Last fall, my wife bought and planted a 5 gallon Satsuma, and 15 gallon Pink Grapefruit. My existing Washington Navel is showing new growth and flowers. The Grapefruit is also showing new growth. But, Satsuma is doing nothing. Some of the leaves are yellowing and dropping, but no new growth yet.

Is this normal for Satsuma? To show new growth later than other citruses?

All of my citrus except for my Owari Satsuma are showing flushes of growth. I think Satsuma is just a less vigorous group.

I am not positive about this, but I think that part of the reason satsuma has more cold tolerance than the others that you have is because it does not response as quickly to the added light and warmth of spring. I do not think it is an issue of vigor, but possibly "prudence" so as not to get hit by a late cold snap after it has come out of dormancy. I think that, if the tree is in good health, you can look forward to a robust spring flush, albeit a little later that the others.

If I am wrong, please correct me on this, since it is my current understanding.

Barbara

One of the characteristics of cold hardy citrus varieties (Poncirus, Kumquats, Satsumas, Mandarins) is their resistance to break "dormancy" in the spring. Poncirus the most cold hardy variety, is the latest to break "dormancy" and begin to flush new growth. Kumquats, next for cold hardiness, therefore is also late to flush. The Satsuma, is not as cold hardy as the two mentioned above, but is more cold hardy than Oranges, therefore, a Satsuma will begin to flush new growth later then most common varieties such as Oranges, Lemon, and etc. So if you don't see any new growth on your Satsuma, while some of your other citrus are pushing out new leaves, just wait a week or two. - Millet (676-)

I have been growing satsumas for many years and have never seen it grow from December to late February here even with very prolonged warm weather. My citrus plants are grafted on Trifoliate root stock. Could the root stock help keep the plant from growing during the winter? I also notice that even other citrus like meyer lemons, orlando tangelos, even valencia oranges seem to be more dormant grafted to trifoliate but they do start growing a few weeks earlier than satumas in late winter early spring.

My satsuma did not set any at all last year which was a surprise. It has grown quite a bit this year but no blooms so far on the Meyers or the satsuma. The Satsuma is going into its third year.

Last year during blooming time the back yard stayed flooded for almost three weeks after unusual heavy rains. I think that is what stopped the blooms.

Randy

My citrus plants are growing and blooming now. The blooms on the satsumas are still developing and should mature about 6 to 9 days from now. The meyer lemon blooms are more advanced and some are ready to open already. Looks like a very good year coming. The satsuma that had a very large crop last year does not have many blooms but healthy growth (new twigs and leaves). No surprise since satsumas are alternate bearing the ones off last year are on this year and those on last year will be off this year.


The potted citrus is blooming now.


I planted my pomegranate Friday and it is leaning because I planted that way. Will it straighten out over time?

Finally, my Satsuma Mandarins are showing new growth.

For your pom Tri, I don't think it'll straighten out. But, you'll have new suckers which will grow kind of straight. Somewhere I read, it's recommended to have about 6 or so branches/suckers out of ground for pomegranates. And none of them are straight since it's bushy.

Here's a random picture of pomegranate bush I found in flickr,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9125282@N08/974977370/

Here's the tree form.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bwop/58433008/

To grow a pomegranate in tree form would seem to take longer to do, but when they're done right, they're most majestic.

How often should I water recently planted pomegranates? I know they are drought tolerant but this is a recent transplant. It has been very dry here over the past month.

Tri, for your pom, deep water it about twice a week, more often if it gets warm and you have well draining soil. If you're in clay, take care not to water log the roots. They're better off a little dry than too wet. You can also apply a time release fertilizer at time of planting. Once they're established (they establish pretty quickly), you can cut the watering back to once a week unless it is in the hottest summer months, and then once every two weeks during the winter (or not at all if it's raining.)