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How to Induce Flowering and Fruiting in Young Grafted Citrus
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jcaldeira
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Joined: 06 Jan 2012
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Location: Fiji Islands

Posted: Fri 16 Nov, 2012 3:01 am

It is a huge selling advantage if a nursery can sell flowering or fruiting citrus, compared to their non-fruiting equivilent. How do they induce flowering? Is it chemically, or a drought stress?

I'd like to induce flowering and fruiting in some of my citrus grafts in bags that I plan to give to friends.

Thanks,
John
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Millet
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Posted: Fri 16 Nov, 2012 4:07 am

One of he fasted methods is by grafting a mature bud, onto a root stock. After grafting the plant should flower in 1-2 years. You can speed growth by maintaining the roots at approx 80F while artificially lighting the tree to extend the "daylight" to 15 hours per day. Doing so should produce 5 flushes of new growth per year. -Millet
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jcaldeira
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Posted: Fri 16 Nov, 2012 5:29 am

Millet, I do the grafting already. I'm asking specifically on how to induce flowering as the commercial nurseries appear to be doing. Do you think it's an artificial daylight extension? My thinking is that it's a foliar spray(?)
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Sanguinello
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Posted: Fri 16 Nov, 2012 5:52 am

There are hormones, which induce flowers, but I have no idea if they are used ...
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jcaldeira
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Posted: Fri 16 Nov, 2012 5:53 am

Sanguinello wrote:
There are hormones, which induce flowers, but I have no idea if they are used ...


Me too. That's why I am asking.
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ilyaC
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Posted: Fri 16 Nov, 2012 11:23 am

Chemical retardants interfering with gibberellin production are used to shorten juvenile phase and to induce out of season flowering.
Below are some links to the action of one of them - paclobutrazol.

http://www.jhortscib.org/Vol69/69_1/21.htm

http://www.fshs.org/Proceedings/Password%20Protected/1995%20Vol.%20108/361-364%20%28URRUTIA%29.pdf

http://nepjol.info/index.php/JIAAS/article/view/661

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hoosierquilt
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Joined: 25 Oct 2010
Posts: 971
Location: Vista, California USA

Posted: Fri 16 Nov, 2012 2:22 pm

This is a very interesting question, as I bought a couple of young grafted liner trees (very young, first year) from Citrus Tree Source. I re-potted them, and when I was watering my Buddha's Hand (not kidding), I noticed it was blooming. I was pretty shocked, especially this particular cultivar, which can be hard to bloom and fruit for some folks. Now, the Lee x Nova is just being a young tree, no blooms, and growing slowly. I don't know if this is just the fact that I'm in a climate that is very conducive to lemons, or if Citrus Tree Source treats their young seedlings to promote early blossoms. I have a call into them, and I can ask what they do, if anything. It could be how they fertilize, but frankly, most commercial tree growers growing trees for dooryard orchard culture tend to fertilizer with straight nitrogen or a very high N fertilizer to promote dark green, leafy growth. Curious question.

Buddha's Hand Citron

Buddha's Hand blossoms

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Patty S.
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Laaz
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Joined: 12 Nov 2005
Posts: 5674
Location: Dorchester County, South Carolina

Posted: Fri 16 Nov, 2012 2:25 pm

From my experience a period of cool weather will start the lemons / citrons blooming.

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hoosierquilt
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Joined: 25 Oct 2010
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Location: Vista, California USA

Posted: Fri 16 Nov, 2012 2:39 pm

Ah, well then. Just like my limes. We finally had a break in our hot, hot weather about 2 weeks ago. Both my Bearrs and Thornless Mexican limes are blooming/have bloomed. I'll have to go check my Mystery lemon tree more closely, and my Meyer. My Palestine lime seems to be much like my Meyer - constantly in a full cycle of everything. All those beautiful, insipid fruits I just toss. I need to call Millet and have him come over and take care of things. I just am too much of a softie, I guess.

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Patty S.
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Sanguinello
Gest





Posted: Fri 16 Nov, 2012 3:06 pm

In my experience, rooted cuts/air layers bloom much sooner than grafts.
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Malcolm_Manners
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Joined: 13 Nov 2005
Posts: 676
Location: Lakeland Florida

Posted: Fri 16 Nov, 2012 3:14 pm

Drought will pop most citrus into immediate bloom. Don't dry them enough to drop all the leaves off, but do let them wilt. Most will then flower on the next flush of growth. Once flowering has been induced, you need to go back to providing a good, steady water supply so they'll set fruit rather than drop all the flowers off. The drought stress is just to initiate the formation of flower buds.
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Sanguinello
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Posted: Fri 16 Nov, 2012 3:27 pm

Verdelli Method of Sicily
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hoosierquilt
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Posted: Fri 16 Nov, 2012 3:52 pm

Quote:
Verdelli Method of Sicily


Here's a synopsis of the Verdelli Process I found online:

"After the lemon tree is more than 1 year old, stop watering the tree during the summer season for around 35 to 60 days until the leaves begin to wilt. Then heavily irrigate the lemon tree and fertilize it with a high-nitrogen-content fertilizer. This technique, known as the Verdelli process, will force the tree into bloom in August or early September."

This is naturally what happens here in S. California in the summer, especially if I do not adjust my drip system. I don't completely stop watering, but by virtue of our temperatures rising, and we had a long, prolonged heat wave here in September, we ended up with something rather similar. So, after I put down a fertilizer application, which I did at the end of October, I ended up with a lot of blossoms popping up. Very interesting.

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Patty S.
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Sanguinello
Gest





Posted: Fri 16 Nov, 2012 3:55 pm

Same can be done in pots, but very carefully.

In pots all is happening much faster and the leaves should only wilt a bit ...
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jcaldeira
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Joined: 06 Jan 2012
Posts: 98
Location: Fiji Islands

Posted: Fri 16 Nov, 2012 6:54 pm

hoosierquilt wrote:
Quote:
Verdelli Method of Sicily

Here's a synopsis of the Verdelli Process I found online:

"After the lemon tree is more than 1 year old, stop watering the tree during the summer season for around 35 to 60 days until the leaves begin to wilt. Then heavily irrigate the lemon tree and fertilize it with a high-nitrogen-content fertilizer. This technique, known as the Verdelli process, will force the tree into bloom in August or early September."

This is naturally what happens here in S. California in the summer, especially if I do not adjust my drip system. I don't completely stop watering, but by virtue of our temperatures rising, and we had a long, prolonged heat wave here in September, we ended up with something rather similar. So, after I put down a fertilizer application, which I did at the end of October, I ended up with a lot of blossoms popping up. Very interesting.

This drought cycle also happens naturally here in Fiji. I'll have to try fertilizing with nitrogen when the post-drought rains come.

Paclobutrazol, mentioned in one of the earlier links in this thread, may help.

If anyone can find out what commercial nurseries are doing to stimulate flowering, I'd really like to know.

John
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