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TRI Citruholic
Joined: 13 Jan 2010 Posts: 399 Location: Homestead, FL Zone 10
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Posted: Thu 12 May, 2011 12:05 am |
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There is a huge rainfall deficit this year and must start watering my citrus plants. How much water must I apply and how far from the trunk? Is night time a good time to water? In the day it is so hot much of the water evaporates before reaching the ground. This is probably the worst drought here in many years! Most years I do not have to water but it is so dry here now. It has been about five weeks since I last watered and usually apply water from a foot past the trunk to the drip line. Do the roots extend beyond the drip line? So far the in ground citrus plants do not seem to suffer drought stress yet but the soil is very very dry.
I use a water hose and nozzle to apply water and probably do not distribute the water efficiently but I try the best I can. There is a large surface area between the trunk and drip line so it takes a lot of time to complete the irrigation. |
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BobsCitrus Citruholic
Joined: 23 Feb 2011 Posts: 84 Location: Hot and Windy, Tucson, AZ : Zone 9a
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Posted: Fri 13 May, 2011 2:25 am |
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TRI,
The best thing you can do for yourself and your trees is to put that hose down on the ground and let a slow trickle, or better a soaker hose, put that water where it belongs, deep into the ground, instead of making water vapor and not getting the depth of penetration you need. You may need to put a berm or similar containing structure around the perimeter of the drip line.
Hand watering is generally shallow watering, and, as you guessed, highly inefficient. I water about a foot beyond the drip line to be on the safe side.
Find a nice seat in the shade, and let time do the work. I generally water in the late afternoon/early evening rather than the heat of the day. Everyone says early morning is best, but I am at work at that time, so must do the best I can.
Eric |
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mrtexas Citruholic
Joined: 02 Dec 2005 Posts: 1030 Location: 9a Missouri City,TX
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Posted: Fri 13 May, 2011 1:48 pm |
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TRI wrote: | There is a huge rainfall deficit this year and must start watering my citrus plants. How much water must I apply and how far from the trunk? Is night time a good time to water? In the day it is so hot much of the water evaporates before reaching the ground. This is probably the worst drought here in many years! Most years I do not have to water but it is so dry here now. It has been about five weeks since I last watered and usually apply water from a foot past the trunk to the drip line. Do the roots extend beyond the drip line? So far the in ground citrus plants do not seem to suffer drought stress yet but the soil is very very dry.
I use a water hose and nozzle to apply water and probably do not distribute the water efficiently but I try the best I can. There is a large surface area between the trunk and drip line so it takes a lot of time to complete the irrigation. |
I just put in a drip system due to the dry conditions here. It is very cheap and no hand watering. 1/2 inch line is 10ct a foot. |
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avinyard Citruholic
Joined: 13 Jul 2009 Posts: 27 Location: Austin, TX
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Posted: Fri 13 May, 2011 6:21 pm |
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Ditto. Drip's the way to go. I installed drip irrigation this winter. All I have to do is go out and turn the faucet on and then remember to come back and turn it off (remembering is the hard part). Fruit trees, vegetable garden and flower beds all look nice. Yard looks like dook, but that's normal for Texas in summer, unless you're willing to go the extra mile. |
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Darkman Citruholic
Joined: 20 Jul 2010 Posts: 968 Location: Pensacola Florida South of I-10 Zone 8b/9a
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Posted: Sat 14 May, 2011 12:59 am |
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I really wanted to go with the drip but my ground is so sandy that I would only be watering a 10" diameter circle at each drip. I have decided to go with micro sprinklers to insure that the entire root zone is watered.
The roots will grow beyond the drip line. _________________ Charles in Pensacola
Life - Some assembly required, As is no warranty, Batteries not included, Instructions shipped separately and are frequently wrong!
Kentucky Bourbon - It may not solve the problem but it helps to make it tolerable! |
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Darkman Citruholic
Joined: 20 Jul 2010 Posts: 968 Location: Pensacola Florida South of I-10 Zone 8b/9a
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Posted: Mon 20 Jun, 2011 9:55 pm |
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I've been watering with overhead irrigation so that my vegatable garden and citrus trees both get water BUT the veggies are declining with the heat of Summer except okra and peppers and I now have to get serious with the dedicated micro sprinklers to the citrus. My irrigation bill was $230.00! That was only plant irrigation and not house or sewer. Anybody want to buy a Satsuma fruit for $20.00? I'm also selling tomatos for $3.00 apiece! LOL _________________ Charles in Pensacola
Life - Some assembly required, As is no warranty, Batteries not included, Instructions shipped separately and are frequently wrong!
Kentucky Bourbon - It may not solve the problem but it helps to make it tolerable! |
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Millet Citruholic
Joined: 13 Nov 2005 Posts: 6657 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Mon 20 Jun, 2011 11:23 pm |
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Having to pay for water, you must be using municipal water, rather then well water. - Millet (573-) |
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TRI Citruholic
Joined: 13 Jan 2010 Posts: 399 Location: Homestead, FL Zone 10
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Posted: Tue 21 Jun, 2011 11:57 pm |
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Drip irrigation is very efficient but in really sandy soil you need at least 2GPH drippers. 4GPH drippers should be more than sufficient even in the most sandy soil. When you water with sprinklers half the water evaporates before reaching the ground! |
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Darkman Citruholic
Joined: 20 Jul 2010 Posts: 968 Location: Pensacola Florida South of I-10 Zone 8b/9a
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Posted: Fri 24 Jun, 2011 11:39 pm |
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Millet wrote: | Having to pay for water, you must be using municipal water, rather then well water. - Millet (573-) |
For now but I have contacted a well driller. Hopefully I'll have one later this year. It is about $2,500.00 for a 4" well at a depth of about 330'. But with my water prices It will pay for itself quickly.
Tri wrote: | Drip irrigation is very efficient but in really sandy soil you need at least 2GPH drippers. 4GPH drippers should be more than sufficient even in the most sandy soil. When you water with sprinklers half the water evaporates before reaching the ground! |
When my system is automated it will water in the pre dawn hours and with the sandy soil it will be subsurface prior to evaporation occurring. _________________ Charles in Pensacola
Life - Some assembly required, As is no warranty, Batteries not included, Instructions shipped separately and are frequently wrong!
Kentucky Bourbon - It may not solve the problem but it helps to make it tolerable! |
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Selkirk Citruholic
Joined: 02 Jan 2007 Posts: 68 Location: Houston/Matagorda Texas
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Posted: Sat 25 Jun, 2011 2:04 am |
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It's been a few years (10-12) since I put my well in, but that a pretty good price for that well.
Darkman wrote: | Millet wrote: | Having to pay for water, you must be using municipal water, rather then well water. - Millet (573-) |
For now but I have contacted a well driller. Hopefully I'll have one later this year. It is about $2,500.00 for a 4" well at a depth of about 330'. But with my water prices It will pay for itself quickly.
Tri wrote: | Drip irrigation is very efficient but in really sandy soil you need at least 2GPH drippers. 4GPH drippers should be more than sufficient even in the most sandy soil. When you water with sprinklers half the water evaporates before reaching the ground! |
When my system is automated it will water in the pre dawn hours and with the sandy soil it will be subsurface prior to evaporation occurring. | |
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Darkman Citruholic
Joined: 20 Jul 2010 Posts: 968 Location: Pensacola Florida South of I-10 Zone 8b/9a
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Posted: Sat 25 Jun, 2011 11:45 am |
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Is a 4" well enough? How do you figure these things? Maybe I need a 6"? I don't want to not have enough. _________________ Charles in Pensacola
Life - Some assembly required, As is no warranty, Batteries not included, Instructions shipped separately and are frequently wrong!
Kentucky Bourbon - It may not solve the problem but it helps to make it tolerable! |
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Selkirk Citruholic
Joined: 02 Jan 2007 Posts: 68 Location: Houston/Matagorda Texas
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Posted: Mon 27 Jun, 2011 3:47 pm |
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Darkman wrote: | Is a 4" well enough? How do you figure these things? Maybe I need a 6"? I don't want to not have enough. |
First you need to come up with your water needs (amount,flow rate) then plan your pump around that. Talk with your well man on your needs and let him build a system around that.
My irrigation system is still on my to due list at this point. Still dragging the hose's around!!!
I'm just starting my research on irrigation, but one person that I ran into (has a large vineyard) has warned me on running it straight off the pump and my small tank (80gal?) Told me you run the risk of the pump cycling too many times and burning up. Said it's much better to get a secondary large tank (500-1000gal) and a secondary irrigation pump system. Not sure if I would use enough water to cycle my pump to many times but the concept made sense to me.
The site below has enough info to make your head hurt for a few days. Seems that some planning upfront will go a long way in getting the right system up front without to many costly mistakes. Spend some time in the "pumping systems tutorial" section.
http://www.irrigationtutorials.com/
Please report back once you have a plan, just might shorted the learning curve for some of us.
Selkirk |
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Selkirk Citruholic
Joined: 02 Jan 2007 Posts: 68 Location: Houston/Matagorda Texas
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Posted: Mon 27 Jun, 2011 3:57 pm |
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One more thing. I'm on very sandy to almost pure sand in some places.
The vineyard guy I talked with told me to go with the micro sprinklers also. Said the drip would go straight down in a very narrow column.
My plan would be to run them in the predawn time frame to reduce water loss. |
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Darkman Citruholic
Joined: 20 Jul 2010 Posts: 968 Location: Pensacola Florida South of I-10 Zone 8b/9a
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Posted: Mon 27 Jun, 2011 11:08 pm |
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Selkirk wrote: | One more thing. I'm on very sandy to almost pure sand in some places.
The vineyard guy I talked with told me to go with the micro sprinklers also. Said the drip would go straight down in a very narrow column.
My plan would be to run them in the predawn time frame to reduce water loss. |
Thanks Selkirk,
Likewise on the tank. I wonder how much a large capacity tank costs. Water doesn't really compress very well so I would think that sizing the pump would be important to stopping cycling. With my simple thinking I think I need a high volume pump since I will be watering about one acre and don't want the pump running all day. Thanks for the link I will look it over. _________________ Charles in Pensacola
Life - Some assembly required, As is no warranty, Batteries not included, Instructions shipped separately and are frequently wrong!
Kentucky Bourbon - It may not solve the problem but it helps to make it tolerable! |
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Tom Citruholic
Joined: 11 Nov 2008 Posts: 261 Location: Alabama [Central]
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Posted: Mon 27 Jun, 2011 11:44 pm |
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Ask the well driller how much water he thinks is available at the depth he thinks he will hit water. 4" wells are much cheaper than 6 " wells but the larger the well the larger the bearings and usually the larger wells have less problems. My 4 " well is about 350 feet deep and I get about 45 gallons per minute . I have a "cycle stop" that keeps the pump from going on and off all the time.
I have a small pressure tank. Unlike the old huge tanks , the smaller tank has only one line going into it. I can not make sense out of why it does not need another line coming out but it does not . It only serves to keep the pressure constant....I think. It's sorta like I can't believe a huge ship made of steel can float on water. I know why but it just doesn't really make sense....my step father in law had a concrete boat...and it had termites in the wooden frame work...
Also you can have several zones which help your well and pump cover more area. Auto timer is definitely the way to go. _________________ Tom in central Alabama |
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