning, and the multiple shoots that sprout would add more nodes right? Maybe a bad idea?

I just don't have a lot of space. So some citrus I want short, others taller. Mostly to maximize air space. And it might be a little while before I am settled down. I can't imagine moving big barrels of citrus Shocked
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Laaz
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Joined: 12 Nov 2005
Posts: 5653
Location: Dorchester County, South Carolina

Posted: Mon 02 Apr, 2012 7:10 pm

Yes, you are correct. Most seedling citrus first grow straight up like a bean stalk. What I do is top them at about 18" to 24". This causes the tree to flush out down below & makes a much nicer looking tree.

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luteo
Citruholic
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Joined: 18 Feb 2012
Posts: 37
Location: Ohio

Posted: Mon 16 Apr, 2012 5:31 pm

I found some seeds in Shasta Gold fruit. I doubt they will be true because of the Temple in it's background. The seeds look about like my lemon seeds did, which all came up mono embryonic. I'll plant them and see what happens anyways.
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luteo
Citruholic
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Joined: 18 Feb 2012
Posts: 37
Location: Ohio

Posted: Wed 25 Apr, 2012 4:14 am

Instead of starting a new thread, I thought I'd keep to this one.

Right now my seedlings are under a light, which sits about 15 in. above the tip of the plants. I am wondering if this is too close? My potting mix seems to dry out almost in a day on the top half and then the bottom half of the pot stays moist. I only know this because my pots are clear.

I am thinking the roots are only in the top half at this point, and along with the light being too close might explain this uneven drying. This is all a problem because? you might ask. Well, the seedlings are a bit wilted and not really growing at all. Just kind of sitting here a bit droopy.

What do you think? I should increase the distance between the light and the seedlings so the top soil doesn't dry out so fast? This might give them more time to soak up the water/nutrients?
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