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Best graft for Loquats?
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Citrus Growers Forum Index du Forum -> Fruit & Tropicals other than citrus
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jsvand5
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Joined: 14 Jun 2008
Posts: 66
Location: FL

Posted: Thu 12 Feb, 2009 4:18 pm

I have a large Loquat tree planted in my yard that was given to me 6 years ago when I moved into the house. It was grown from seed and was already a few years old in the pot. I have still not seen one bloom from it. I have read that when grown from seed they can be sterile. I am wanting to try to graft onto it from another tree in a friends yard that produces well every year. Does anyone here know the best way to graft on loquats and where to take the scion wood from the producing plant? Does barkgrafting work like shown on the sticky thread in this forum? I have read that simple cleft grafts work well, but he diameter of my rootstock is going to be quite a bit larger than the scion wood.
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Patty_in_wisc
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Joined: 15 Nov 2005
Posts: 1842
Location: zone 5 Milwaukee, Wi

Posted: Fri 13 Feb, 2009 5:42 am

Found this here on Forum for Propagating Fruits & Tropicals. Looks like wedge is the graft for you.
link

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JoeReal
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Joined: 16 Nov 2005
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Location: Davis, California

Posted: Fri 13 Feb, 2009 9:37 pm

Cleft Grafting, T-budding, Chip-budding worked for me very well when grafting loquats. I usually do a combo, cleft grafting and T-budding below the cleft.

The best time to do this is during spring during active growth flush when the barks are slipping. But I have tried grafting loquats year round in zone 9, and are all successful if you use the very long cleft graft.

The trick with grafting loquat is the same you would use when grafting avocadoes. The technique is applicable to both, as you are handling green scionwoods. But you can't graft avocado and loquat together, Smile

My best preferred material for loquat or avocado grafting is the terminal stems. Select fat terminal stems and cut to where it has still some soft green in them. I avoid mature wood that has hardened, those will not take easily and have not been very successful with them. In the same way, graft the scionwood unto where the stem is in transition from woody to young soft greenwood. Although you can graft near the terminal as well, as long as you have matching diameters.

Haven't tried bark grafting yet, but that one should work well if done during bark slipping.

Have fun!
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bencelest
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Location: Salinas, California

Posted: Sat 14 Feb, 2009 11:42 am

Joe:
When do we graft those scion woods we got from the scion exchange.
I have all mine in the ref.
The senorita banana that I have I am not sure its condition.
It is still hard but no signs of life yet. But I am still keeping it with Christmas lights and heat mat at the bottom with soil thermostat..
Most of my plums, peaches, nectarines and plouts started to have flower buds.
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JoeReal
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Posted: Sat 14 Feb, 2009 3:23 pm

Benny,

To insure great success, I'd recommend that your timing would be:

You can graft the plums, plumcots, pluots, apples, pears, quinces around this time.

After a week of no rains, and when the peaches are blooming up to the time they push out leaves, you can graft them. It is very important for the week to be dry when you do grafting of the peaches and nectarines. The same with cherries.

Graft the apricots a month after there are no rains.

Graft the persimmons when the first leaves open.

Graft the citruses when there is no rain for the past couple of days and when the barks are slipping.

Have fun,

Joe
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gdbanks
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Joined: 08 May 2008
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Location: Jersey Village, TX

Posted: Sat 14 Feb, 2009 7:08 pm

why is not important to graft during a period of no rain?

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bencelest
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Joined: 13 Nov 2005
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Location: Salinas, California

Posted: Sat 14 Feb, 2009 10:03 pm

JoeReal wrote:
Benny,

To insure great success, I'd recommend that your timing would be:

You can graft the plums, plumcots, pluots, apples, pears, quinces around this time.

After a week of no rains, and when the peaches are blooming up to the time they push out leaves, you can graft them. It is very important for the week to be dry when you do grafting of the peaches and nectarines. The same with cherries.

Graft the apricots a month after there are no rains.

Graft the persimmons when the first leaves open.

Graft the citruses when there is no rain for the past couple of days and when the barks are slipping.

Have fun,

Joe


As stated above qoute, it is important to graft after sometime the period of no rain.
And thanks for important advice maestro.
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jsvand5
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Posted: Sun 15 Feb, 2009 2:16 am

Thanks for all the info. I did actually see the other thread after posting this. I tried a few grafts yesterday but I am not really expecting them to take. I am going to try again in the spring when there is more new growth to use.
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JoeReal
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Posted: Sun 15 Feb, 2009 5:40 am

gdbanks wrote:
why is not important to graft during a period of no rain?


Some fruit types like apricots and cherries are very sensitive to infections when there is rain. The dirt and pathogens on the surface of the barks gets activated when there is rain and it is getting warmer.

Peaches and nectarines would be the next most sensitive ones. When it is humid and just before the flowers start to bloom, during the budswell for example, the fungal pathogens have been for several millions of years know the timing when to release their spores to inflict the maximum damages. It is timed with rains, usually.

That is why we strongly recommend pruning and grafting of these sensitive types to much later in the season when there's no more rain.

When it comes to citruses, the rain carries the dirt and contaminates large portions of the stems that are suited for grafting. Also, the contaminated drip water could get into the graft union. There are ways to overcome this contamination by the pattern of wrappings that you do, and I have discussed them elsewhere in various grafting tips.

But I can be hard-headed too, and would graft anything rain or shine, year round anytime and not wait for the best time, and that requires variations of techniques. But to insure the greatest success if you are just beginning, the advices that I give are from several thousand grafting experiences.
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gdbanks
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Posted: Sun 15 Feb, 2009 3:08 pm

thanks,

i took a class from John Panzarella, Thursday. did my very first grafting attempts i grafted a Fairchild mandarin and a Tropic Snow Peach. then on Friday and Saturday there have been some rain.

hoping at least one will take to boost my confidence as i prepare to do many more.

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Patty_in_wisc
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Joined: 15 Nov 2005
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Location: zone 5 Milwaukee, Wi

Posted: Wed 18 Feb, 2009 5:08 am

Joe, where can I find how to cleft graft & chip bud graft? I had a bookmark titled "Joe Reals cleft graft" but the site isn't anymore. Thanks

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JoeReal
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Location: Davis, California

Posted: Wed 18 Feb, 2009 7:59 am

Patty_in_wisc wrote:
Joe, where can I find how to cleft graft & chip bud graft? I had a bookmark titled "Joe Reals cleft graft" but the site isn't anymore. Thanks


That's Epson website cost cutting measures. The public website is a cost to them, and my answer is no more patronizing the Epson expensive inks!

I will try to put up another one as soon as I find my original files.
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Patty_in_wisc
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Joined: 15 Nov 2005
Posts: 1842
Location: zone 5 Milwaukee, Wi

Posted: Wed 18 Feb, 2009 5:48 pm

From looking at pics of a cleft graft growing, it looks very similar to wedge (?)

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JoeReal
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Location: Davis, California

Posted: Wed 18 Feb, 2009 9:42 pm

Okay, just recovered my files and reconstructed the tutorial:

link
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Patty_in_wisc
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Joined: 15 Nov 2005
Posts: 1842
Location: zone 5 Milwaukee, Wi

Posted: Thu 19 Feb, 2009 1:57 am

COOOOL... That's the one I was looking for. Thanks!
It is just like the wedge graft that Eycker posted but you give more details for graft dummies like me.

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Patty
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