I have noticed leaves that have gone pale. They are younger leaves on my seedling. But they were darker and have gone pale.
Here is the best shot I could find that I had taken of the plant at the beginning of last month.

Here is shot of same plant just a few days ago..



I had not given the plants any food since August when another plant got sick. I gave them all a regular feeding day before yesterday. I am trying to find a way to get the soil PH checked. As I am in the middle of no where and the nearest "bigbox" store or "reputable" Nursery is over 80 miles I have contacted my kids school green house to see if I could get the soil tested with them.
I will post what the results are, if I can get the soil tested.
Thanks for any input!
Gina *BabyBlue*

Gina. Nice to see your posting. Your photos are much more clearer. Ive have been a firm believer in pH Management for only a few years.

I do a pH test on my trees about once ever three months And use a Hanna hand held it is accurate to within 0.01 and use a two point Calibration each time I use it using a pH buffer solution 4.01 & 7.01

I suggested for you to test your pH before adding anything such as Iron
if your tree has a high pH your tree will not use the Iron an if you continued adding it could lead to a Iron Toxicity problem

There are also a number of fertilizers that can be used in controlling your pH

As soon as I receive your address I will send you an older pH tester not that good but better than none at all I will also include some Test Strips

Last night Laaz offered you some good advice I got out of there just after his posting

Again pH Management is VERY important in maintaining the health of any tree or plant an by learning how to control it will provide you with one of the keys to the Gold Vault

I found a ph test kit. if you can call it that. It says that my water tests at some where around 8 and the soil *I used bottled when I tested the soil* looks to be around 7.0 maybe lower.
the test has 4 solid colors. dark green(8.0 Alkaline) light green(7.0 Neutral) yellow (6.0 Acid) and orange (5.0 Very Acid).. the soil test looks little bit lighter than the color of the light green.
the name on the test kit is "rapitest soil tester"
Thanks you time.
Gina

Gina Congratulations!! On your start of testing an learning pH Management. It maybe a little hard a first, But you will learn.

This is what I do. I test my irrigation water. The water that I use for watering my tree's an get a pH reading. Know I now what I'm watering my tree's with for pH

With this irrigation water, do not add any fertilizer's or added ingredients when you do so. Use just plain irrigation water as you tested above

You should have a good container mix so your tested or known pH water flows easily through

Let this rest an drain for about 15 - 20 Minutes after that time has past

You want to add about a cup or two of distilled water to your tree an this is the water that you want. So you want to retain this in a clean container do your pH test on this solution This is your pH

This is called the pour through Method

This reading is what you tree's pH is There is another way of doing a pH test an that is the Pancake method although this may also be very good I have never used it

I know that there is people here that are Much Much more advanced than me I would not be offended in anyway from your postings

a part of learning is is teach an to teach one must be open for correction

Gina, first your citrus still looks rather healthy. New leaves are alway a lighter green color and have a tender (softner) texture than mature leaves. It takes about 5-8 weeks for the leaves to firm up and obtain a dark mature green coloration. However, in your case as you have not given your citrus any fertilizer what so ever for the last three months, I'm sure that your trees are VERY difficient on nitrogen. The whole idea of not fertilizing citrus from August/Sptember until spring is for trees GROWN OUTSIDE. The reason for witholding fertilizer from citrus trees grown in the ground/outside is to allow them to go "dormant" thus becoming more cold hardy. Of course, for container trees grown inside greenhouses, or inside warm homes this is never a concern. Your trees, are growing with good light, warm conditions and ARE NOT DORMANT, nor will they become dormant. They require nutrients to maintain good health, because they are in high light/warm temperature invironments. Nitrogen is one of the MAJOR fertilizer elements that provide the energy for good foliage growth, and greatly aids in the manufacture of cholorphyl (the dark healthy green color of the leaves). Nitrogen is VERY WATER SOLUBLE, and EASILY disolves in the irrigation water, and then is quickly leached from the soil, ESPICALLY in containerized plants, because of the frequient watering they are given. In a container as small as your trees are in, all nitrogen (and most of the potassium) will be quickly leached from the medium. With out nutrients, it becomes very difficult for the tree to produce the photosynthates it requires for good color and good health. It is good you recognized the initial symptoms of nutrient deficiency and gave your trees some fertilizer. My recomendation would be to feed your trees through the winter months, at 1/2 streangh solution. Something like a 100-PPM concentration. Good luck Gina. Take care - Millet

Thanks for the replies!!!
After reading, reading and rereading and banging my head against this..
I have a question.
on the ph scale that came with my little test kit. it has the 4 colors. Each color has a number. lets take the light green.. it has 7.0 neutral. does that mean that it starts at 7 or that 7 is the "middle"? in other words if the color matched exact it would be 7 but if it were lighter it could be a 6.5? ? As far as the test it's self I think I've confused myself more.. But.. I guess I do have a General idea of what the ph of my soil is. it is in the neutral range. This is because I haven't used fertilizer in quiet a few months?? I tested the water I use to water the plants. well.. it's blueish green?? since there is no blue on the chart that came with the test I am guessing that the water must be higher than the chart goes? SO the water is over 8?
So will resuming the acid fert *Miracle-Gro Azalea Camellia Rhododendron Plant food* that I had been using before be enough to clear up the problem?
As I have never used iron supplement before now would be a good time to start?
The iron supplement I bought is " ferti*lome Chelated Liquid Iron and Other Micro Nutrients"
Any input to this thread is greatly appreciated..
Gina *BabyBlue*

Gina, my major in college, was chemistry, so I have done a lot of pH testing over the years. First of all, the use of pH test papers, where you match the color of the wet test strip against a color chart are not very accurate. The results you obtain will only give you a ball park estimate, and cannot be relied upon for an exact pH measurement. When you test your soil, you have to know how to conduct a soil pH test to get any kind of a correct answer. The easiest soil pH test method is called the "pour through method." In the pour through method irrigate the container one hour before testing, using your regular irrigation water. Make sure the medium is thoroughly wet. Allow the pot to drain for 30 to 60minutes. Once drainage has stopped, place the container to be sampled into a plastic saucer and pour onto the surface enough DISTILLED WATER to get about 2 oz. (50ml) to come out of the bottom of the pot. The leachate is the sample you use for your pH test. The use of an acid type fertilizer such as 30-10-10 or 21-7-7, (there are many different acid fertilizer formulas) will reduce the pH of the growing medium. It is NOT the actual fertilizer that reduces the pH of the soil, it is the chemical reaction between the fertilizer and the tree, that causes the tree's roots to excrete H+ ions into the medium, and the excreted H+ ions lowers the soil pH. You can use a chelated iron to correct an iron deficiency, if and when you have a deficiency. It really is not wise to add trace elements when no deficiency exists. I really don't know why you have not fed an indoor/warm container citrus tree for the many months that you withheld all nurishment. I would fertilize a small tree at approximately 100 - 150 PPM during the winter if your keeping the tree in a active environment. Take care. - Millet

Thanks again, folks.

Today I learned the correct way to test pH. I had just watered when I read the post, so I tried the pour through method. I got 6.75.

Then I followed up on the nitrogen deficiency and made that diagnosis in a couple of my trees as well. I repotted some 6 weeks ago to CHC/peat. But in an effort to "do no harm" I went VERY easy on the fertilizer. I've got a uniform pallor and greater than expect leaf drop. Corrective actions have been taken!

I've also got what looks like a mild but classic Fe deficiency pattern in the new growth (I do have some new growth!). Could I also have an Fe deficiency in this setting?

Robert

Thanks for all the info Millet!!!
Maybe a PH thread would be good for FAQ?
PH.. Fert.. soil/chc... temps..
I have learned a tremendous amount from your postings.

Gina *BabyBlue*

Below is a link that will help you with your nitrogen content / ppm


http://www.firstrays.com/fertcalc.htm

StressBaby- Gina Another way to test is if you have a meter that you can not calibrate. Is to test a known sample Buffer solution an Subtract or add the difference.

Still not the best but should get you close. Gina I thought of sending you some Buffer solution, but was afraid it would freeze an break. You should get a package in the mail this week

Dale, the PPM calculator that you posted is really neat. It is unique to fine a PPM calculator that also adjust K2O into K, and P205 into P. Thank you VERY MUCH. I have booked marked the calculator and will certainly use it a lot in the future. - Millet

We are working on the FAQ section. It just takes some time... Keep the input comming though

Thank you so very much Lazz!!!
You are doing a top notch job!
Gina *BabyBlue*