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Darkman Citruholic
Joined: 20 Jul 2010 Posts: 968 Location: Pensacola Florida South of I-10 Zone 8b/9a
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Posted: Sun 28 Aug, 2011 12:32 am |
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I thinking of using Christmas lights on some of my citrus trees for cold protection. How many of what kind are most of you using. I'll use a PVC frame and wrap it with clear plastic first. I will soil bank too. _________________ Charles in Pensacola
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Kentucky Bourbon - It may not solve the problem but it helps to make it tolerable! |
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TRI Citruholic
Joined: 13 Jan 2010 Posts: 399 Location: Homestead, FL Zone 10
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Posted: Sun 28 Aug, 2011 9:34 pm |
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I use the C9 lights. This year I will also use some outdoor heat mats to increase the protection.
You should cover with frost cloth and then plastic. Make sure both the frost cloth and plastic touch the ground. For really severe freezes you are going to need huge number of C9 lights to protect large citrus plants. Small plants are much easier to protect because the volume of air under the covers is much smaller. For 1000 cubic feet you will need at least 200 C9 lights possibly much more depending on the outside air temperature. |
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Darkman Citruholic
Joined: 20 Jul 2010 Posts: 968 Location: Pensacola Florida South of I-10 Zone 8b/9a
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Posted: Mon 29 Aug, 2011 7:51 pm |
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Most all of mine will be around 100 cu feet. 4' x 4' x 6' tall. What is the benefit of the frost cloth? Is it for insulation or to keep the plant from touching the plastic? My lows should be no lower than +15F and realistically may not make it too +19F.
You must be protecting huge trees. 1000 cu feet = 10' x 10' x 10'. _________________ Charles in Pensacola
Life - Some assembly required, As is no warranty, Batteries not included, Instructions shipped separately and are frequently wrong!
Kentucky Bourbon - It may not solve the problem but it helps to make it tolerable! |
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viktor Citruholic
Joined: 16 Oct 2008 Posts: 73 Location: Pensacola,Fl
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Posted: Tue 30 Aug, 2011 12:21 am |
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Darkman,last winter I was practicing to use this method .I used housewrap and 1/2''electrical pipe.Work good at nighttime but too hot inside in the day time.Citrus began to grow and I lost few citrus trees.I am thinking that by day time need take off cover.I can't do this,because I am working by day.This winter I will not to use cover for my citrus.
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cristofre Citruholic
Joined: 09 Mar 2010 Posts: 200 Location: Clayton, Georgia USA zone 7B/8A
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Posted: Thu 01 Sep, 2011 4:49 pm |
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Darkman wrote: | I thinking of using Christmas lights on some of my citrus trees for cold protection. How many of what kind are most of you using. I'll use a PVC frame and wrap it with clear plastic first. I will soil bank too. |
I'm not using Christmas lights, I am using 40 watt incandescent bulbs in metal clamp reflector lamps, one per each of my 2 Satsuma Mandarin trees.
They are very close to each other so they are inside the same plastic enclosure during the winter.
I have both of the lamps plugged into a greenhouse thermostat which switches them on at around freezing, and turns them back off once the temperature warms up again.
The thermostat makes things more "hands off" or automatic, also it saves electricity. |
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cristofre Citruholic
Joined: 09 Mar 2010 Posts: 200 Location: Clayton, Georgia USA zone 7B/8A
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Posted: Thu 01 Sep, 2011 5:02 pm |
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viktor wrote: | Darkman,last winter I was practicing to use this method .I used housewrap and 1/2''electrical pipe.Work good at nighttime but too hot inside in the day time.Citrus began to grow and I lost few citrus trees.I am thinking that by day time need take off cover.I can't do this,because I am working by day.This winter I will not to use cover for my citrus. |
One thing I have done to prevent overheating my protected trees is to install automatic vents in my protection structure. These are normally used in basements or home crawlspaces.
Once the temperature reaches 70F / 21C, bi-metal strips inside the vents contract and cause the vents to open- no power necessary.
Example:
http://www.airvent.com/homeowner/products/foundation-auto.shtml
You could also try using a solar powered fan per covered tree. |
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Skeeter Moderator
Joined: 23 Jul 2006 Posts: 2218 Location: Pensacola, FL zone 9
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Posted: Sun 04 Sep, 2011 1:42 pm |
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I covered mine with a variety on materials, but I remove the cover when the front has passed. It does get warm inside the cover during the day--probably as high as the 80s with some of my brown tarps, but as long as the warm temps only last a few days it will not cause new growth.
I also use techniques that Joe posted a few yrs ago--buckets of water under the covers and I bank with bags of cheap composted cow manure. Two bags placed on either side of the trunk will protect pretty large trees and can be removed easily--I usually empty them around the tree in the spring. _________________ Skeet
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Darkman Citruholic
Joined: 20 Jul 2010 Posts: 968 Location: Pensacola Florida South of I-10 Zone 8b/9a
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Posted: Sat 10 Sep, 2011 11:27 pm |
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Thanks for the replies.
The bags of composted manure are number one on my protection list and will probably work well except on my meyer lemons which branch too low. For those I will most likely use a soil bank. Many of my trees being satsumas will handle a normal Winter ok. For the less tolerant I think I'll ue the tomato cages with some type of covering. The thermostats mentioned seem to be an economical solution too. I found them for $17.95 if you get three or more. They plug into your extension cord and have two outlets to carry 1600 watts. Temps are pre-set and unadjustable. On at 35* and off at 45*. As cristofre mentioned one possible solution to overheating may be greenhouse vents that automatically open and close. Victor that could help you. _________________ Charles in Pensacola
Life - Some assembly required, As is no warranty, Batteries not included, Instructions shipped separately and are frequently wrong!
Kentucky Bourbon - It may not solve the problem but it helps to make it tolerable! |
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TRI Citruholic
Joined: 13 Jan 2010 Posts: 399 Location: Homestead, FL Zone 10
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Posted: Sun 11 Sep, 2011 1:05 am |
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I have some huge citrus plants some 15 feet tall and too large to cover but can be protected with a soil bank. The smaller plants under 12 feet can easily be covered. It is wise to keep some reserve citrus plants to possibly replace those that may freeze.
Setting up the frame to hold the covers is the easy part. Getting the cover over the frame and plant is much more difficult. It can be really hard in strong wind conditions.
Growing citrus in colder climates has some advantages; ASP cannot survive hard winters to transmit citrus greening in the growing season. The downside is that freezes may damage your citrus plants. |
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Darkman Citruholic
Joined: 20 Jul 2010 Posts: 968 Location: Pensacola Florida South of I-10 Zone 8b/9a
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Posted: Sun 11 Sep, 2011 1:25 am |
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TRI,
You should be using the micro sprinklers. _________________ Charles in Pensacola
Life - Some assembly required, As is no warranty, Batteries not included, Instructions shipped separately and are frequently wrong!
Kentucky Bourbon - It may not solve the problem but it helps to make it tolerable! |
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TRI Citruholic
Joined: 13 Jan 2010 Posts: 399 Location: Homestead, FL Zone 10
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Posted: Sun 11 Sep, 2011 1:38 am |
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Darkman wrote: | TRI,
You should be using the micro sprinklers. |
I may be moving down to Homestead Florida in the next year so not sure if I will even be around to protect plants from freezes. Growing citrus has been fun but I want to grow other subtropical and tropical fruits such as mangoes and lychees. |
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