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brewcider
Joined: 26 Jul 2007 Posts: 24 Location: Poway, CA (San Diego County Inland) Zone 10
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Posted: Tue 31 Jul, 2007 3:45 pm |
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I recently bought my house that had a bunch of fruit trees that weren't cared for. This Orange tree was the sickest of them all. I recenty pulled all the ice plant away from the tree and formed a ring to collect the water and fertilized the tree. Just this weekend I switched from watering for 7 minutes every morning to 10 minutes every other day. I thought the soil needed times between watering to dry out a little. The trunk splits into two sides and the left side is very dark for some reason. I don't know what that is. The leaves are all very small and not very green. It is producing some small fruit after I put a couple cups of fertilizer on it a couple weeks ago. It may be on the rebound but I'm a beginner so I wanted to see if I'm on the right track.
Thanks!
Travis
San Diego, CA
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bastrees Citruholic
Joined: 16 Jun 2007 Posts: 232 Location: Southeastern PA
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Posted: Tue 31 Jul, 2007 7:05 pm |
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Travis, Please do not act on what I say, but wait for the experts. You will know them when you hear what they have to say. I am just looking at your tree and basing this response on what I have read from everyone here. I just want to test what I have learned to date, really.
It looks to me as though you have a grafted tree, and the difference in appearance is due to the rootstock. It appears that the rootstock has started growing (years ago from the looks of it) and you actually have the intended tree on one side and the rootstock on the other. I also see the difference in the leaves (triple on one side, single on the other). I also think I see some sooty mold, which indicates an insect problem. There also looks to be a mineral difficiency, but I could not begin to try to tell you what mineral. Your watering practices may also be extreme, but I will leave it there because I know nothing about your climate. I am from PA and am in a whole different ball game, really. (Just starting container citrus). I wish you luck and know you will get all the help you need right here.
Kind regards, Barbara |
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Millet Citruholic
Joined: 13 Nov 2005 Posts: 6657 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Tue 31 Jul, 2007 7:38 pm |
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Barbara is completely right on. I can tell by looking at your pictures, that the trees have not been given proper care for a considerable amount of time. As Barbara said, the root stock has taken over your tree. Your tree is a grafted tree, meaning that the rootstock and the scion (the top part of the tree) are not the same variety. The scion was grafted upon the rootstock when it was a new tree. The tree's rootstock is a variety of poncirus trifoliata or one of its hybrids, and needs to be cut completely out. All of the branches that have trifoliate leaves, the ones in a three leaf cluster (sort of looks like a clover) need to be totally removed. The tree also has other nutritional problems, but I'll let someone else answer those concerns. - Millet |
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Skeeter Moderator
Joined: 23 Jul 2006 Posts: 2218 Location: Pensacola, FL zone 9
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Posted: Tue 31 Jul, 2007 9:15 pm |
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Barbara is right about your watering practice as well--established citrus in ground should not need watering unless you are in a serious drought. In that case, only water when the soil is dry at least 2-3 inches deep, which in most cases will be less than once a week. _________________ Skeet
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bastrees Citruholic
Joined: 16 Jun 2007 Posts: 232 Location: Southeastern PA
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Posted: Tue 31 Jul, 2007 11:21 pm |
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I don't talk much, but I've been listening! Travis, I told you they would chime in! Barbara |
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Laaz Site Owner
Joined: 12 Nov 2005 Posts: 5657 Location: Dorchester County, South Carolina
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Posted: Wed 01 Aug, 2007 12:07 am |
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The red line looks like it is Trifoliata. If you know how to graft you cold use this for other varieties or to graft the same variety as the other side to it. If you don't know how to graft it must be removed ASAP. Also any new growth you see with the trifoliata leaves must be removed. You need to keep on top of this, as the Trifoliata will continue to grow out if not kept in check.
As far as nutritional problems, I'm not so sure there is a problem. It very well could be that the Trifoliata is sucking up all the nutrients as that side of the tree looks nice and green....
I would really like to see a close up of the base of the tree. _________________ Wal-Mart a great place to buy cheap plastic crap ! http://walmartwatch.com/ ...
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brewcider
Joined: 26 Jul 2007 Posts: 24 Location: Poway, CA (San Diego County Inland) Zone 10
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Posted: Wed 01 Aug, 2007 2:19 am |
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Laaz Site Owner
Joined: 12 Nov 2005 Posts: 5657 Location: Dorchester County, South Carolina
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Posted: Wed 01 Aug, 2007 8:43 am |
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You have to completely remove it. Cut it as flush as you can, otherwise it will keep sprouting on that stump. The original graft line is clearly visible in that close up. Spray it with some ultra fine and you should be good to go. _________________ Wal-Mart a great place to buy cheap plastic crap ! http://walmartwatch.com/ ...
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Millet Citruholic
Joined: 13 Nov 2005 Posts: 6657 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Wed 01 Aug, 2007 10:55 am |
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The leaves on your tree certainly show a light yellowish green deficiency, and need to be fertilized. It is recommended that an in ground citrus tree that is 5+ years old be fertilized with a fertilizer having a formulation such as 10-10-10. Citrus trees should be fertilized every year, healthy or not. Normally three applications from early spring to mid summer at a rate of 3 1/2 to 4-1/2 per pounds per application, broadcast from near the trunk to one foot past the trees drip line. Good luck to your tree. - Millet |
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Ned Citrus Guru
Joined: 14 Nov 2005 Posts: 999 Location: Port Royal, SC (Zone 8b)
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Posted: Wed 01 Aug, 2007 2:13 pm |
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You are getting good advice. I would think that removing all vegetation to 2' beyond the drip line of the tree would also be advisable. You might want to move the rocks to the same point or do away with them.
The idea with the stub is to prune it close enough that the tree can heal itself by growing over the resulting wound. The stub will prevent this. I see a swollen area at the point the stub connects to the tree. It is hard to say for sure, without being there, but I believe I would make the cut there. You might want to check out a web site or book about making such a cut before actually cutting.
Be interesting to see a before and after picture a year from now at this post. |
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