I've always thought that it would take a prunus species from America to solve the aweful nematode and armillaria rot problem of the southeast. I always thought that it would come from Prunus Americana but it seems that it came from Prunus Angustifolia. They almost got it perfect with they're seedling Prunus Persica rootstock named 'Guardian' but it didnt' have the armillaria resistance that 'Sharpe' has. 'Sharpe' also has the advantage of being more predictable because of it being a clonal rootstock and also ads the advantage of having vigor control. The question I have is will it be graft combatible with Japanese plums or apricots? I think this is what everyone has been waiting for. Now the big problem is finding someone who carries it.
http://www.ars.usda.gov/research/publications/publications.htm?SEQ_NO_115=228015

When and how do I graft or bud peach?
I have heard to chip bud in August. How about grafting and how about other times of year?

My grandmother just died. She had a peach tree that I grew up with. I wanted scion from the tree to save its line as I do not know if I will ever have access to the property again.

Last week I took a lot of dormant cuttings. I am trying to root some in my house (just as a temporary measure to save the wood). Others I cleansed with 10% bleach, treated with antifungal and put in the fridge for possible bud/grafting later. I have one established peach tree on my property I could graft/bud to. I also have many peach pits from a variety that is supposed to be heirloom and true-to-seed in the fridge for stratification right now. They could be used for rootstack later.

Any suggestions on how to propagate this tree I grew up with?

Kyle

Okay- no response to my previous question so I will retry.
How do I graft a peach? I have scion and rootstock. I have heard to summer bud but I am unsure if T or chip bud is best.
Also, where is the bud on peach? It does not look like it grows the same as citrus.
Do I use the green new wood with the leaves or from last years brown wood without leaves?

Kyle

T-budding method is usually used for bud grafting. Budding is done in late August in northern areas and in June in the South. They are usually grown by budding good peach varieties on peach, apricot, or plum seedlings. It is difficult to start peach cultivars from cuttings ordinarily, but some varieties root fairly well from softwood cuttings that have been treated with rotting chemicals and placed under a mist system. Even hardwood cutting are sometimes successful where the growing season is extra long. Do not plant a new peach tree near the spot where an old one was taken out, since many diseases that affect the roots of peaches are inclined to live on in the soil. Although peach seeds have a better record of producing worthwhile fruit trees than the seeds of most other fruits, peach and nectarine trees grown from seedlings do not reliably produce fruit similar to that of the parent. Peach seeds are usually stratified for 3 or 4 months before planting, but it is also possible to grow seedlings by planting the seeds immediately after separating them from the ripe fruit. The best of luck with your grandmothers tree.

Millet (1,287-)

I have grafted and budded citrus.
The technique does not bother me as much as choosing the bud.
Current years growth is soft and green while last years growth is hardwood. I believe I am to use current years green growth adjacent to a leaf. If I am incorrect someone let me know.
Anyone know if blind buds are an issue with peach?

Kyle

I have only done dormant grafting with deciduous trees (whip/tongue and cleft grafts--on apples, pears and persimmons). I have also done 4 flap banana grafts on pecan in spring when buds break using winter wood for scions.

I posed a question about summer grafting of deciduous trees earlier and Bonnie Childers said he does fall T-budding on peaches in Sept. He also fertilizes the stock about 6 weeks before grafting. He uses new growth for buds.