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gardennewbe
Joined: 26 Nov 2012
Posts: 19
Location: So California
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| Posted: Mon 26 Nov, 2012 7:58 pm |
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OK, so the left one is history, since I don't know a thing about grafting. I will buy another 1 gal tree. Can I use the same soil, after removing the rootstock?
For the right one, lemon, do I cut the rootstock(s) where they join the main body? What do I do to make the tree grow up instead of looking like a bush? |
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Millet
Citruholic
Joined: 13 Nov 2005
Posts: 6657
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Mon 26 Nov, 2012 10:10 pm |
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Are you sure you know where the graft union is located on the tree? Only cut branches that are BELOW the graft union. Leave all the branches above the union alone. Normally grafted citrus trees are not pruned. It is better to let the tree grow naturally. - Millet. |
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Sylvain
Site Admin
Joined: 16 Nov 2007
Posts: 790
Location: Bergerac, France.
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| Posted: Tue 27 Nov, 2012 4:53 am |
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> the left one is history, since I don't know a thing about grafting.
Well, you can find every information on this forum.
You have everything to make fun: a big rootstock and budwood to graft.
Ask if someone on the forum is in your area and could help you. |
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Sanguinello
Gest
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| Posted: Tue 27 Nov, 2012 9:25 am |
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If the second tree has the rootstock comming directly out of the soil, you could have another rootstock too.
just dig it outand see where it comes from.
maybe you see it comes from roots or from the stem.
If from roots, then cut a good portion or sourrounding roots and give it to an own pot.
if comes from the stem, then cut it off direct at stem with all roots comming directly from rootstock and also give a new pot.
You will have then 3 plants instead of 2. |
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gardennewbe
Joined: 26 Nov 2012
Posts: 19
Location: So California
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| Posted: Wed 28 Nov, 2012 1:59 am |
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| Sylvain wrote: | > the left one is history, since I don't know a thing about grafting.
Well, you can find every information on this forum.
You have everything to make fun: a big rootstock and budwood to graft.
Ask if someone on the forum is in your area and could help you. |
I was thinking it might be fun and a good experience to "play" with this one.
I started reading on line about grafting and buding. I think I can do it. I read that the tree I get the graft from should have good fruit qualities, because that is what I will get after mine grows up.
Is there a place on the forum to ask for a graft?
Are nurserys a place to go to get a graft?
Can I do it this time of year? |
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gardennewbe
Joined: 26 Nov 2012
Posts: 19
Location: So California
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| Posted: Wed 28 Nov, 2012 2:03 am |
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| Sanguinello wrote: | If the second tree has the rootstock comming directly out of the soil, you could have another rootstock too.
just dig it outand see where it comes from.
maybe you see it comes from roots or from the stem.
If from roots, then cut a good portion or sourrounding roots and give it to an own pot.
if comes from the stem, then cut it off direct at stem with all roots comming directly from rootstock and also give a new pot.
You will have then 3 plants instead of 2. |
The second one had the rootstock coming out just below the splice line, above the soil line. I cut it there, hopefully that energy will now go toward the tree. |
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Sanguinello
Gest
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Sludge
Citruholic
Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 55
Location: Northern California
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| Posted: Thu 29 Nov, 2012 2:26 am |
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| gardennewbe wrote: |
I am newbe when it comes to the terminology, sorry. please explain "rootstock". |
Okay, most fruit trees are on what's called rootstock. Basically the roots are one variety of plant (usually selected for vigor or disease resistance) and then a good fruiting variety is grafted on top. So the tree you buy at a store has the best of both worlds, a top that makes good fruit, and a root system that's tough. However, the rootstock will occasionally try to put up it's own branches, which take away energy from the grafted fruit variety.
Anyway, the left tree will not produce edible fruit it looks to be all rootstock, it'll be a thorny tree that makes bitter fuzzy "oranges". It'll have nice flowers though, and can act as a hedge that nothing will want to cross.
As for the right tree, as many others have mentioned the rootstock is taking over. I'd recommend following every branch that has the small triple leaves down the the trunk and cutting them off there. |
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Laaz
Site Owner
Joined: 12 Nov 2005
Posts: 5642
Location: Dorchester County, South Carolina
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| Posted: Thu 29 Nov, 2012 2:58 am |
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I posted both budding & cleft grafting example here. link ...
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gardennewbe
Joined: 26 Nov 2012
Posts: 19
Location: So California
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| Posted: Thu 29 Nov, 2012 3:31 am |
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| Laaz wrote: | | I posted both budding & cleft grafting example here. link |
Thank you for all this help, in the past few days I have learned so much.
I read through both of those, doesn't seem too complicated.
Where do I get the material to graft or bud onto this rootstock. I have the Myers lemon already so I would like to get this one back as an orange, but one that will bear good edible fruit. |
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Sylvain
Site Admin
Joined: 16 Nov 2007
Posts: 790
Location: Bergerac, France.
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| Posted: Thu 29 Nov, 2012 4:41 am |
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Seeing the size of the rootstock I should prefer Bark graft to cleft graft or budding.
A high graft with one graft on each side.
Beeing in South California the rootstock must be in sap all year long. |
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gardennewbe
Joined: 26 Nov 2012
Posts: 19
Location: So California
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| Posted: Thu 29 Nov, 2012 2:32 pm |
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| Sylvain wrote: | Seeing the size of the rootstock I should prefer Bark graft to cleft graft or budding.
A high graft with one graft on each side.
Beeing in South California the rootstock must be in sap all year long. |
I am working on the left one that is all rootstock. I cut it so what I have a trunk that is about 1" in diameter and 2 feet tall, at the top it branches into 3 directions. You say a high graft, where exactly do you suggest? If my rootstock is in sap all year long is that good? |
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Sylvain
Site Admin
Joined: 16 Nov 2007
Posts: 790
Location: Bergerac, France.
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| Posted: Fri 30 Nov, 2012 5:49 am |
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Well, don't go too fast.
First are you sure it is 1 inch thick? It looks more like 1/2 inch.
If you already cut it we'll do with what you have but myself (as your daughter asked for a tall tree) I would have cut higher and cut the branches below.
Now we'll make a test to see what kind of graft to use.
Do as you see on the two first picture there:
link
As it is only a test you can do it smaller like 1/2 inch. Cut the bark with a cutter and try to lift the corner of the bark with a not sharp knife. If it lifts easily we shall do bark grafts. If it refuses to lift or break, Laaz shall guide you on an other graft or budding. 
OK now if you can lift the bark,DON'T DO ANYTHING, and read several times:
link
And come back. |
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gardennewbe
Joined: 26 Nov 2012
Posts: 19
Location: So California
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| Posted: Fri 30 Nov, 2012 3:58 pm |
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Sylvain,
This is where I am at, it measures 7/8" at the soil, 5/8" at the top, and is 24" tall. The growth in the soil are pieces that I pruned to see if they would take roots, nothing to lose.
I took the piece from the top clipping, 5/8" and tried to lift the bark as you describe and it does not come off easy,
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Sylvain
Site Admin
Joined: 16 Nov 2007
Posts: 790
Location: Bergerac, France.
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| Posted: Fri 30 Nov, 2012 8:19 pm |
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So we must forget bark-graft. But as you left three small branches I think one chip budding on each would do well. What is your opinion? Laaz? |
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