My satsuma 'shrub' is three years old and had fruit the first and third (last) years. It is about 4' tall and 4' diameter. Right now it has about three very long (3') shoots all coming off the main trunk, they all look just like the other branches. I think that I need to prune, I don't know what a 'water shoot' is and where should I cut these long shooting branches - they are all off the mid to upper part of the main trunk. Southest Texas, 40 deg overnight, 70 during day.

limey, can you post up photos? Let's make sure these shoots are not emanating from below the graft, and are actually rootstock. Water sprouts are fine, and if they add the the shape of your tree, you can simply prune them back to the canopy edge. They will settle down and become normal branches that produce.

Citrus pruning is mainly devoted to thinning and opening the canopy for light penetration as well as keeping the canopy low. During the first years, there is no need to cut vigorous sprouts, since research has shown that any cut to a young tree reduces root growth. This is due to the equilibrium between foliage and the root system. The ONLY pruning on young trees should be to eliminate the central leader branch. In some weak citrus varieties, such as limes, satsumas, etc. depending on the speed of tree growth, climate and cultural practices, a VERY selective canopy thinning may be carried out. When pruning a citrus tree, the choice of branches to eliminate is based on the concept that any space within the canopy must be covered by one and only one branch. It is never good to let surplus branches occupy the same aerial space. Anyway, thinning must not deplete any canopy sector. Vegetation free canopy spaces must be avoided since they reduce yield. Suckers should be kept if they occupy free spaces. After a few years they bear fruit, but all interior suckers must be cut. Generally pruning is done rarely or not at all. All branches growing from below the graft line are always eliminated. - Millet

Millet, here in California, under really optimal growing conditions, certain citrus cultivars are more prone to water shoots. Lemons, my Page mandarin hybrid, and certain oranges for example. I called up Dr. Lazaneo, who was the head of our San Diego County Extension office and Master Gardener Advisor (he started the San Diego County Master Gardener program I think back in 1963). He recommended for us to simply trim the water sprouts to the canopy line, which helps them to "calm down" and allow for additional canopy growth in other areas. Does this mesh with what you are also recommending? I have had lemon water sprouts grow as tall at 10 feet! We are in absolutely ideal lemon growing conditions here, and they can develop the biggest water sprouts I've ever seen.

Lemons are exceptionally aggressive and have the tendency to put off all those monster shoots. I don't think that there is much of a tree health issue at stake if you leave them on but I like to cut them back to about the canopy line as you said. It helps make sure to develop symmetrical canopy and if aesthetics are an issue in your situation I just think it looks a little nicer. Besides, lemons outgrow just about anything else so I am in favor keeping the shoots in check.

http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1455.pdf - Millet

I talked with Dr. Lazaneo about this concept of removing water sprouts as this U of AZ article recommends, and Dr. Lazaneo stated it wasn't necessary (thought had changed about water sprouts), unless it made for an unbalanced canopy, as the water sprouts will simply settle down, and become sturdy branches. And, to simply trim at the canopy edge if they continue to grow out of control. So far, the ones I've trimmed in this fashion have indeed settled down, and are becoming woody, as well as flowering now. Dr. Lazaneo stated that it wasn't necessary to trim them away as previously thought. Just sprouts emanating from the rootstock, or course. So, guess it is more an individual tree by tree decision, I think. If the water sprout helps the shape of the canopy, I left them stay. If they make for a crowded, unbalanced canopy, or are weakly attached, I do prune them away.

My shrub is pretty spindly, doesn't have a defineable 'canopy' . The branches of which I speak are not 'suckers', they leave the main trunk between the lower branches and the top. The shrub is like a wild hairdo ! About three branches have rocketed out in different directions like wild things. From what has been said, looks like I can just trim about 18" of each to bring them back into the fold.
The first year, a deer trod on a lower branch and split it away from the bole, had no fruit the next summer. Just removed 6 - 100' pine trees from around it, so it will get more water this year.