Thanks for all of the information!

I'll probably try out many different types and see what happens. I still have a long wait before I can put anything in the ground. Hopefully someone will create a new variety that can grow well here and produce good fruit. The speed on computers keeps doubling every 1 to 2 years so that should help!

Are Clementines easy to grow in a pot?

Yes, they can be maintained small. they have denser canopies and look pretty even potted. You regularly thin out the canopy, potted or not.

Has anyone tried any complex hybried crosses? Im in zone 6 or 5. well my county is spilt in the middle between zones. Anyway my average winter temperature is about in the teens, rarely do i get zeros "no zeros past 2 winters", i dont think i've ever seen a negative.

anyway im interested in possibly doing these crosses. I read here http://citrus.name/ various crosses Dr. Brown has been doing. Can anyone here comment on flavor or hardiness of crosses such as Poncirus * yuzu *clemintine.

What is a good tree to start with given my avg winter temp. is about 14-20 F? thanks

Are you planning on putting it in ground? How much protection are you able to provide. My sister's Owari Satsuma made it through 17 F with no protection--though I don't think it could go much lower. If you can cover the tree and provide some heat like Christmas lights, maybe you can get a satsuma through.

i was hopeing to grow a plant au naturale lol. Apparently the Kimbrough satsuma at http://mckenzie-farms.com/photo.htm can survive single digits for brief periods of time. And i want somthing that might survive single digits or even zero, the unlikely scenario that happens

unfortunately ill have to wait till later in the semester to get a job on campus. i blew my money on two paw paw trees and now im interested also in hardy citrus. I figure since my area has pretty mild winters for new england id give it a shot.

Ill prob give the ichang lemon, kimbrough satsuma or citrange a try. but id rather have something sweet than sour.

Christmass lights? thanks for the tip

A couple other things you can do to help-- try to select a spot that will give it some protection from the North wind. Plant on the south or west side of a stone, brick or block wall will retain heat and provide a slightly warmer micro climate. In the case of really hard freezes, you can add buckets or better yet a small kiddie pool of water under the tree--when water freezes it releases 80 cal/gram of water.

It is hard to equate calories to usable heat. How many calories are in a gallon of water? Is the formula 454 X 80 X 8.33 = 302,546? Because when one pound of water drops one degree it gives off one BTU. - Millet

That would be correct. I could get out my CRC conversion tables to give you the equivalent number of calories in BTUs, but based on your value of 1 BTU to heat or cool 1 pound of water 1 degree (is that C or F)-- then there must be 454 cal/BTU (if C) or 454 * 5/9 if F (because it takes 1 cal to heat or cool 1 gram of water 1 degree C).

1 calorie = 0.00396566683 btu
1 btu = 252.164401 calories

BTU is the US weirdest unit, that the Britons are no longer using this antiquated unit,

I'll have to deal with it, and it's fun. It postpones the onset of Alzheimer's.

I did all my work in calories, ergs and joules-- but most of that was 40 years ago--it is amazing how well I remember some of it. Now I think they are using an entirely different set of units, although I think the calorie is still used since it is based on the energy to raise 1 g of water 1 degree.

Then, if 1 calorie raises 1 gram of water 1 degree, and one gallon of water weights 3,782 grams (8.33-lbs.) then it must take 3,782 calories to raise one gallon of water 1 degree. Or conversely, when one gallon of water drops one degree it gives off 3,782 calories of heat (8.33 BTUs). Or 1 BTU equals 454 calories. - Millet

Lol, you guys and your formulas.

ill see what i can do...as for spring im getting two paws paws. those should be nice hardy, generally pest free plants.

I think Joe's numbers are right out of the book-- the difference is in the degree-- BTU is based on 1 degree F, calorie is based on 1 degree C. I should have specified 1 degree C, but in scientific work it is almost a given.

Take a look at this Chandler Pummelo tag from Lowes:


Ten degrees F for a pummelo seems way too optimistic doesn't it? Most references state mid 20's F cold tolerance for pummelos, though there doesn't seem to be much actual experience reported. I have heard of a Mato variety surviving a 20F freeze (from JoeReal), and Hirado is reportedly also very cold hardy. Anyone with other reports of pummelo cold tolerance?