My containers stay outside May-September. They never like the move indoors. Mandors (European Novas) seem ok. My two Calamondins flowered great in two big flushes, literally hundreds of flowers and are full of tiny fruit. BUT, they are now shedding leaves like crazy. The new leaves of this year are fine, but the older smaller leaves are drying up and falling. I haven't watered them yet at all and the surface of the compost feels dry but I think they may be too wet further down from all the rain this summer, the pots feel heavy anyway. I normally do not water them from above at all. Every 3 weeks or when the pots begin to feel too light I submerge the whole pot in a bigger container full or water (and fertilizer when required). I read the instructions above on wintering and my plants are within all the limits temperature wise. They only get about 6-7 hours daylight because that's all we have in November - February. I use liquid fertilizer. How often do you fertilize your containers indoors during the cold period? Advice appreciated.

Newbie to citrus growing

I had my Calamondin outside to december. -13*C. I remove the fruit when i take it inside. The plant are stlll living and well. Set more than 200 fruit.

Also check the root temps. The major cause of WLD is that the root zone is too cold with the top of the tree sitting in direct sunlight. Water very little in the winter when the tree is inside.

If the tree's soil structure has a high air porosity content, and is free draining, you never have to worry about over watering a citrus tree. Remember, it is not over watering that damages a citrus tree, it is the LACK OF OXYGEN caused by over watering a compacted soil that causes the problem. In soils that have become compacted the water fills all the air spaces, thus driving out the oxygen from the soil. In a free draining soil this does not happen, because oxygen re-enters the root zone very quickly, no matter how often or how much water is applied. Six hours of sunshine is adequate of an indoor citrus tree. Lastly, If you keep the root zone at 70F (20C) you will not have winter leaf drop. If you cannot keep the root zone at (20C) then keep the tree out of direct sun light. - Millet

I think when you get to around 96F the roots won't develop, but I don't know many households that get that hot. As long as you can keep the roots over 60F-65F and under about 90F you shouldn't experience leaf drop in winter

aesir is correct. The lowest recommended temperature to avoid winter leaf drop (WLD) is 64F (18C). However, I recommended 70F to be totally free from WLD. Citrus roots can withstand a very wide range of temperatures. However, below 55.4F (13C) and above 95F (35C) all citrus root growth stops. To prevent winter leaf drop, you have two choices. Either heat the soil, or keep the tree out of direct light. Often, after bright, sunny mid-winter days, more leaves are shed than after longer periods of less bright light. - Millet

FYI, I left my cal outside and it didnt mind 20 f, it was on a open porch though sheltered from the frost.