I'm looking for some citrus scionwood for grafting. Especially Tarocco Blood orange and Golden Nugget mandarin. I know about the UCR program, but it's a bit high priced, has certain restrictions, and the next cutting isn't until June. Are there any other sources?

John

John,

Where's your state? it is not allowed to send budwoods to citrus producing states. Check your state regulations.

Gold Nugget is patented cultivar, but you can buy a grafted plant from nurseries as the royalties for those has been paid.

Tarocco blood is not patented but then again check your state regulations.

Joe

Once again, all members PLEASE list either your state or your agricultural zone number on you profile. - Millet

Sorry about that, I'm in S. California. Am I correct that the source would have to be in California?

John

Yes. We happen to be in non-quarantine area for citrus, so I can send some budwoods. Will let you and Ramon know after the weekend of what's dormant on my trees. You are both in the south.

I have what seems to be a sport mutation of Tarocco, the one that has a navel in them. I might let you try that for testing if the sport carries on.

woo wwoooooo!!

Thanks Joe, that sounds good! Tell me, does citrus wood have to be dormant if it's for grafting rather than budding? I've been more interested in grafting citrus since I read that the grafted wood grows much quicker than that that's budded. Also, reading the bark graft tutorials has inspired me in that direction...although the bark on one tree I've checked doesn't seem that loose yet. Is there anything wrong with whip grafting citrus? I've had good success on apple and apricot trees the past 7 weeks, using only whip grafts.

I have not tried whip grafts on citrus, but I don't see why it would not work. However, there is an easier method to use when bark is not slipping--chip grafting. It is very similar to T-budding, but you just match the two pieces (the bud and the cut face of the scion) and then tape them together-- I tried that for the first time this spring and got 4 out of 5 to take.

I know what you mean...I tried whip grafting (without the tongue) some small diameter triangular shaped pieces, matching them with similar size branches. It was very hard to do, and they were flimsy...difficult to wrap with rubber bands. Right now, it doesn't look like they are taking. After 2 weeks+ the scions are gradually developing brown areas.

I first tried bark grafts, but the bark was not slipping and all I did was rip it when I tried to spread the cuts. I'm not sure when the bark will start slipping, does it take a minimum temperature to trigger this, or is this individualized according to different factors each tree feels.

John

Bark will usually slip when the tree is flushing, but not always at the start of a flush--that is why I ended up trying the chip budding. I had some rootstock that was flushing and cut some budwood for T-budding, but when the bark would not slip I remembered that chip budding would work when the bark doesn't slip. Since I had already cut the budwood I decided to try it--it worked.

It is very similar to T-budding on the budwood side--you cut the bud just like you would for T-budding-- although I found it helpful to cut a stop notch at the bottom to help with placing the bud on the stock. On the stock, you simply try to cut the exact same size section off --and then just match the faces and wrap.

Is it correct that a bark graft (or any graft) will grow much faster than one that is budded.

jc

It may be that I should have said "sooner" rather than "faster". I read somewhere there was a distinct advantage to grafting over budding. Is this wrong then...after one month and also after three months will a bud have grown more than a graft, so that there is a time advantage to budding.

I have had a wide variety of responses-- from a T-bud that grew less than 6 inches in a yr to one that grew over 4 ft in a season with multiple branches. I have had T-buds that took over a yr to break and some that broke within a couple months. Most of my bark grafts have been with small budwood on pencil size stock. I think stock size has a lot to do with growth, but comparing the T-bud that grew over 4 ft (on pencil size stock) to bark grafts I have done on pencil size stock--none of the bark grafts have come close. I have had bark grafts break in less than a month and they seem to work when it is too hot for T-buds.