http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/233/006hou.jpg/

Pls look at the photo. Which of the buds in your opinion takes easier? With wood or without?

Neither. If you cut the bud correctly & make a inverted T the bud will slide in very easy. Have a look here.

link

Thank you for your immediate reply. I see while cutting your bud ,that you cut off a bit of bark wood and you do not peel off the bud in a shield shape as advocated by others. Top of my illustration photo shows a peeled bud

No, you do not need to remove the bark. Actually I would say the bark helps keep the bud moist.

Laaz,

what would you say is wrong with the second bud in the original post? Although a picture is blurry...

Thanks! Still learning.

In my constant quest for self improvement and since I am a novice in citrus grafting I have been asking here , other older and more exrerienced grafters of their way of t-budding.Others peel the bud in a shield shape and others cut it off. I personally tried the peeled bud way with mixed success. Other buds rotted, others took but never sprouted( blind buds?), another took and sprouted vigorously but suddenly dried out in a week and others were overall succesful . In all cases same protocol was followed, bark was lifting nicely , scion wood was from nice green ,pencil thick, 1 year shoots.
To carry the conversation further, an older grafter advised me that if I peel the bud and underneath the barkwood is thorny, I should discard that bud( indeed, it slips out perforated) and peel out a new one.
Looking through the various posts in this forum I see only cut off buds with barkwood. Please share your views on this so I can clarify this subject. Thank you .in advance for any more replies.

Laaz,

thank you! I see it now - you are absolutely right, it is wide.

railakis, I'm just a beginner... but speaking with several very experienced grafters, none of them mentioned that "no bark" method you use. I was under the impression that bark is essential since cambium (I hope I use the right words) layers must be aligned and sort-of grow into each other. Am I totally wrong? But again, my opinion is no expert's one by all means. Let's wait for grafting gurus.

Good luck!

He is not speaking of "no bark" but of "no wood".
(I presume)

Correct, no wood. The budstick has to be a green, pencil thick , yearly shoot and budded onto a similar thickness yearly ,rootstock shoot.

This is mainly practiced by farmers here that want to change the variety of an old citrus tree. They would cut the tree completely , a meter or so from ground level,during mid March, then if the rootstock is vigorous , they will graft the new shoots in 3-5 months.
I asked many and no one practices bark grafting on citrus trees then again no one knows of parafilm ,etc.