Thanks in advance for any information!

I have an unknown type nectarine tree that I purchased as a prior season's tree, in its dormant state. The first year I had it, approx. 2 weeks after planting in the ground, new growth and flowers exploded on it. I thinned the tree, and even after thinning probably had around 40 or so fruits. I was going to harvest them because it was finally time to taste the fruits of my labor, (hurricanes were coming too) but unfortunately, I could not get to them before the local wildlife did though. I don't remember what the fruit looked like, and never saw the insides of them. This spring will be the second year I've had it. I also don't know what the scion was, all I know was that it was a nectarine. (sorry)

Now, my poor little tree is finally showing growth again (it just barely put out new leaves last year), and I am pretty certain the new growth is below the graft line. I don't know what the rootstock is, I'm guessing it's probably either a nectarine or peach (more likely a peach). Will this rootstock (without knowing what it is) be able to produce fruit?
I think that if it doesn't do anything this year, I will make a chill box that I've read about (I think from someone on here), and if that doesn't work, graft a low chill variety of nectarine (I've heard good things about Sunraycer and Sunmist) onto the current rootstock.

Does this sound feasible (or even make sense?)

I may be wrong about the new growth being below the graft line, but there is a distinct texture and appearance of bark, and a large knot. Here are two photos showing different sides of the growth and the knot.







Thanks again!
Christine

That could be a rootstock growing most likely, the more of them the better, the many places to graft to.

Here's a sample of grafting appropriate for nectarines:
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=4148728&a=31606026&f=

Or here:

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/citrus/budding/budding.htm

And welcome Christine for joining..

Christine, welcome to the Citrus Growers Forum. Very glad that you joined, you are very welcome here. Take care, and again welcome. - Millet

Thank you Millet and Bencelest for the warm welcome, and thank you to Bencelest for inviting me to this forum. I've been going through all of the posts and I've found so much helpful information.

Thanks, JoeReal, I actually looked at the photo album you had on cleft grafting less than an hour prior to posting my question. I have it saved in my internet favorites as a guide for when I actually graft the tree. Very good information, thank you for posting it. I like the step by step photos, as I'm not one for guessing what I have to do next. I have gardener's support wrap, stake support wrap. It's about 1/2" wide, and green, can I use that? I see that what you used and what other's have used is specific white grafting tape. I don't see a big difference, but there may be one that I don't know of.

I think I am going to graft this as soon as it becomes more mature since I'm now 99% positive that it's rootstock growing from my nectarine. Although I think that will have to wait until next spring since they are no wider than a pencil.
The large limbs that are sticking out are dead, after reading so many articles and books on pruning nectarines, which all stated that they needed severe pruning, I followed their advice. That was two years ago after the fruit "theft", obviously I did something wrong since they died. I should have left it alone. We learn from experience.

Should I cut those down more or just leave them alone? My problem is that I don't know how far down they go and I don't want to kill what is left of it. I don't know if nectarines perform the same way as citrus and other plants do. If one prunes above a bud if it will form two other branches. I did, however, nip the end growth and new growth is forming right below it. I don't want it to terminate vertical growth at the height it is now, I'll never get anywhere with it.


Thank you again for the welcome and for the information!

Christine

Christine:
The advantage of using clear plastic tape is to help the bark see sunlight so photosynthesis takes place . But if you don't have any why wait? Also those budding tape are elastic which help to keep the wound tight and secure. Some people use wider rubber band one that is3/8" wide as budding tape.
Benny

Christine:
I just posted new pictures of my grafted satsuma plum to suckers of a santa rosa plum to convince you that suckers have some uses. I did grafting also to some of my other trees which bear sour fruit or does not taste good or does not fruit at all. Please see them at the post your pics thread.

correction:
I did grafting also to some of my trees THAT bear sour fruit......instead of WHICH