Hi

Did you notice if citrus chip-budding put much more time to come out that the other types of graft (T bud, ...) ?

Thanks,

Patrice

It has to do with the timing of budding. If you bud at the same time, I have not noticed any difference. Of course with chip budding, you bud them way earlier than T-budding, so that is why it seemed at eternity for them to sprout during colder temperature earlier in the season. You would T-bud later when the barks are slipping, by then the temperatures are warmer and so would seem to sprout much quicker.

Whenever I can T-bud, I don't chip bud. It is way faster. But when there is nothing to do during late winter and the first budwood cuttings from UCR has been shipped to me, I would do chip budding at that time.

Just for the heck of it, I tried T and chip budding side by side on the same tree when I can do both of them, they showed the same vigor using the same cultivar budded unto the same stock, also showed the same percentage success rate of take.

Thanks Joe for your answer

After a slow start using bark grafting on citrus, I am quickly becomming a fan of the method.

You don't need slipping bark.

You can use toothpick size budwood that would otherwise be unusable.

I have had pretty good success lately even with this heat wave-- almost all of my recent T-buds eventually failed-- (some looked good at 3 weeks).

I have used one modification of Joe's method on the very small wood-- I wrap the budwood with parafilm to just above the diagonal cut before insertion.

i love bark grafting the best for most trees. of course, this is because I am grafting mostly unto mature trees. but for seedling rootstocks, nothing beats budding to make a really nice mono-cultivar tree.