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How to prune potted seedling to max. node count/fruiting?

 
Citrus Growers Forum Index du Forum -> Container citrus
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Gene_WashDC
Citruholic
Citruholic


Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 31
Location: zone 7b/8a

Posted: Tue 03 Mar, 2009 4:01 pm

I bought a young seedling 'Changshou Kumquat' last year that has done very well. While I'd love to try it out in the garden with my Yuzu, looks like it'll need to stay forever in the pot. (I'm in Wash. DC which goes back and forth between 7b and 8a climate)

What's the best way to prune to encourage fruiting? It has one vigorous central leader, but also has a few slow growing side branches. My thought is to lop off the vigorous leader, and let the bushy, slow growing side branches take over. This would keep the size more manageable. Would it also encourage more nodes on a smaller plant and hopefully result in earlier fruiting?
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Laaz
Site Owner
Site Owner


Joined: 12 Nov 2005
Posts: 5682
Location: Dorchester County, South Carolina

Posted: Wed 04 Mar, 2009 11:38 am

Pruning will induce vegetative growth, not flowering. Most citrus only flower once a year, so it will still take a few years at best to begin fruiting. That being said, cutting the tips of the last flush after they have hardened off will force new growth.

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Millet
Citruholic
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Joined: 13 Nov 2005
Posts: 6656
Location: Colorado

Posted: Wed 04 Mar, 2009 12:12 pm

The required node count number for maturity/blooming for a seedling tree, is finally reached as the tree grows higher and higher. Not from lateral growth (branch nodes.) Therefore, if you cut any of the upward growth you are stopping the node count from reaching maturity. - Millet (1,417-)
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Gene_WashDC
Citruholic
Citruholic


Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 31
Location: zone 7b/8a

Posted: Wed 04 Mar, 2009 2:09 pm

Thanks for the replies!
Guess I was hoping that I'd have a new node at every point of new growth after pruning, and I could thereby shorten the normal distance between nodes by pruning most, but not all, of the length of the new growth.
I was extrapolating from my pruning method with figs and muscadines where I leave one, maybe two nodes from the previous year's growth for new growth to sprout from -- but I realize now that the goals are totally different.
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