Please help.

We have a small red valencia orange tree, that we planted 4 years ago. We have to move it. Any information on this would be helpful. We live in South Florida. Do these trees like shade or sun, what fertilizer, and any other suggestions.

Thank you, Luba

Hi Luba, welcome to the forum. I have not had much experience in moving citrus trees, but as with most trees it will help to prune some of the top to make up for the lost root support. Plant the tree at the same depth in a hole only slightly larger than the rootball. Do not put any fertilizer in the hole, but you can sprinkle a little around the drip line. Citrus trees are heavy feeders and should be fertilized once a month during the growing season using a fertilizer with trace minerals if possible.
In containers, citrus use fertilizer in the ratio of 5-1-3 (NPK) but that is not as important in ground.

citrus trees have shallow roots so you don't need to dig that deep, but depends if your soil is clayey or sandy or silty or anything in the mix. But normally for small trees, they shouldn't be any deeper than 3 ft.

Anyway, try to save as much roots as you can, and not to disturb as much as possible. Then remove 2/3 of the canopy. Move and then plant into the destination, water thoroughly, and place jute sack over the tree to shade it. Leave the jute sack for 2 weeks then replace with a lighter colored cloth, and leave for a week, and then finally take it off. This will gently condition your tree into the new location.

Benny is the expert at moving citrus trees here. He moved my Calamondin which is growing about 8 ft tall. He cut it back down to just under 4 ft, and moved the tree 157 miles away and planted in his yard. It is now growing beautifully and about 10 ft tall and always loaded with fruits.

Prepare the new site BEFORE planting, and you will eliminate headaches later on. Remove all weeds and rake the area clean. Roots should be moist before planting so soak them while you prepare the planting site. Dig the planting hole just wide and deep enough to accommodate the root system. Spread the roots out in the hole and set the plant higher than it grew before. Keep the bud union above soil level to avoid infection from the widely spread, soil born fungus that causes foot rot at the base or foot of the tree. Place a long board, or a rake or hoe over the center of the hole with each end extending over undisturbed soil. This helps determine proper planting depth by showing exactly where the soil line should be. Since the soil and tree are likely to settle, set the soil line of the tree several inches higher than the bottom of the board or hoe handle. Next, backfill around the tree to half-fill the hole and press the soil down to remove air pockets. Water the hole thoroughly and allow the soil to settle. Backfill, again to near the top of the hole, firm the soil around the tree and form a water basin that will hold 7 to 10 gallons of water. Slowly add more water. Fertilize lightly about 2-3 weeks after planting, but be careful to avoid burning the roots of the tree. The tree's canopy will need pruning to balance the amount of root loss during transplanting. Much of this information was taken from the booklet, "Florida Dooryard Citrus Guide." Welcome to the Citrus Growers Forum. - Millet

It is best to do the transplant during cold weather, like after Thanksgiving. Best is to use a shovel to cut the roots around the tree some months ahead of the transplant to reduce shock. If you must transplant in 90F+, cross your fingers and hope for the best.

Mr. Texas, cutting the roots a couple months before moving the tree is great advice, thank you. All of us forgot to mention that, glad you did. Cutting the roots at some distance from the trunk a couple of months before lifting the tree causes the roots still attached to the tree to form a multitude of new small roots and root hairs that will help sustain the tree after the actual move. Mr. Texas, great addition of information. - Millet

often the major problem is the spontaneity and instant gratification of decisions. when we want it move, it must be done yesterday, just ask my wife.

It's so true. When I want a plant move, I want it now.
I am that type that I want to complete the subject before I changed my mind . But that is the perfect way to do it to relieve some shock to the plant.
All of the above are very good advice.
You are in good hands here. Welcome.

Benny

I agree, I moved my peach tree 3 years ago (before the citrus bug hit) from next to my deck to make way for palm trees. I moved it to the front of my house (in haste) now it is getting too big and shading my lemons... I am thinking of moving it again before it gets too big. Should I cut the roots now in preparation for the move when the tree goes dormant?

You can look up root pruning. I've seen it done in FL, moving either a big tree or palm at Fairchild Botanical Garden. They dug a big trench around a tree, let it rest, and kept digging the trench toward the tree over time until they had a manageable size.
A friend of mine had a 75ft cannonball tree that he sold and the people were planning on moving it!