I have a large Loquat tree planted in my yard that was given to me 6 years ago when I moved into the house. It was grown from seed and was already a few years old in the pot. I have still not seen one bloom from it. I have read that when grown from seed they can be sterile. I am wanting to try to graft onto it from another tree in a friends yard that produces well every year. Does anyone here know the best way to graft on loquats and where to take the scion wood from the producing plant? Does barkgrafting work like shown on the sticky thread in this forum? I have read that simple cleft grafts work well, but he diameter of my rootstock is going to be quite a bit larger than the scion wood.

Found this here on Forum for Propagating Fruits & Tropicals. Looks like wedge is the graft for you.
link

Cleft Grafting, T-budding, Chip-budding worked for me very well when grafting loquats. I usually do a combo, cleft grafting and T-budding below the cleft.

The best time to do this is during spring during active growth flush when the barks are slipping. But I have tried grafting loquats year round in zone 9, and are all successful if you use the very long cleft graft.

The trick with grafting loquat is the same you would use when grafting avocadoes. The technique is applicable to both, as you are handling green scionwoods. But you can't graft avocado and loquat together,

My best preferred material for loquat or avocado grafting is the terminal stems. Select fat terminal stems and cut to where it has still some soft green in them. I avoid mature wood that has hardened, those will not take easily and have not been very successful with them. In the same way, graft the scionwood unto where the stem is in transition from woody to young soft greenwood. Although you can graft near the terminal as well, as long as you have matching diameters.

Haven't tried bark grafting yet, but that one should work well if done during bark slipping.

Have fun!

Joe:
When do we graft those scion woods we got from the scion exchange.
I have all mine in the ref.
The senorita banana that I have I am not sure its condition.
It is still hard but no signs of life yet. But I am still keeping it with Christmas lights and heat mat at the bottom with soil thermostat..
Most of my plums, peaches, nectarines and plouts started to have flower buds.

Benny,

To insure great success, I'd recommend that your timing would be:

You can graft the plums, plumcots, pluots, apples, pears, quinces around this time.

After a week of no rains, and when the peaches are blooming up to the time they push out leaves, you can graft them. It is very important for the week to be dry when you do grafting of the peaches and nectarines. The same with cherries.

Graft the apricots a month after there are no rains.

Graft the persimmons when the first leaves open.

Graft the citruses when there is no rain for the past couple of days and when the barks are slipping.

Have fun,

Joe

why is not important to graft during a period of no rain?

Thanks for all the info. I did actually see the other thread after posting this. I tried a few grafts yesterday but I am not really expecting them to take. I am going to try again in the spring when there is more new growth to use.

thanks,

i took a class from John Panzarella, Thursday. did my very first grafting attempts i grafted a Fairchild mandarin and a Tropic Snow Peach. then on Friday and Saturday there have been some rain.

hoping at least one will take to boost my confidence as i prepare to do many more.

Joe, where can I find how to cleft graft & chip bud graft? I had a bookmark titled "Joe Reals cleft graft" but the site isn't anymore. Thanks

From looking at pics of a cleft graft growing, it looks very similar to wedge (?)

Okay, just recovered my files and reconstructed the tutorial:

link

COOOOL... That's the one I was looking for. Thanks!
It is just like the wedge graft that Eycker posted but you give more details for graft dummies like me.