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Most effective Bud-forcing treatment

 
Citrus Growers Forum Index du Forum -> Tutorials (Grafting and budding)
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igor.fogarasi
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Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 553
Location: Novi Sad, Serbia

Posted: Mon 09 Jul, 2012 12:47 pm

What is the best way of bud forcing?

I used to simply cut off the rest of stock at about 1" height above the bud, which often does the job.
However, recently I've read several articles which propose one of the following: bending (with tying), lopping, notching and other techniques... For the sake of getting the best benefits of nourishing branches (from the upper portion of the rootstock).

I've done several bud and chip grafts 11 days ago, which already seem to be taken. The T-cuts and chips have already healed, calloused, whilst the inserted buds are still green and do not look shriveled. Everything is growing rapidly, as we're experiencing an extremely hot weather here.

Bending rootstock technique seems very reasonable to me. The following research is worth taking a look. It gives an in-depth comparison of bending vs cutting treatment of rootstock in recently budded trees.

http://www.ars.usda.gov/research/publications/publications.htm?seq_no_115=83012

So my next task would be chosing the right bud forcing technique. What are your thoughts on this issue? Which bud forcing technique is more effective? Which one affects bud break (initiates scion growth) most? Which one of these provides the best growth pattern to the scion? I've read somwhere that bending technique results in more vigorous early scion growth. I don't know how much of that is true?

Best regards,
Igor
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turtleman
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Joined: 30 Nov 2008
Posts: 225
Location: Arizona

Posted: Tue 10 Jul, 2012 6:02 pm

In my operation we do both types your refer to,, its really a judgement call depending on the time of year and growth activity, the "bend and tie" is most common but for us it is also more time consuming,, but if I'm late in the seasons work and need to push the stock I'll bite the bullet and bend and tie.. If I'm budding in the fall I bud and cut,, we cut about 2 to 3 inches above the bud and seal in grafting wax to reduce die back.. Both methods have worked the same for us, but that varies on the growth season and time of year.
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igor.fogarasi
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Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 553
Location: Novi Sad, Serbia

Posted: Wed 11 Jul, 2012 4:43 am

Thank you for a comprehensive response! I've read through several publications regarding to bud-grafting and bud-forcing, alongside. More, or less, I came to the same conclusion. As you said "bite the bullet", I guess everything is a compromise in commercial citrus growing. I am a home-gardener and I pretty much have endless time for my hobby, so none of these techniques is time-consuming. Of course, if it affects scion growth better than a simple cut off. I'll take your advice and do half of my grafts with bending & tying and the rest with lopping technique, which I've also found very efficient when it comes to its effect on early scion growth.

Best,
Igor
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igor.fogarasi
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Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 553
Location: Novi Sad, Serbia

Posted: Wed 11 Jul, 2012 6:29 pm

I just finished unwrapping and bending/tying my recently grafted trees. Top portion has been bent (or lopped) on each rootstock to force the scion growth. Should I still shade them or go partial to full sun instead?

Best,
Igor
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Laaz
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Joined: 12 Nov 2005
Posts: 5642
Location: Dorchester County, South Carolina

Posted: Wed 11 Jul, 2012 6:35 pm

I always cut them a couple inches above the bud & put them in partial shade until they flush out.

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