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How do I fix an iron defeciency in my citrus??
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David.
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Posted: Mon 28 Dec, 2009 2:28 am

I applied fertilizer with trace elements like 2 months back but my plant still shows iron defeciency.
Thx David[/img]

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Malcolm_Manners
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Posted: Mon 28 Dec, 2009 2:47 am

Do you know (or can you test) your soil pH? If it's above 7.0 (assuming your trees are on citrus rootstocks) or 6.5 (if on Poncirus trifoliata rootstock), you're likely to see iron deficiency, regardless of the amount of iron in the soil, since it is not available to the plant. You could try lowering the pH with sulfur or iron sulfate, or you could buy iron in a chelated form.

In any case, it is not recommended to spray an iron-based material on the foliage -- usually if you get the concentration high enough to do any good, you end up burning the leaves with it. So through the roots is the way to go.

Iron deficiency will also show up if the trunk is injured or if the root system is compromises (due to flooding, etc.).
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Steve
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Posted: Sat 02 Jan, 2010 1:08 pm

Sorry, Malcolm,
but I have trees on Volk, Rangpur, SourOrange and even Limes as rooted cutting, and my soil pH is 7,5 up to 8... but I do not encounter iron deficiency.

First of all, I would recommend to post a picture, just to be sure we deal with an true iron deficiency and next we need especilly informations on rootstock and soil... that's what needed.

But in Australia, they grow Poncirus trifoliata on alkaline grounds in replant situations. They treat the deficiency in manganese, iron and zinc by regular foliar applications or those trace elements by spraying it as chelate sprays on and in the tree canopy

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Millet
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Posted: Sat 02 Jan, 2010 4:53 pm

Personally, I would follow Malcolm Manner's advice on this subject. - Millet (1,108-)
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mrtexas
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Posted: Sat 02 Jan, 2010 6:27 pm

Lack of trace minerals can cause leaves not too green or not enough nitrogen. I apply STEM to the leaves every time I spray in the summer and the leaves really green up dark. I'd be happy to mail you a pound for what I paid + shipping. I had to buy 25# which is enough for 10 lifetimes.

http://members.fortunecity.com/pjsauber/Citrus%20deficiencies.htm
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David.
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Posted: Sat 02 Jan, 2010 7:24 pm

i am getting mixed feelings on what is actually wrong with my citrus.
it has some dead twigs randomly everywhere and i am seeing that asian something bug on all of my new growth right now .(Citrus greening) i dont know
heres a link to a picture of my lemon tree
link
let me know what you think there

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Steve
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Posted: Sat 02 Jan, 2010 9:21 pm

Millet,
you can get close to Malcom, but it won't change my experience.
It's a good advice to keep the trees and those ph levels, but if you cannot or do not what to... well.... you can do, if using ph tolerant rootstocks.

But on the picture, well, I haven't seen any greening personaly, but those leave symptomes I found myself on salt problems. If the ground contains to much disoved salts, the tree roots get damaged and such leaf symptomes get visible...

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Malcolm_Manners
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Posted: Sat 02 Jan, 2010 9:36 pm

Steve, I'm not sure how I've insulted or angered you, but I'm truly sorry if that has happened. I hope we're not enemies! And congratulations on your healthy citrus. I don't doubt your observations on your trees are true.

However, my advice was not my opinion; it was the result of more than 100 years of research in Florida's citrus industry, and at least under our conditions (which I fully realize are different from yours), it is incontrovertibly true.

Malcolm
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David.
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Posted: Sat 02 Jan, 2010 9:51 pm

malcolm would you be able to agree with that there are some high slat levels in my soil. or do you think there is another issue and anything to fix it would help
thx david

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Malcolm_Manners
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Posted: Sun 03 Jan, 2010 12:05 am

The second photo, of the avocado tree with the dying leaves -- high salts was my first thought there, although it bothers me that some leaves are so badly affected, while others are not. Might this plant have been over-fertilized, and then the excess salts washed away later? I'm not sure what else would show that situation.

On your citrus trees, I see no indication of too much salt, although there certainly could be. I think Millet is right that the first one is showing fairly strong magnesium deficiency (perhaps along with a bit of biuret toxicity?? Does your fertilizer have a lot of urea in it?), and that the last one is fairly typical manganese deficiency.

Magnesium can be corrected as suggested above, with epsom salts applications to the soil. OR you could use a very dilute foliar spray.

Manganese deficiency, on the other hand, is difficult to correct with soil applications, even if the soil pH is nearly perfect -- it's a slow process, requiring multiple applications over a long time. However, it can be corrected very quickly with a dilute foliar spray. So for those two elements, I like the idea of foliar spray.

I don't see specific symptoms of iron deficiency in these photos, although the other deficiencies could be masking mild Fe deficiency, I suppose.

Malcolm
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Steve
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Posted: Mon 04 Jan, 2010 6:30 am

Malcolm_Manners wrote:
Steve, I'm not sure how I've insulted or angered you, but I'm truly sorry if that has happened...


No, you did not.
Sorry, if my formulation of words may have caused this, but as english is not my mother language, maybe for you the reading could have this effect.. So please, forgive if I in error choosed the wrong spelling or the wrong syntax.


Quote:
However, my advice was not my opinion; it was the result of more than 100 years of research in Florida's citrus industry, and at least under our conditions (which I fully realize are different from yours), it is incontrovertibly true.


Well, Malcom.
That's an interesting point on view!
As I watch over citrus industries, I see that we have younger ones, like the australian citrus industry or the japanish citrus industry, and having older ones, like spain, italy or even california.
So research is a thing, we know, deals often with thing not natural.
I fully agree, that the ph of 7 will fit for most citrus stocks, and even a lot of Poncirus Hybrid stocks will do well in ph 7, also there are some citrus stocks, too, which like more to be grown in a ph of 6.5, like the Poncirus trifoliata itself...
But, you might agree, it's difficult to tell your ochard ground what ph it should have.
So on many Florida alfisouls the ph is higher than the recommended ph of 7 or less, so the well liked Carrizo will suffer here very quickly from micronutrient deficiencies. making the growers often battle with micronutrient sprays for the trees compared to slowly dying trees on CTV, because using a rootstock fitting better to the ground.

That's allways the battle, in all those decades or centuries of growing citrus - the choose of the site, the best fitting cultivar and the best rootstock.
What the luck it would be to find a rootstock, which would produce the same quality of fruit of Poncirus trifoliata, having the resistance to CTV and Phytophthora like the one above, but will also be tolerant to high alkaline soils, but be also tolerant to greening, cold, the viroids of Cachexia and Xyloporosis Group and having a strong tolerance to blight and also Mal Secco....
Such an "all purpose" rootstock, that's what caused very hard research and try-outs, but since yet, I guess, this seek was still vain.

So, I agree: You can advice those ph for most circumstances, but make it easy: Common stocks, and I do not know any which does not, do well in a soil of ph 6.5
So why making a difference in 7 and 6.5? Slight acid or netral does not make real difference, even for a Poncirus trifoliata...
So 6.5 is recommended....

The game goes on, if your ground is not... easy, if you have 6 or 5.5, because raising the ph can be done more easily, as to lower the ph from 7.5 or 8 to the desired 6.5...


And that's what I was guessing about... Because if the soil ph isn't that good, the first step is: How is the soil, texture and ph?
We do not know... So it's a battle we cannot win, because we do not know anything about our opponent - the soil.

so I know my soil and my circumstances... My top soil is alkanine, having a ph of 7.5 to 8, but in the depth of about one foot it starts to get sandy loamy and the ph changes from alkaline to acid... So young
Poncirus trifoliatas deal in the first times with some effects of the alkaline soils, but once realy established, they won't how any defficiency symptome anymore...
And for my container plants: I use my tap water for irrigation, and so the ph in the container is highly influenced by that water... so I often had to deal with a soil ph of 8.... and I abandoned Poncirus trifolata as a rootstock. It deals good with the potting circumstances, but won't deal good with year round warm indoor culture and my effective soil ph... So I choosed a different stock, and it lead to the first success in my culture...
All this won't affect what you said or the research has found out... but here practice and theorie show, how the things are tied together or not Rolling Eyes

Hope you understand, what I tried to tell - starts to get philosphically here

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Malcolm_Manners
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Posted: Mon 04 Jan, 2010 2:46 pm

In Florida's soils that are naturally at a pH above 6.5, we use very little Carrizo, Swingle, or other hybrids, and almost no Poncirus at all. It's just not worth it. Fortunately, most of the soils on which our industry is based, are naturally down in the pH 4.5 range, so we bring the pH up with generous use of liming agents, mostly dolomite. For the hybrids (especially Swingle), we'd like to stay BELOW 6.5 -- 5.5-6.0 is far better. For true genus citrus rootstocks, higher is acceptable, but as it approaches 7.0, we will see nutrient deficiencies, which may require foliar sprays (and therefore added production costs.) While the numbers 6.5 and 7 appear to be quite close to each other, in the actual chemistry of the soil, there is a huge difference in micronutrient availability between those two.

The one reason we sometimes recommend getting closer to 7 in a grove is if it has received an abundance of copper-based fungicidal sprays over many years, so that the copper load in the soil is high. A higher pH will fix that Cu in the soil, so that the tree is not injured by it.
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Steve
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Posted: Mon 04 Jan, 2010 5:20 pm

Well Malcolm,
but there are commercial ochards even in grounds with ph well above 7.5, as far as I know... and I guess premium Grapefruit are usually grown there....

So most of the ochards are in the acid soils, but there are some ochards in alkaline soils in a very good production. And I guess there is no spray need, if you use non-trifoliata stocks....

And if you look beyond the large pool of water to israel, morocco, sicily or tunesia, you will find even here commercial ochards in high alkaline soils, usually by limestone saturisation.
Even here, usually no micronutrient sprays are neccessary, because the right stock is in use.
These circumstances we can also find in Texas and Arizona, were we can find such alkline soils widely planted commercially...
And even here, usually no etra nutrient sprays are needed.

That's what I am informed of, and for Israel, Tunesia, morocco and italy I have no doubt that the informations are true.

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Malcolm_Manners
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Posted: Mon 04 Jan, 2010 10:38 pm

Steve,
Yes, a few areas would have soil pH levels above 7.5, up to about 8.3 in a few areas of south Florida. Most of those areas no longer grow citrus, due to canker and greening, but when they did, they did so with genus Citrus rootstocks, heavy use of chelated iron to the soil (Sequestrene 330 Fe or similar for pH around 7.5 or Sequestrene 138Fe or similar for higher pH -- an astounding expense), and other micronutrients (at least Mn, and Zn) applied as foliar sprays, at least once and often twice a year. Magnesium can be soil applied for rough lemon rootstock; in most other cases, though, Mg is also applied in foliar sprays. I've also worked with citrus growers in Egypt, and found much the same thing. I'm not aware of such an area where micronutrient sprays are not used; certainly they are "standard" in US agriculture in high-pH soils. I'm not sure where you may have heard that they are not used, but they are.
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Steve
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Posted: Tue 05 Jan, 2010 8:10 am

Well, Malcolm, here we start to split in experience and in knwoledge. In deep respect: I first had to watch in my books, to give you reference, before I post here out of the box (memory) right now.
But I will get back, if I got the informations together, with the references for you.

"The end of higher education is, not to believe in anything written!"
But here we need a basis, a foundation, to share experience and knowledge... something to start from.
And that's why a first had to do the reference works.

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