Sometimes, triangular stems are the only ones I get from UCR, so I use them anyway, and the success rates, although are lower than those budwoods that I would cut myself, are still quite acceptable, about >60%. What I do is make multiple T-buds, and even though half of them would fail, I would get 100% success of adding the cultivar. I usually do at least 3 T-buds for a variety when budstick is triangular. Also, I would bark graft the last portion of the stem that contains one or couple of buds that I think wouldn't make it. The bark grafts have about 75% success rate.

I wait until I am sure the bud has taken, and what I would term "set". I believe I have read that it takes a little time time, after the bud has initially healed, before the vascular connections are complete, but I better be careful here, my old memory might cause me to provide inaccurate info.

Anyway, when it first takes, I feel that a bud has not knited to the rootstock competely. Depending on the weather, I will allow 3 to 6 weeks - don't get in a hurry. When it is hot, the bud can actually take in a week or less to "take", but that is too soon to remove the tape.

In regards to bending the rootstock, you would bend it at the same time you would otherwise cut it, after the bud has taken and had a little time to heal.

This next little bit may be unecessary for most of you, but it makes it clearer as to what is going on in the plant. The parts of the plant above the bud cause it to remain dormant through a hormone called auxin, in a process call apical dominance. The auxin travels down the stem and keeps lower buds from sprouting. If you bend the stem, so that it is lower than the new bud, the hormones are unable to reach the bud, it thus is freed from apical dominance, and can begin growing. Same thing happens when you cut the stem off.

Sometimes you will read that you can cut a notch above the bud and cause it to sprout. The notch prevents the hormone from reaching the bud and thus frees the bud from apical dominance.

Thanks guys.
Nice explanation Ned.

I saw a bit of that in my Meiwa- I had about 5 straps on the training rod that kept the trunk straight while growing, and I guess there were getting a bit tight (I have since removed 4)- i got a branch sprout just above the graft line, below the strap-

Benton citrange, Volk lemon and Rough lemon are all good rootstocks I believe for Eureka. Also Grapefruit is a good rootstock for Eureka.

Shoot!! I have none of the above.. I only have FD, Swingle and Trifoliata.. I do have an Eureka Lemon.. but it is way smaller than the budwood.. Might just have to try and make it work..

Not sure what all the other trees rootstocks are.. Might have to just try a bud on each tree and maybe something good will come of it..

Gina *BabyBlue*

I am growing a couple dozen Rangpur Lime to use as a rootstock. I really do not know much about Rangpur as a rootstock, but I'm going to find out. The seedlings certainly are fast growers. - Millet

You can get grapefruit seed at the local market. Grapefruit grow rather quickly.

The budwood is in the fridge waiting to be grafted now..
I've done 17 buds almost a week ago.. I've lost 2 so far..
I grafted the var. pink lemon on my Blood orange.. and so far it is holding.. Maybe I'll get lucky and it will take?? If not maybe one of my other trees will be better choice..
All of the buds that were too big for my individual seedling root stocks was put on other "adult" trees for safe keeping till I can have rootstock large enough..
Guess I need to go buy my husband another bag of grapefruit.. He was so pleased with how sweet the last bag of Cali. Ruby Reds he just had.. He didn't mention any seeds though.. (I'm currently on a acid free diet so I didn't get to enjoy hope these dang pills are worth the torcher)
If I can get all the varieties to take and Including all the root stocks I have I will have 31 varieties!! Hubby said he is gonna call me Baskin & Robins of Citrus.. LMAO

Any other suggestions??

Gina *BabyBlue*