I did alot of cutting on my Meyer the other day, including a couple of branches with leaves and fruit. I had too many leaveless branches so I pruned it to the shape that I wanted. I'm happy with the new look of the tree (open center).I have the tree next to a window and under 250W lighting right now. I'm hoping for more leaves. What do you predict will happen to my tree? Will it flower under lights throughout the winter or will it only flower in the spring again? The 3 remaining lemons have been changing from green to yellow. Do Meyers actually turn orange? I'm hoping the lights will fully ripen them. All feedback is appreciated

Pruning your Meyer back will force the tree to produce a new growth flush. Be aware that continued pruning will remove the next flush of budding points. I do this on a limited basis to get a fuller looking tree.

Meyer also root very easy. Try rooting the branches you just pruned off. They should all root & leaf out as long as they aren't dead wood.

Goodground, yes the fruit of Meyer Lemon turns a light orange when fully mature. All citrus trees are made up of a top foliage part (scion) and a bottom root system . These two parts make up a UNIT. Many times container growers put a lot of effort and time into the upper part of the unit (foliage) and often neglect the tree's lower root structure. The growth pattern of citrus is ALWAYS cyclical. First comes the root growth. After the root growth cycle is completed, ONLY THEN the foliage cycle begins, and when the foliage growth cycle has completed, the root growth cycle once again begins. This cycle is repeted over and over through out the year, PROVIDED that both the roots and foliage are properly cultivated. As you have placed the tree directly infront of a window (I presume a south window), and have even given the tree extra light, the top part of the unit should receive what it requires. The root system, also has a set of demands that also MUST be satisfied in order for good root growth. Citrus roots COMPLETELY stop all growth, and COMPLETELY stop all function when the temperature of the root zone drops below 55.4F. Even at temperatures at or slightly above 55.4, root function is minimal. Because the rootstock and the scion are a UNIT it is critical that you match the bottom part of the tree with the top part of the tree. A citrus tree's leaves that are receiving the direct rays of the sun plus the direct rays of the extra light, could actually have a leaf surface temperature of 90F to over 100F. This will cause a huge demand on the root system to send up enough water for the leaves to provide adequate transpiration to enable the tree to cool itself. Transpiration is the main method that provides cooling. Therefore you will need to keep the soil temperature above 55.4F, so the root system can meet the demands required. If it were my tree I would take steps to insure that the root zone temperature is maintained at least at 64F. If you are unable to accomplish this root temperature than you need to reduce the amount of light. Remember, because of evaporation from the container surface, the soil will be cooler than the room temperature, unless the container is also receiving adequate sun light. If both parts of the tree are provided for, you should soon see the resumption of good growth, both root and foliage. Before spring your tree should be once again fully leafed out. With the new flush you should also see a good bloom. Don't forget good nutrition and adaquate water are esential for both good growth and good bloom. Good luck, and I wish you a very merry CHRISTmas. - Millet

Thanks guys

Millet, my tree is passing with flying colors cause I have learned everything you explained in your post from you in the past. The leaves look very healthy and green. I'm actually lowering the room temp. a little bit to get more chill hours for more flowers and fruit next season This winter I'm fertilizing cause of the light bulbs. I need to improve humidity cause I have a forced air furnace

Good Ground, you write that you are "lowering the room temp. a little bit to get more chill hours for more flowers and fruit." Most studies indicate that the chilling treatment is perceived by the aerial part of the tree (leaves, twigs, buds). You can heat the soil to 64F for good root activity, and at the same time have the tree in a cool room (< 68F) for the 850 hours of chilling to achieve a good bloom. I do this method to guard against WLD. Also don't forget the nitrogen. Nitrogen is a component of chlorophyll (the green pigment in the leaves), and is associated with important tree functions such as growth, leaf production, FLOWER INTIATION, FRUIT SET, and fruit development and quality. Be sure to fertilize the tree a month befor the onset of blooms. - Millet

I think there are other mechanisms involve for inducing blooms and not only chilling hours. When I was in high school in the Philippines, I planted several American lemons (probably Eureka), and they fruited for me, and temperature there never went below 68 deg F. They seem to fruit year round to. A lot of our citruses bloom year round and produce fruit without chilling.

Of course, chilling is a way of stressing citrus plants and would induce it to procreate or bloom in case it is under stress of dying. Other methods of inducing bloom would be water stress then followed by generous downpour. Could be the other way around, long periods of monsoonal rains may wash off some inhibitory chemicals and then inducing the plants to bloom.

For sure chilling is one COOL way to do it here in the USA

Joe, your correct. Chilling is just one method of producing a good bloom. Like you mentioned above, making a tree bloom by water stress is exactly how citrus trees come into bloom in tropical countries, where they cannot use chilling, because the temperature never falls below 68F. Certain varieties like the lemon, seem to have retained their original native procreation attributes and flower year around. However, in countries such as Italy, and other meditrainian areas, growers withold water from their lemon groves during the summer to produce a water stress to the trees, then near the end of the summer season, irrigate deeply the groves to promote flowering and ruiting. By this method they obtain a major winter crop of lemons, when the fruit sells at a much higher price. Take care Joe, thanks so much for the gift, and have a very Merry Christmas. - Millet

Hi guys,

I know I am digging up a really old thread here, my apologies. I found it on a search for pruning, and needed to ask a question about water stress.

As you may know, I don't have the option of lowering my room temp in my appartment. It is very hot especially this year. They have installed new insulated doors, and replaced the heating system. It can be, and often is 28-30°C in here. If we open windows, the humidity from our humidifyer drops at least 10 % relative hum. within minutes, so we keep it closed unless unbearable. Obviously, they will not get a chill this year, but I am wondering the best way to go about stimulating it via thirst......can anyone suggest how to do this safely?


And Happy New Year!!