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Water - an issue !
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Citrus Growers Forum Index du Forum -> Container citrus
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danero2004
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Posted: Sun 11 Dec, 2011 4:06 pm

Many of us had or have problems with the water especially with overwatering which causes WLD because of the low temp at root level and high temps on the upper part

But never had to ask myself , how low can I go with underwatering.

I've tested this winter a low watering schedule on my house plants , all of them are doing ok even when the soil is completely bone dry, and I would like to share some info on this type of schedule on lemon trees , mostly those in CHC , but also those in readily-made soil for citruses.

How the roots will withstand such schedule ? When they will reach the limit of unrecoverable point of no return ?

Thanks
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Millet
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Posted: Sun 11 Dec, 2011 6:41 pm

Daniel, why don't you just water with warm water during the winter months?- Millet (400-)
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danero2004
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Posted: Sun 11 Dec, 2011 7:08 pm

well I do so , but in that room , temps are going really low , 10C or in the middle of the winter maybe lower 8C (45 F) and even I water with warm water , those roots will get cold very quickly and above all much wet.

Those that are in the house are watered with warm water and they are doing ok , but some of them are in this cool room and I don't want neither to lose them because of overwatering in winter months or from underwatering too.

How safe it is to let the soil dry a little more? Even under 10% humidity.

This is te first winter I try to see how well will they be in cooler rooms , and also to spare some $$ on heat bill.
Also give them and to me some rest. Laughing
Thanks
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Radoslav
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Posted: Sun 11 Dec, 2011 7:42 pm

My theory is, that plant can be easily killed by overwatering during winter, but is hard to kill by dry soil. My "plan" during winter is simple, I do not watering plant, until I see twisted leaves and feel soil dry on touch. Temperature of soil in my greenhouse varies mostly around 5 celsius.
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danero2004
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Posted: Sun 11 Dec, 2011 7:56 pm

I went with Millet sayings that you can weight the pot , and I did so , and it felt very light , but still no effects on leaves, so I was confused , the pot had signs that I should water but the tree was ok with the amount of the water present allready in the pot , as little as it was.
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Millet
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Posted: Mon 12 Dec, 2011 1:25 am

In a cool room when the tree's roots are at a temperature below 55.4F ( 13C) the tree's root system becomes "dormant", and is only able to send up very little water to the foliage. However, when the tree's foliage is also at a temperature below 55.4F the foliage is "dormant", and requires very little water, because the loss of water from its leaves through transpiration is also very small, (provided the leaves are not receiving direct sunlight). Given all this, it is still unwise to let the root system become totally dry, so keep an eye on the tree for any sign of it becoming overly stressed. If the cool room trees are growing in a CHC medium it is difficult to over water a tree. A citrus tree, out of direct sunlight, in a cool room will not require much water, but remember, is is NOT the amount of water that kills, or damages the root system, it is the lack of available oxygen to the roots that kills, or damages, the root system. The best to Daniel and his trees.- Millet (400-)
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danero2004
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Posted: Mon 12 Dec, 2011 3:54 am

Thanks Millet ....I will try to do so but being my first winter I'm a little affraid Smile.
Also I will check the darkness on some citrus seedlings Smile
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Radoslav
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Posted: Mon 12 Dec, 2011 7:46 am

Judging by my experiences, I think, that citrus winter behavior strongly depends of used rootstock. Poncirus can by killed by too dry conditions during winter, citrus plants grafted on volkameriana show stress marks, like twisted leaves much faster, than on other rootstocks. Best rootstocks for my conditions in greenhouse are citranges.
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MarcV
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Posted: Mon 12 Dec, 2011 8:49 am

Looks like the circumstances where I keep my plants during the winter are similar to yours, with temperatures varying between 10..13C and reasonably bright light on sunny days. My plants seem to keep on growing slowly, even pushing some flowers. And just like previous winter my buddhas hand is losing all of its leaves (while producing flowers!). The other plants lose leaves too, but not as much and only old ones.

I keep the soil moist. Doesn't seem to cause any problems. And as I still notice growth, I add some fertiliser too.

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danero2004
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Posted: Mon 12 Dec, 2011 4:09 pm

Loosing leaves might no be from excessive watering , maybe it is because of the strange wheather we are experiencing now Smile
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SeaHorse_Fanatic
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Posted: Wed 14 Dec, 2011 8:34 am

My citrus are in a temporary greenhouse and I didn't water for several weeks and they were fine. Just watered them the other day when the weather was nice and used warm water. Don't plan on watering them again for quite a while.

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danero2004
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Posted: Sat 17 Dec, 2011 6:13 am

Another problem with water is : How warm should it be , lukewarm/warm as in the middle/hot

How do you get the best results on the time that the pot stays warm?
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Sven_limoen
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Posted: Sat 24 Dec, 2011 12:32 pm

danero2004 wrote:
Another problem with water is : How warm should it be , lukewarm/warm as in the middle/hot

How do you get the best results on the time that the pot stays warm?


I use roomtemp water. I was always wondering what would happen with actual warm water. Wouldn't that shock the plant?

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growing (at least trying): C. sinensis, C. latifolia, C. limon, C. mitis
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Millet
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Posted: Sat 24 Dec, 2011 12:57 pm

Sven_limoen wrote: >" Wouldn't that shock the plant?"<

The answer is no. Container citrus should be watered with warm water during the winter months. - Millet (387 ABO-)
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danero2004
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Posted: Sat 24 Dec, 2011 2:31 pm

yes , but at 40F isn't warm water too "warm" , I always knew that the water should have the same temp as pot have.

Merry christmas everyone ! Very Happy
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