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Adjusting PH level

 
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bodavid
Citruholic
Citruholic


Joined: 30 Apr 2007
Posts: 67
Location: kuwait

Posted: Sat 29 Jan, 2011 6:03 pm

Last year i planted 2 moroblood trees inground close to each other. One was doing well and the other is strugling. I bought a PH/moisture meter last week. I noticed that the one that is doing well is the one with a 7 PH level. The other one which is strugling has a 3 PH level. How can i adjust the soil so as to have a 7 PH level?
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Malcolm_Manners
Citrus Guru
Citrus Guru


Joined: 13 Nov 2005
Posts: 676
Location: Lakeland Florida

Posted: Sat 29 Jan, 2011 6:35 pm

First off, I have to wonder about the accuracy of your pH meter. Soils of pH 3 do exist in the world, but are quite rare -- that's exceedingly acidic. And in a dry climate like Kuwait, I'd be very surprised indeed. Now, if this is an artificial potting mix, maybe, but even there, 3.0 is amazingly acidic. Was your meter calibrated with standard buffers?

In any case, assuming your pH is too low, you can use calcium carbonate (also known as calcic lime, limestone, agricultural lime, Hi-Cal) or dolomitic limestone (a natural mixture of calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate, also known as dolomite, dolostone). While both are generally considered slow-acting, assuming your soil really is that acidic, they'll work fairly quickly. They should be well-incorporated into the soil, since surface applications are not very effective. Also, the smaller the particle size is, the faster they act, so a powdery form will better than a gritty, sandy form of the material.

You could also use calcium oxide (burned lime, quicklime), or calcium hydroxide (slaked lime, hydrated lime), and since both are highly water-soluble, they will move into the root zone and raise the pH almost instantaneously. But if you go that route, realize that both of those materials are highly caustic and dangerous to handle, and if you use too much, they can raise the soil pH far higher than you want, almost immediately. One advantage of the limestone or dolomite is that the closer the pH gets to 7, the slower they continue to act. So it's much less likely that you'll overdose your soil.
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Millet
Citruholic
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Joined: 13 Nov 2005
Posts: 6657
Location: Colorado

Posted: Sat 29 Jan, 2011 6:58 pm

I would not trust a pH meter that sells for under $100.00 US. I have never personally seen a quality/reliable pH meter that was also a moisture meter. Does this pH meter have the capability of being adjusted using standard buffer solutions? It would be recommended to verify the truth of your pH readings before applying anything. - Millet (716-)
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Tom
Citruholic
Citruholic


Joined: 11 Nov 2008
Posts: 261
Location: Alabama [Central]

Posted: Sat 29 Jan, 2011 8:26 pm

I have used a meter like that and it was better than nothing. I think the soil needs to be moist to work.One of mine has a light meter built in too. They are fun to play with.

A "real" pH meter better than what Millet said , you probably need to move the decimal point one or maybe two places to the right...between $1000 and $10,000 would be close for lab quality machines that land grant colleges and privates companies use. I have seen test strips like swimming pool test kits but I have not used the one I bought. I am thinking pH could be very low in Kuwait but don't really know...Tom

_________________
Tom in central Alabama
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GT
Citruholic
Citruholic


Joined: 11 Jul 2010
Posts: 395
Location: Beaumont, TX (zone 9a)

Posted: Sat 29 Jan, 2011 11:49 pm

Tom,

I think I should agree with Millet on his assessment of cheap meters... I also have a cheap china-made eBay-sold moisture-light-ph meter... The ph meter is, unfortunately, absolutely worthless. I did a quick test: stuck it one inch deep and the needle showed 6. I pushed the probe another inch deeper and the reading, all of a sudden, was 7! Another inch boosted my soil ph to 8. My next experiment was to use a glass of tap water. Sure enough, the reeding was changing with the depth... My wife is a chemist but she could not figure out any valid reasons for such a phenomenon... Very Happy

My final test was to buy and use the "color" ph kit. The answer was 6.5. Yeah, it was certainly fun but I would rather get a tool that can be trusted.

David, I would strongly consider redoing your ph test by some trustworthy means and then take an action.
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bodavid
Citruholic
Citruholic


Joined: 30 Apr 2007
Posts: 67
Location: kuwait

Posted: Sun 30 Jan, 2011 1:39 am

Thanks for the replies. Yes my ph meter is a china made which i bought for only $6. I thought it was a bargain when i bought it. Sorry for the mistake the PH level was about 4.5. Maybe the soil was acidic because it is next to the salty beach. I will check the soil again the following weekend to get a more acurrate number.
Which PH meter do you recommend to get a more accurate result?
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turtleman
Citrus Guru
Citrus Guru


Joined: 30 Nov 2008
Posts: 225
Location: Arizona

Posted: Sun 30 Jan, 2011 3:34 am

Personally, I'd suggest you take small soil samples of the area your trees are in (about 20" deep over a grid) then combine them into one small package and send them off to a lab for a breakdown. That way you'll "Know" whats in your area for needs on trace elements and nutrients. I don't know what your cost would be there but here they run around $60.00 for a full report. This way your not speculating on what you might need, you'll know.
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