Will my citrus grow at all now that the temps have hit 105-110 for until October? Do I alter my fert program?

Not unless your under 50% shade and have insulated containers. Most important is the container, 15 to 20 gallon size containers get to hot for the root structure and feeder root systems just burn.

So if I want to keep these in managable pots the answer is no. Or heavy shade right?

Insulate your pots so the roots don't cook, Pot in a Pot systems work real well.

Citrus stop all vegetative growth below 55.4F, and *IF* I remember correctly (without bothering to look it up) citrus growth slows way down at temperatures above 96F. - Millet (1,276-)

Interesting. I have 4 citrus. 2 in ground, and 2 in containers. They all get morning sun only, and they are all on a drip system 1/2 gal per hour, 3 days a week for 3 hours at a time.

Our temps in the summer are never lower than 103 Degrees F, and mostly 109+.

A few weeks ago, I pinched every branch at the end, started playing classical music to them, and the hot weather growth is amazing! 8-15 new branches on each one!! They are growing so hard and fast, today I pinched again!

Is it the heat or the music? I'll never know, but the heat is certainly NOT a drawback!

Probably caused by the many golf courses in La Quinta, it must be a cool breeze from errant golf balls flying passed the tree. - Millet 1,252-)

My growth has stopped for alomost two months now, but it was also the hottest July on record here and thats saying something. Lots of 110+ days.

Probably the actual container mix temperature is more important than the forecast air temperature. It may be a good chance to actually measure temp. on hot days, as it may be quite different to whats expected. Also any part of the pot that gets direct sun could be far hotter than the shady side etc.
I agree that insulating is worthwhile.

As for fertilizer, be aware that depending on your watering system , during periods of hot weather, the hydration of your container mix will probably go up and down more than usual. At the same time the actual concentration of fertilizer in your mix will also vary accordingly.
For example if you apply 1 litre of 10% strength liquid fertilizer to your pot, but half of the 1 litre evaporates, it may be closer to 20% strength in the end.
In the same way any as yet unused fertilizer in your mix from past applications will vary somewhat along with how wet or dry the mix gets.
In these cases you can get very high fertilizer concentrations in your mix
if the pots go dry soon after you apply fertilizer. Simply put the salinity levels in your container mix could go damagingly high.

The release rate of temperature controlled slow release fertilizers( ie osmocote etc) will also be faster as the temperature rises, so you may need to apply less than usual ammounts of these to avoid similar problems as above. Also most of these types have a monthly life span rating such as 3month, 6month, 12month, etc usually based around 20'c temp.
At higher average container temperatures they will release faster and have shorter lifespans. The 3 month and 6month types may be too fast acting under long periods of hot weather, so it may be wise to apply less or change to longer rated formulations.

That is why drainage is important. It really helps prevent mineral build up. When the potting media gets regular drainage, the solute concentration will tend to equilibriate with that of the solution applied and then drained away preventing run away build up of minerals. It is the same with lakes if it doesn't drain or don't have any outlet then it becomes salty.

The reason that Osmocote is made to release nutrition in relation to the temperature, is to match the growth cycle of plants. For citrus, when the temperature increases in the Spring and Summer the growth rate of citrus is rapid thus requiring extra nutrition, and during the winter citrus growth is slow to none, requiring little nutrition. Slow release fertilizers like Osmocote have faster release rates when the temperatures rise, and reduce the amount of nutrition release when the temperatures cool. Therefore a plant and the nutrition are in sink when fed with Osmocote. As Joe real notes, there is no soluble solids build up in a proper fast darning medium. The University of California's (UCR) containerized citrus trees at their CCPP facility, are fed fertilizers at 300 PPM N with every watering - all the time with no problems. - Millet (1,249-)