Here are some pictures of my recent bark grafting attempts with small budwood.

This one is out of focus, but one of the first that was successful-- actually has 2 sprouts.

This is one of the smallest I have done, but it is already sprouting


This is a inlay bark graft that I was able to wrap against the trunk of a marcotted trifoliate-- if you look close you can see a tiny bud beginning to break on this meyer lemon.

Another inlay bark graft I recently put on my Ponkan.


Two more recent bark grafts on my lisbon lemon.

Two more that I did a couple months ago when it was really hot. The nearest one is a piece of the calamondin branch that was broken off, the far one is a ponkan I put on my lisbon lemon.

Nice going there Skeet! I had similar success with my bark graft method but I named it Joe's Bark Graft. I'll post my pics soon.

Benny

Thanks Benny, -- most of these are Joe's Bark Graft method too, but the ones I was calling an inlay bark graft are a slight modification-- I just don't cut the limb off and I make a slot like I would for a T-bud and insert the scion in the middle of the limb. I prepare the scion just like I would for Joe's bark graft.

I did one today that was tiny! I put a Nagami kumquat on my Miewa that was about 1.5 mm in diameter and just an inch long.

congrats Skeet!! they look great!!
I think I'm going to try bark grafting with citrus next.. it went well with the persimmon and pecan..

Gina *BabyBlue*

Congratulations people! All nice work.

Even master gardeners here in California have success rates of 33% for grafting persimmons. Not to boast, but I have been consistently getting 100% success rate each year when bark grafting them just after the leaf opens on the target branch.

When you have bigger or mature citrus trees, T or Chip budding will take, about 100% success rate, but less than half of them will sprout! Bark grafting has been close to 95% success rate, but they will surely sprout or surely die out. I still have T-buds that are green, but three years now, they haven't sprouted.

Bark grafting is the one with the highest overall success rate (the cultivar sprouted and grows well) when adding new cultivars on big or mature citrus trees. It is probably your best option during the heat of the summer.

When grafting unto seedling rootstocks, I use either the T-budding or chip budding and not bark grafting.

Thanks to Joe! Without his great pictorial tutoring, I'm sure many of us would be struggling if not giving up.

Joe, have you done the bark grafting in the middle of the limb like I did on several ( I called it an inlay bark graft, but I don't know if there is already another name for it or not). It is just like T-budding to me and if you get just the right bend and cut on the scion, you can wrap it right against the trunk or limb. I have used it on rooted cuttings without cutting the top off yet ( I may add more cultivars as I move up the trunk).

Skeeter, I did that on roses and pears earlier. The only drawback is that it doesn't form a good angle and so just simply did the bark graft. But for novelty, it can be good to display specimens of various citruses up a vigorous trunk.

This was also the time when I was disputing that using a pencil sharpener and a drill would not work very well on citruses to form the same kind of tree but with a better angle.