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justjoan Citruholic
Joined: 18 Apr 2006 Posts: 335 Location: Brooklyn Park Mn Zone 4A
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Posted: Thu 03 May, 2007 11:58 am |
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All this talk about banana's has me wondering and reading. Is there a variety that can be container grown? I have read about the Super Dwarf Cavendish and that folks have not had a lot of luck, when they have to bring it indoors in the winter or for that matter getting it to fruit. Is there any variety that I might try??? Joan _________________
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bencelest Citruholic
Joined: 13 Nov 2005 Posts: 1595 Location: Salinas, California
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Posted: Thu 03 May, 2007 1:36 pm |
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A picture is worth a thousand words
Musa Ladyfinger
Double 'mahoi'
Any of the dwarf varieties will do.
I am planning to put on pots the following:
dwarf orinoco- hardy
dwarf Brazilian- hardy
dwarf cavendish- poor
Double mahoi- don't know maybe medium since originally came from Hawaii
Rajapuri- hardy
Calif gold- hardy |
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justjoan Citruholic
Joined: 18 Apr 2006 Posts: 335 Location: Brooklyn Park Mn Zone 4A
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Posted: Thu 03 May, 2007 3:32 pm |
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Thanks B. I just gotta do it, is one place or other best to order plants from?? _________________
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karpes Citruholic
Joined: 14 Mar 2006 Posts: 379 Location: South Louisiana
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Posted: Thu 03 May, 2007 4:00 pm |
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Benny
Looks like you favor the Orinoco, so if you had to choose only one which would you recommend as far as ease to grow, hardiness and fruit taste?
Karl |
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bencelest Citruholic
Joined: 13 Nov 2005 Posts: 1595 Location: Salinas, California
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Posted: Thu 03 May, 2007 5:32 pm |
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If you can't find it through your local nursery you can try EBay and the best place to buy them is I can't recall the name of the store but Joe Real knows. It maybe a little higher but you will get your money's worth. At Ebay, buying there is a gamble. Don't get tempted to buy the $5.95 kind. They are cultured bananas that is only 5" to 8 inch high.
Buy a pup. You can save 2 to 4 years time to fruit.
Karl:
From the input of the other people who have experienced growing bananas I would recommend dwarf orinoco.
A lot of people recommend this because it is one of the hardiest bananas and shortest time to fruit- 14 months from pup.
One said that of all the hardy bananas he kept in his garage, all perish except his dwarf orinoco. Also the height is only 5 feet to fruit. |
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Millet Citruholic
Joined: 13 Nov 2005 Posts: 6656 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Thu 03 May, 2007 5:32 pm |
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If you wish to grow a variety that will produce full size commercial bananas, and a variety that does well in containers, grow a Chiquita (Grand Nain). The plant will be larger than the dwarf varieties, but not overly so. Does well in a room with good light. A Grand Nain will fruit on the 15th or 16th leaf, making the plant approximately 7 feet tall and 5 or 6 feet wide. It should be planted in a 15 gallon container. It normally produces a couple hundred bananas, depending on how well it is grown (how happy the banana is). Bananas are much like Citrus, in that they stop growing when temperatures fall below 55F. |
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bencelest Citruholic
Joined: 13 Nov 2005 Posts: 1595 Location: Salinas, California
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Posted: Thu 03 May, 2007 5:42 pm |
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Karl:
There are two types of orinoco bananas:
One is the regular orinoco that grows from 16 to 20 feet and the
Dwarf orinoco 5 to 7 feet.
Heavy bearer, Good eating quality zone 7b
I plan to keep my bananas in pots without any heat help from me.
I grew them before in my covered patio and stayed green all winter long. But I did not know the kind I had. |
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bencelest Citruholic
Joined: 13 Nov 2005 Posts: 1595 Location: Salinas, California
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Posted: Thu 03 May, 2007 5:56 pm |
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I found Joe Real's input:
"www.going-bananas.com would usually sell with the correct cultivars. A little bit more expensive than others but their plants are top quality. Avoid the eBay tissue cultured plantlets like the plague. I've had many mislabeled cultivars from those cheapo plantlets and knew only after 3 or 4 years. With growing-bananas, so far they are 100% correctly labeled." |
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Patty_in_wisc Citrus Angel
Joined: 15 Nov 2005 Posts: 1842 Location: zone 5 Milwaukee, Wi
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Posted: Thu 03 May, 2007 6:00 pm |
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I have a double Mahoi which is a good eating banana & only get to about 7 ft. Good for pot growing (it's just over 1' tall now). _________________ Patty
I drink wine to make other people more interesting
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JoeReal Site Admin
Joined: 16 Nov 2005 Posts: 4726 Location: Davis, California
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Posted: Thu 03 May, 2007 6:46 pm |
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Patty_in_wisc wrote: | I have a double Mahoi which is a good eating banana & only get to about 7 ft. Good for pot growing (it's just over 1' tall now). |
the mahoi will not produce the double or triple fruit stalks when container grown. The double or more multiple fruit stalks come from the second generation pups and later on the same clump when they form extensive mats. Container is no space for making a big mat of corms. |
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JoeReal Site Admin
Joined: 16 Nov 2005 Posts: 4726 Location: Davis, California
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Posted: Thu 03 May, 2007 6:50 pm |
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the size of the fruits will depend on how large storage your mass of corms have, how large are your stems, the number of leaves, and the effective hours of fruit filling conditions and photosynthetic activities during the season. for California, temperatures lower than 50 deg F, that is zero fruit filling activity, anything above 95 deg F, also a zero fruit filling activity. that means very very few hours.
the number of leaves that the banana produce is not a very reliable method of predicting its blooming time. |
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bencelest Citruholic
Joined: 13 Nov 2005 Posts: 1595 Location: Salinas, California
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Posted: Thu 03 May, 2007 8:51 pm |
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Joe:
You are telling me.
I have several type of bananas that kept putting out leaves for over two years and none of them set fruit. Oh, yes, they grew tall too. Very good looking bananas with big sturdy pseudostems and big leaves.
I just started replacing them with known varieties. |
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Millet Citruholic
Joined: 13 Nov 2005 Posts: 6656 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Thu 03 May, 2007 8:52 pm |
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Joe, you are probably correct concerning the fruiting time of bananas and the leaf count. I am now on my third Chiquita, all grown in the greenhouse. All have fruited on the 15th leaf, and all have been grown under the same conditions. I agree with you a lot depends on the environment and care that the plant receives. I am also presently growing a Mysore, and a Williams Hybrid and a Black Hawaiian. - Millet |
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Patty_in_wisc Citrus Angel
Joined: 15 Nov 2005 Posts: 1842 Location: zone 5 Milwaukee, Wi
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Posted: Fri 04 May, 2007 1:33 am |
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JoeReal wrote: | for California, temperatures lower than 50 deg F, that is zero fruit filling activity, anything above 95 deg F, also a zero fruit filling activity. that means very very few hours. |
Joe, if this is grown indoors (in winter), it won't be lower than 55 F nor higher than 95F. It seems to me that all plants can be grown in pots ..given the right adaptions ... soil, ferts, & light etc. _________________ Patty
I drink wine to make other people more interesting
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JoeReal Site Admin
Joined: 16 Nov 2005 Posts: 4726 Location: Davis, California
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Posted: Fri 04 May, 2007 2:32 am |
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Millet wrote: | Joe, you are probably correct concerning the fruiting time of bananas and the leaf count. I am now on my third Chiquita, all grown in the greenhouse. All have fruited on the 15th leaf, and all have been grown under the same conditions. I agree with you a lot depends on the environment and care that the plant receives. I am also presently growing a Mysore, and a Williams Hybrid and a Black Hawaiian. - Millet |
Millet, if it works for you, that's very good. My advise is to always find your predictors the way you grow your bananas. In my case, it has been the height. I have a dwarf cavendish banana that produced 250 leaves or more and never fruited. When it got too massive for me to lug into the garage every winter, i left it outside and it promptly died back to the ground. It has been the same with all of these tissue cultured plantlets, you will have hundreds of leaves before they will ever fruit. So in my case, the counting of leaves doesn't work. One of the reasons could be that the cold sensitive bananas have their biological clock reset when they go dormant in the winter in the garage, and so when they grow back, it is like counting again from zero. Unlike the cold hardy ones that are reliable, once they're awake from dormancy, they remember at what phenostage they've rested and take off from there.
When you grow them in the greenhouse like Millet does, then you can depend on the counting of banana leaves, unlike us who don't have prime space to build a greenhouse even if we can afford one,
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